load for 1/2 ton pickup?

[CodyWayne718]

Load'em til the shackles break, well that's what I did anyway!

 

[jotul8e2]

"1]Braking should just be common sense… as you’ll rarely ever load wood up in a truck more than it can handle braking - I mean most half tons today can tow 5,000-to nearly 10k #. In a short bed heaped your probably looking at 3,000 or less for sure. Yeah you’ll need more distance for braking but it should be well within specs loaded or overloaded.
2]I agree entirely and if you plan on overloading a 1/2 t a lot, plan on getting a truck that was built for it (3/4, 1t etc). Half ton bearings and joints arent designed for the extra stress.
3]Again that should be common sense whether your overloaded, properly loaded, or just carrying your saw and axe in the back. Regardless of 1/2t or 1t. Any object in the back can be a projectile. Unless you have it all netted down, and attached to something a lot tougher than the factory tie downs, about the only other good protection against that is a headache rack. In my 150 I do at least have a few layers, the truck window, the cap window, and the boards I put over the window. On my 1 ton I built my own rack and there are 3 2x6’s across the back window with maybe an inch or so of space between them."

Good thoughts, but unfortunately there is nothing less common than common sense. You can easily load an 8' bed on a 1/2 ton pickup to well beyond its load limit with hardwood. Shortbeds, probably not. What a truck can tow and what it can carry are two entirely different things. A trailer has its own suspension, tires, and if of any size, brakes. The current typical Ford F150 has a load rating of maybe 3,000 lbs., but a 10 or 15 year old model may well be a third less. As for risking log launch, how many of us have been guilty of tossing on "just a few more" after the bed is level full, with no netting, headache rack, or anything? I can't be the only one.

I forgot all about tires, but they are another consideration, to be sure. If you think you are at or maybe beyond the design load capacity you can mitigate (not eliminate!) the risk of blowouts by keeping the speed down - way down. Like 45 mph. This keeps heat buildup to a minimum.

On a positive note, brakes have really gotten better this last 10 years or so. ABS is a powerful tool.

We all (and I am speaking sternly to myself here) need to realize the havoc we can wreak with a ton and a half of loose firewood gone out of control. These days I only haul wood on my own property and this thread has made me realize I have gotten careless. Should I need to go on the road with a load of wood I am going to have to really think about what I am doing.

 

[KarlP]

1]Braking should just be common sense... as you'll rarely ever load wood up in a truck more than it can handle braking - I mean most half tons today can tow 5,000-to nearly 10k #. In a short bed heaped your probably looking at 3,000 or less for sure. Yeah you'll need more distance for braking but it should be well within specs loaded or overloaded.

The current generation of trucks stops a LOT better than their ancestors. However, if you read the owners manuals midsize and 150/1500 series truck makers still say you must have trailer brakes if the trailer weighs more than 1500 or 2000lbs. Trailer brakes make a HUGE difference.

 

[MasterMech]

1]Braking should just be common sense... as you'll rarely ever load wood up in a truck more than it can handle braking - I mean most half tons today can tow 5,000-to nearly 10k #. In a short bed heaped your probably looking at 3,000 or less for sure. Yeah you'll need more distance for braking but it should be well within specs loaded or overloaded.

The current generation of trucks stops a LOT better than their ancestors. However, if you read the owners manuals midsize and 150/1500 series truck makers still say you must have trailer brakes if the trailer weighs more than 1500 or 2000lbs. Trailer brakes make a HUGE difference.

In NY (many other states?) It is required, if a trailer is rated to carry over 3000lbs it must have it own braking system. Take a look at your local TSC or Lowes/HD. Their trailers are all rated at 2999lbs GVWR despite having 3500lb rated axles under them. That avoids the cost of having to install electric brakes.

I've seen some scary tow rigs out there. Usually low-budget landscapers/lawn maint guys that bought a used trailer and never put a controller in the truck. I'm glad to see that HD 3/4 and 1 ton trucks now are coming with trailer wiring (7-Way) and brake controlers pre-installed as a factory tow package. IMHO this needs to be extended to 1/2 ton trucks too if it isn't spreading there already.

