I assume the OP is referring to cast iron stoves that have been used a lot. If that's the case, it's absolutely true. Eventually the cement and castings will no longer be air tight.
So this sounds like it happens to all stoves. Which is what I was told years ago. It kind of sucks that you get 5 good years out of a stove and then it craps out. The manufacturers should make them easier to rebuild or maintain. Is there a stove out there that does not suffer from these issues, or is it just the natural course of things?
I'm confident just about all stoves soot up the glass on an overnight burn.
. . ..
according to LOPI, their boxes are stamped out of one piece of steel. And by its looks, I'd say so. There are no joints to be welded. I think I need to start a new thread on how to properly moniter the temperature of the stove. What's the best way?Sorry, it appears that you have a steel stove and the joints should be welded. Nothing at all like a cast iron stove, where sections are bolted together. No, you should not have problems after 5 yrs unless the stove has been abused but as mentioned, sometimes interior sections on poorly designed stoves will disintegrate or warp. My problem was after 30 yrs. of steady 3 season use, plus I aim for much higher temps than many on this forum use, so quite different. Very similar symptoms though so I would have someone check it if you can't find the problem yourself. It should last much longer.
When you say it's reaching 700 on the top, where exactly and how are you monitoring the temp? What kind of thermometer? Where is it placed?Reading this, I am wondering whether your insert is finally operating as it should be. I say that because:
- I don't have dirty glass in the morning,
- my insert throws a lot of heat,
- three logs would never last me through the night,
- and I never have unburnt wood in my stove the next morning.
Has your wood always been split and stacked for three years before burning? Do you have a stove thermometer to see if it really runs "too hot"?
Modern (secondary burn) stoves/inserts inject pre-heated air into the top of the firebox to burn up all the volatile gases and unburnt particles coming from the wood. They do that to reduce smoke emissions which contributes to respiratory diseases and air pollution, to increase the efficiency of the stove from 40% of old-style "smokedragons" to 75%, and to reduce the risk of creosote accumulation in the chimney that can lead to a chimney fire. With closing the air control I see secondary flames in the top of firebox which tells me I burn efficiently and cleanly. My insert often reaches 700 F on the top without ill effects and heats my home nicely.
Never checked the glass gasket. I am assuming the glass has its own gasket. Thanks for the tip. I missed that in the manual. I'll check it for leaks. Thanks again.Have you had it looked at by a pro? It is not normal other than gaskets for a stove to be that leaky that soon. Did you check the glass gasket?
Absolutely not true most newer stoves do not soot the glass badly
It's impossible to stamp a box with that size and thickness out of one piece of steel without using welds. I used to work in a press room in a former life. Quarter plate is an sob to work with.according to LOPI, their boxes are stamped out of one piece of steel. And by its looks, I'd say so. There are no joints to be welded. I think I need to start a new thread on how to properly moniter the temperature of the stove. What's the best way?
No cat on this stove.Isn't there restriction flowing through the cat v. around it?
Yes, I added a link to lopi in a previous post.Lopi makes steal stoves, no?
When you say it's reaching 700 on the top, where exactly and how are you monitoring the temp? What kind of thermometer? Where is it placed?
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