lightweight powerful saw

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wendell said:
I'd still vote for the 346XP but if you want to save some money, look on eBay for a Husky 350. There will still be one occasionally new and often lightly used. Heck, I'll sell you mine and I'll buy the the 346!

A word of caution on the Husky 350 if buying used would be to check the muffler bolts where they go into the cylinder housing. My uncle has one that we can't keep a muffler on. I looked into this online and found that it is apparently a common problem with this model. I have tried JB welding the bolt in place and it didn't stay. Next step will be heli coil, upsize bolt and retap or some sort of safety wire through the bolt head setup to keep it from rotating. I'm not sure which method we will use but I'm open to any other suggestions as well.
 
FixedGearFlyer said:
jippo said:
Well I selfishly spent more money then I should have and bought the 346xp. Wow! I love it. Very little vibration, easy on gas and cuts like crazy. I really like this saw. I got talked into a 20 inch bar and the first thing I noticed is my back isn't as sore after as I don't bend over as much for limbing. It has a roller tip which I have never had before. Only problem is I can't get the little cheapo greaser gun to work. Any suggestions?

I bought a 346xp a few weeks ago as well. It's phenomenal! Light, easy handling, lots of power, and great acceleration. Best saw I've every handled.

And the cheap, crappy grease gun they included was broken before I even opened the bag. :-) I have a small, metal grease gun like this one: Mini Grease Gun on Amazon.com. You should be able to find one at any hardware store or saw shop for about $12.00.

That said, after I had a bar nose sprocket issue on my first day with the new saw, I won't be greasing it, either. I blew it out with some compressed air and found that a few metal shavings had jammed it. Someone here suggested I soak the bar nose in bar/chain oil overnight, so I did. It's worked perfectly since then and it gets enough oil from the chain that it should run smooth for a long, long time.

In the past two weeks, it's had about 15 or 20 tanks run through it and has dropped and bucked 4 or 5 cords. After break-in and a carb adjustment, it absolutely screams!

Congrats!

That's good to hear I don't need to grease the roller tip, seems like a PITA anyway.

I can't wait till this weekend to go kill some trees with my new weapon.
 
jippo said:
That's good to hear I don't need to grease the roller tip, seems like a PITA anyway.

I can't wait till this weekend to go kill some trees with my new weapon.

Congrats, I think you made a great choice. Do be sure to grease the needle bearing every once in a while. Or at least lube it with bar oil. They don't get oil from the chain like the roller tip does & can fail if they get dry & hot. Only a $5 part though.
 
I looked at the MS260 today and really liked the weight. How well does it compare to the xp346? Is there a big difference in power or minor enough that it wouldn't be noticed? I wish I could see these two saws in action, but I don't know anyone who has either one and this is a lot of money to spend. I do want to use a 20" bar. The local dealer does have a 346 with a silver chain cover if that makes a difference.

The MS260 with 20" bar was $519 - 5% if paying with cash or check (2% with credit card).

Thanks.
 
There are quite a few youtube vids of 346 vs 260 that I think will change your mind. Granted a video on the the internet doesnt do a saw justice, you just need to feel the two. The two saws are virtually the same IMHO, the husky with a slightly higher RPM advantage and the Stihl with a slightly higher torque advantage. To each his own on that note. For me it was husky vs stihl and I wanted a saw that was lightweight and handled very well. I am NOT a stihlhead like most everyone around my neck of the woods so I went with the husky and couldnt be happier. And, the 346 handles like a dream! My next saw will definately be a husky, just bigger!
 
There are many satisfied 260 owners out there. My dad runs one that does everything he asks of it, and he is not one to baby his tools to put it mildly. I like the way it handles, though I haven't run it much (the younger guy does the splitting & loading...) Stihl is just coming out with the MS261 which is a re-designed strato version 50cc. So you may be able to bargain on the price of a new 260 right now! You won't notice having less power than a 346 if you never run one, lol. Or check out the new 261. I believe it is rated right at the same power as a 346.
 
If you can get a good deal on a 260, id say go for it!, For the price you were quoted, not a chance! Not with the 261 coming out...
 