The whole "Drive Carefully" philosphy is great but doesn't take into account others who may run lights/stop signs or any other unexpected events.

 

[MarkinNC]

Its amazing what just a little 2" lift and some slightly bigger mudders can do.

I'll have to respectfully disagree with you on the mudders for snow. I have found them to be terrible compared to an all season radial or a mud and snow tire in the snow.

I use my truck as a truck and it is used off road collecting firewood. the terrain is pretty steep here in the mountains and I have to use 4WD a lot. I can't think of one situation ever where a lift would have helped me. Then there is the changes to the drive train geometry that do not make it stronger, though 2 inches should not be bad.

 

[timfromohio]

My f150 had neither 4wd or a lift but I can say that I'd envision a mild lift being very useful depending on snow depth - stock 4wd vehicles often don't have enough lift and just wind up pushing the snow from in front of the vehicle. I know you live in the NC mountains, but I can tell you that even around Boone or Asheville (I spent a total of 18 years living in NC) you don't get the snow that you can up here, especially the lake effect snow.

 

[OhioBurner©]

The current generation of trucks stops a LOT better than their ancestors. However, if you read the owners manuals midsize and 150/1500 series truck makers still say you must have trailer brakes if the trailer weighs more than 1500 or 2000lbs. Trailer brakes make a HUGE difference.

Yeah I didnt figure in that those tow ratings factor in having trailer brakes. And once you go back a couple of generations yeah the braking sucks on the older models.

I wasnt aware in NY there was a set limit for trailer w/o brakes regardless of tow vehicle. Been several years since I lived there. It doesnt surprise me though they are getting pretty out of control with all the rules there. After pulling various trailers with my F350, I'm not even concerned with trailer brakes at the 3,000# area, which I pull frequently. Now I do also pull that plus nearly a cord in the bed so the weight adds up, and I do want to put a bigger axle and brakes on it.

Good thoughts, but unfortunately there is nothing less common than common sense. You can easily load an 8' bed on a 1/2 ton pickup to well beyond its load limit with hardwood. Shortbeds, probably not. What a truck can tow and what it can carry are two entirely different things. A trailer has its own suspension, tires, and if of any size, brakes. The current typical Ford F150 has a load rating of maybe 3,000 lbs., but a 10 or 15 year old model may well be a third less. As for risking log launch, how many of us have been guilty of tossing on "just a few more" after the bed is level full, with no netting, headache rack, or anything? I can't be the only one.

Well your right about common sense lol. And my point about the payload vs towing rating pertains to trailers without brakes... it shouldnt matter much if the weight is on the trailer or on the truck as far as the brakes are concerned. If a truck can tow X amount of weight without extra trailer brakes, then it can haul the same weight in the truck (as long as it doesnt exceed the trucks payload capability). I'm just muddying up the waters though, shouldnt have mentioned it.

I'll have to respectfully disagree with you on the mudders for snow. I have found them to be terrible compared to an all season radial or a mud and snow tire in the snow.

I use my truck as a truck and it is used off road collecting firewood. the terrain is pretty steep here in the mountains and I have to use 4WD a lot. I can't think of one situation ever where a lift would have helped me. Then there is the changes to the drive train geometry that do not make it stronger, though 2 inches should not be bad.

Yeah 2" isnt a big deal but it has helped me plenty of times. In fact I've been beached or high centered or whatever you want to call it a few times even with the lift, bigger tires, and short wheelbase. Luckily my buddy was there to help and we always got it freed up. I imagine with a few less inches of clearance we would have been stuck for good but thats just a guess. I dont believe in jacking a truck way up.

About the only time I have found MY mudders to be worse than all terrains is on the road, so I also have to respectfully disagree. And I have taken AT's in snow up to the bumper several times so I do know they are good. And not just Ohio snow but northern NY snow. Now like I said on the road a good AT is better. I do have 2 complete sets of 4 tires, one set with the AT's and the other with the Kumho MTs. I think the specific pattern really makes a difference too. Most mudders have huge smooth lugs with no siping and big gaps. The ones I got have much smaller tightly spaced lugs more like an AT, and I have had them siped. I also have a set of super swamper TSL's on my 78 bronco and the Kumho's literally have over 2 lugs for every 1 of the super swamper. It also makes a difference what the terrain is. If its firm and light snow the AT might be better, if its sloppy or packy like it is here most the time the mudder has done be better. I can't seem to find a pic zoomed in of the tires but in this one you can see the lugs are smaller and closer than most, kind of like a hybrid mud/at tire:

 

[aansorge]

I haul about that much wood in a cheap 4 by 8 trailer with wood sides and pulled by a BMW 318i. But I drive sloooowwwww.

 

[MarkinNC]

The current generation of trucks stops a LOT better than their ancestors. However, if you read the owners manuals midsize and 150/1500 series truck makers still say you must have trailer brakes if the trailer weighs more than 1500 or 2000lbs. Trailer brakes make a HUGE difference.

Yeah I didnt figure in that those tow ratings factor in having trailer brakes. And once you go back a couple of generations yeah the braking sucks on the older models.

I wasnt aware in NY there was a set limit for trailer w/o brakes regardless of tow vehicle. Been several years since I lived there. It doesnt surprise me though they are getting pretty out of control with all the rules there. After pulling various trailers with my F350, I'm not even concerned with trailer brakes at the 3,000# area, which I pull frequently. Now I do also pull that plus nearly a cord in the bed so the weight adds up, and I do want to put a bigger axle and brakes on it.

Good thoughts, but unfortunately there is nothing less common than common sense. You can easily load an 8' bed on a 1/2 ton pickup to well beyond its load limit with hardwood. Shortbeds, probably not. What a truck can tow and what it can carry are two entirely different things. A trailer has its own suspension, tires, and if of any size, brakes. The current typical Ford F150 has a load rating of maybe 3,000 lbs., but a 10 or 15 year old model may well be a third less. As for risking log launch, how many of us have been guilty of tossing on "just a few more" after the bed is level full, with no netting, headache rack, or anything? I can't be the only one.

Well your right about common sense lol. And my point about the payload vs towing rating pertains to trailers without brakes... it shouldnt matter much if the weight is on the trailer or on the truck as far as the brakes are concerned. If a truck can tow X amount of weight without extra trailer brakes, then it can haul the same weight in the truck (as long as it doesnt exceed the trucks payload capability). I'm just muddying up the waters though, shouldnt have mentioned it.

I'll have to respectfully disagree with you on the mudders for snow. I have found them to be terrible compared to an all season radial or a mud and snow tire in the snow.

I use my truck as a truck and it is used off road collecting firewood. the terrain is pretty steep here in the mountains and I have to use 4WD a lot. I can't think of one situation ever where a lift would have helped me. Then there is the changes to the drive train geometry that do not make it stronger, though 2 inches should not be bad.

Yeah 2" isnt a big deal but it has helped me plenty of times. In fact I've been beached or high centered or whatever you want to call it a few times even with the lift, bigger tires, and short wheelbase. Luckily my buddy was there to help and we always got it freed up. I imagine with a few less inches of clearance we would have been stuck for good but thats just a guess. I dont believe in jacking a truck way up.

About the only time I have found MY mudders to be worse than all terrains is on the road, so I also have to respectfully disagree. And I have taken AT's in snow up to the bumper several times so I do know they are good. And not just Ohio snow but northern NY snow. Now like I said on the road a good AT is better. I do have 2 complete sets of 4 tires, one set with the AT's and the other with the Kumho MTs. I think the specific pattern really makes a difference too. Most mudders have huge smooth lugs with no siping and big gaps. The ones I got have much smaller tightly spaced lugs more like an AT, and I have had them siped. I also have a set of super swamper TSL's on my 78 bronco and the Kumho's literally have over 2 lugs for every 1 of the super swamper. It also makes a difference what the terrain is. If its firm and light snow the AT might be better, if its sloppy or packy like it is here most the time the mudder has done be better. I can't seem to find a pic zoomed in of the tires but in this one you can see the lugs are smaller and closer than most, kind of like a hybrid mud/at tire:

I was specifically referring to tire performance on the road. Those tires pictured are not what I had in mind when I read mudders. I was thinking of a wider tire. I talked to one of my tire guys not long ago and he was sent to a driving school on tires (I was considering a more aggressive tire for off road use but not what I would call a mudder). His position is that there is very little actual performance difference between most tires "off road." I can't validate that one way or the other.