Thinking about how much actual cutting time goes into a load of firewood, that is, time when chips are actually flying, not climbing around, moving down the tree, re-fuelling, sharpening.... I'm not sure how much a difference like that is really worth for a firewood guy. You can't deny the fun factor of a faster saw, but my guess is we'd be talking about a couple minutes per truckload difference tops. Chain-sharpening skills would make a bigger difference than that. Heck a good pee break would make up that time.
I guess what I mean is that either of those saws are pretty much the best tool that the average firewood cutter could own & I'd consider other factors more important in deciding between them since cutting speed which is great for both.
 
A second per cut--if you make 120 cuts/day, that's only two minutes. I suppose I would choose the best support, price, weight, and balance before speed in this situation. Although it's cool to have a hot rod!

S
 
thinkxingu said:
A second per cut--if you make 120 cuts/day, that's only two minutes. I suppose I would choose the best support, price, weight, and balance before speed in this situation. Although it's cool to have a hot rod!

I suppose that logic could carry on down to using small displacement saws for all your work. Here's a Stihl 180 doing a similar cut in 7 seconds. 120 cuts/day x 2 seconds is only 4 minutes more than the MS 260, but I don't think it would be anybody's first choice as a firewood saw:


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=blsnelling#p/u/272/VvzBFMDpy5Y[/youtube]


I hear you with the other qualities, support, etc. Both are pro saws, but the 346 has more HP, cuts faster, is cheaper (it can be had near here for $440), has lower vibration numbers, and has rave reviews for its handling qualities.

I came real close to getting one for myself, but I saved a ton of money by stepping down in size and going with "the little saw that could", the 42cc Dolmar 420. I'm sure it won't keep up with the two bigger saws mentioned, but it will be close in smaller wood, especially with a super easy muffler mod (just pull the muffler, drill out three spot welds, drop out the cat and put it back on the saw). This saw is a pound lighter in weight as well. Just another saw to consider if you aren't of the "go big or go home " mentality.



[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=blsnelling#p/u/249/bi8dW9ehzfQ[/youtube]


This guy did the woods port and muffler mod on this saw for the same shop I bought my saw from. Next time I go over there I'm gonna ask if I can give it a rip. Here it is after he did the mod:



[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=blsnelling#p/u/247/9Iawywd1-_4[/youtube]
 
I hate small saw's! lol But higher rpm's are key with a small saw.
 
Batten, the difference is that the 180 is not going to be comparable in bigger wood, which is presumed when considering a 'firewood' saw. Both those videos are with pecker poles. And I've always wondered if the 260's torquier engine would bridge the gap when burying a bar in hardwood. I know I'd rather tow with my 230 HP Frontier than a 237 HP Honda S2000.

S
 
midwestcoast said:
Thinking about how much actual cutting time goes into a load of firewood, that is, time when chips are actually flying, not climbing around, moving down the tree, re-fuelling, sharpening.... I'm not sure how much a difference like that is really worth for a firewood guy. You can't deny the fun factor of a faster saw, but my guess is we'd be talking about a couple minutes per truckload difference tops. Chain-sharpening skills would make a bigger difference than that. Heck a good pee break would make up that time.
I guess what I mean is that either of those saws are pretty much the best tool that the average firewood cutter could own & I'd consider other factors more important in deciding between them since cutting speed which is great for both.

I do agree with this to SOME extent. Its part of the reason I chose husky over stihl. This area is so flooded with die hard stihl junkies, guys that think stihl "owns" every other saw on the market in every class. Quite frankly it is simply BS. I chose to spend less money and have a better saw :)
 
mrfjsf said:
midwestcoast said:
Thinking about how much actual cutting time goes into a load of firewood, that is, time when chips are actually flying, not climbing around, moving down the tree, re-fuelling, sharpening.... I'm not sure how much a difference like that is really worth for a firewood guy. You can't deny the fun factor of a faster saw, but my guess is we'd be talking about a couple minutes per truckload difference tops. Chain-sharpening skills would make a bigger difference than that. Heck a good pee break would make up that time.
I guess what I mean is that either of those saws are pretty much the best tool that the average firewood cutter could own & I'd consider other factors more important in deciding between them since cutting speed which is great for both.