 

[aussiedog3]

I work at a sand, gravel and stone supplier. See pickup trucks loaded all day long.
Thought truck companies should film their commercials at our site.
Nothing handles the weight like a Dodge. Way to go Danno.
I've seen 2.99 tons go out on an old half ton Dodge, barely squated.

 

[MofoG23]

I work at a sand, gravel and stone supplier. See pickup trucks loaded all day long.
Thought truck companies should film their commercials at our site.
Nothing handles the weight like a Dodge. Way to go Danno.
I've seen 2.99 tons go out on an old half ton Dodge, barely squated.

Make sure you take a peak at the rear axle, I'm sure most of those 1/2 tons that don't squat with 3 ton have something in addition to the leafs.... I think Danno runs Timbrens.

 

[OhioBurner©]

I work at a sand, gravel and stone supplier. See pickup trucks loaded all day long.
Thought truck companies should film their commercials at our site.
Nothing handles the weight like a Dodge. Way to go Danno.
I've seen 2.99 tons go out on an old half ton Dodge, barely squated.

If 6000# on a half ton dodge (or any other half ton) only barely squated it, its either because the truck was already sitting on the bump stops, or its got a way upgraded suspension. If your just reffering to the look of the back being lower than the front then my truck even sitting on the bump stops barely looks level as long as the weight was centered a little forward causing the front to go down as well.

I was specifically referring to tire performance on the road. Those tires pictured are not what I had in mind when I read mudders. I was thinking of a wider tire.

Yeah then you are correct, I can't really think of any situation on the road that mudders would be better. Well... maybe a few but I'm really fishing here. Yeah the ones I have are very mild for a mudder, and even though they were quite a bit larger than stock, it seems trucks now-a-days are comming with tires that big already. They are 285/75/16 and my stock was 255/70/16. I think we are going off on a tanget though...

 

[Dix]

1]Braking should just be common sense... as you'll rarely ever load wood up in a truck more than it can handle braking - I mean most half tons today can tow 5,000-to nearly 10k #. In a short bed heaped your probably looking at 3,000 or less for sure. Yeah you'll need more distance for braking but it should be well within specs loaded or overloaded.

The current generation of trucks stops a LOT better than their ancestors. However, if you read the owners manuals midsize and 150/1500 series truck makers still say you must have trailer brakes if the trailer weighs more than 1500 or 2000lbs. Trailer brakes make a HUGE difference.

In NY (many other states?) It is required, if a trailer is rated to carry over 3000lbs it must have it own braking system. Take a look at your local TSC or Lowes/HD. Their trailers are all rated at 2999lbs GVWR despite having 3500lb rated axles under them. That avoids the cost of having to install electric brakes.

I've seen some scary tow rigs out there. Usually low-budget landscapers/lawn maint guys that bought a used trailer and never put a controller in the truck. I'm glad to see that HD 3/4 and 1 ton trucks now are coming with trailer wiring (7-Way) and brake controlers pre-installed as a factory tow package. IMHO this needs to be extended to 1/2 ton trucks too if it isn't spreading there already.

The whole "Drive Carefully" philosphy is great but doesn't take into account others who may run lights/stop signs or any other unexpected events.

Yep, if you can't stop, you're in trouble. Better to be safe than sorry IMHO.

I have the integrated tow command in the F250 I love it. Plugs @ bumper and in the rhinolining, pulls the gooseneck like a dream. Once we get up to speed, I don't even know the trailer is back there.

 

[marreque]

if the bumper is touching the ground, or the front tires are off the ground, you have too much wood in the bed.
just throwing it out there