I do agree with this to SOME extent. Its part of the reason I chose husky over stihl. This area is so flooded with die hard stihl junkies, guys that think stihl "owns" every other saw on the market in every class. Quite frankly it is simply BS. I chose to spend less money and have a better saw :)
To each his own though...
 
thinkxingu said:
I know I'd rather tow with my 230 HP Frontier than a 237 HP Honda S2000.

I don't have the torque curves for the two saws, where do you get that information? I'd find it interesting to compare the two.
 
Are there even torque curves for saws? HA, I guess someone somewhere has a saw dyno. I have heard it said before though that the 260 and the 5100 feel like they have a bit more torque in the bigger wood & 346 is faster for smaller stuff.
 
Cursory numbers I remember:

Frontier: 230 HP, 246 lb-ft
Honda S2000: 237 HP, 153 lb-ft

S
 
If you want to get more torque out of the 346 just drop the sprocket 1 tooth. But I love my 2145 just the way it is with its muffler mod.

Thinkxingu

I was floored when I found out my 76 GMC 9500 with a DD 6-71 only had 238 hp. I thought it had like 500 hp the way it runs. I am loading it up with over 20,000 lbs of gravel and hauling it around off road. But it does have 650 ft lbs of torque.

Billy
 
Cowboy Billy said:
If you want to get more torque out of the 346 just drop the sprocket 1 tooth.

You can add a tooth to the 260 sprocket and bump up the chain speed and it will have less torque. But when I think of torque I usually think of it as being measured at the crankshaft, not at the wheel - as in how much turning force is being produced by the engine itself. Gearing up or down won't change the torque of the engine, nor will it affect the HP any more than changing the rear end of a car would do.
 
Well, I made my decision today and got the 346xp. I believe both the MS260 and 346xp are excellent saws and either one would last me a long time. So it came down to price for me, $419 for the 346xp vs $484 for the MS260. I haven't got to use it yet since it was dark with I got home, but I'm looking forward to giving it a workout this weekend.
 
$419?!? Holy #@!* If I was you I'd buy 100 and retire after selling them all on eBay. :wow:

Seriously, you just got away with robbing the bank!

I hope you love the saw as much as I love mine. (Of course, I would love mine even more if it only cost me $419!)
 
wendell said:
$419?!? Holy #@!* If I was you I'd buy 100 and retire after selling them all on eBay. :wow:

Seriously, you just got away with robbing the bank!

I hope you love the saw as much as I love mine. (Of course, I would love mine even more if it only cost me $419!)

That's what I thought. Funny thing is, I didn't even have to work to get that price. I just asked what's the lowest they'd take for the saw. The guy went over and talked to the owner and came back and said $419 was the lowest they could sell it. I didn't even hesitate. I was afraid they'd change their mind. :cheese:

By the way, their regular price was $475 for it.
 
Southland said:
wendell said:
$419?!? Holy #@!* If I was you I'd buy 100 and retire after selling them all on eBay. :wow:

Seriously, you just got away with robbing the bank!

I hope you love the saw as much as I love mine. (Of course, I would love mine even more if it only cost me $419!)

That's what I thought. Funny thing is, I didn't even have to work to get that price. I just asked what's the lowest they'd take for the saw. The guy went over and talked to the owner and came back and said $419 was the lowest they could sell it. I didn't even hesitate. I was afraid they'd change their mind. :cheese:

Its a gosh darn good thing you didnt hesitate! You just bought probably the best 50cc saw on the market for the lowest price ive seen to date! Congrats, you are gonna LOVE that thing, I promise! You will not be able to wipe the grin off your face after you get done slicing up some rounds.
 
Great deal on the saw Southland. I looked at a 346XP about two weeks ago when I was in my local saw shop. I think it was marked $489.00. Maybe I need to check out the place you went to. Are you in north alabama?
 
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