You know, now that I think about it, maybe they didn't (weren't supposed to) lock. I know we used the clamps on every section. Maybe Corie can weight in if he remembers.
Leaking Selkirk Super Pro chimney
- Thread starter JohnCusick
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
Sorry, didn't mean the duh like that.... They are supposed to lock. Locking bands are only required on the horizontal pieces, I guess gravity holds the vertical sections together. I just meant locking bands are cheap and houses are not, so I ain't taking any chances.
Hey John C,
Let me put my two cents in before you go up to your roof again. I've installed lots of selkirk chimney systems, and never had much problem with the locking tabs, but every now and then, they can be a pain. I've only had a selkirk chimney leak a few times, just like you're saying, and here is what Ive learned and I think you may very well find the same problem:
Look at the chimney pipe as it passes thru the storm collar, it may look VERY well sealed, but go around to the side where the seam is. If the sealant does not go DEEP into the seam, water can chase that seam all the way past the storm collar, and it will be virtually invisible until it hits the next section down, which will cause it to come out and be visible again. I usually seal the storm collar and then go up the seam 6" or so and then force some to go into the seam to be sure. I am 99% sure that if your leak is ON the pipe, thats where it will be. Here is a rough diagram
Let me put my two cents in before you go up to your roof again. I've installed lots of selkirk chimney systems, and never had much problem with the locking tabs, but every now and then, they can be a pain. I've only had a selkirk chimney leak a few times, just like you're saying, and here is what Ive learned and I think you may very well find the same problem:
Look at the chimney pipe as it passes thru the storm collar, it may look VERY well sealed, but go around to the side where the seam is. If the sealant does not go DEEP into the seam, water can chase that seam all the way past the storm collar, and it will be virtually invisible until it hits the next section down, which will cause it to come out and be visible again. I usually seal the storm collar and then go up the seam 6" or so and then force some to go into the seam to be sure. I am 99% sure that if your leak is ON the pipe, thats where it will be. Here is a rough diagram
The prior post idea of sealing the seam solved my problem, which plagued me for 16 years. Hard, driving rains always produced water coming down around the ceiling adapter. I tried everything I could think of, then from an earlier post on this problem got some silicon and sealed the seams from top of chimney to the storm collar. Leaks were over, ceiling has survived the numerous water intrusions, and peace on earth was achieved.
Thanks for all the insights folks. I took pictures but haven't had a chance...
Corey - I'll check that tomorrow evening when I next get a chance ot go up on the roof.
I think I got it covered as I put a continuous bead of Geocel on the pipe at the point I wanted the storm collar to rest BEFORE I put the collar in place. Then I slid the collar down from above, snugged it up and tuned up the joint. But I double check.
Corey - I'll check that tomorrow evening when I next get a chance ot go up on the roof.
I think I got it covered as I put a continuous bead of Geocel on the pipe at the point I wanted the storm collar to rest BEFORE I put the collar in place. Then I slid the collar down from above, snugged it up and tuned up the joint. But I double check.
I have the Simpson class A chimney pipe, and in the manual that came with it, it specifically stated to put a bead of sealant along that same seam from above the storm collar all the way to the chimney cap.
I've never had a leaking issue with mine (mine do lock, and you can't pull them apart however). If you don't have any sealant on your seam, it would be an inexpensive and simple test to apply some to yours.
Best of luck.
I've never had a leaking issue with mine (mine do lock, and you can't pull them apart however). If you don't have any sealant on your seam, it would be an inexpensive and simple test to apply some to yours.
Best of luck.
Sure appreciate all the advice in this thread. Had my leaking moment tonight with hard rain and 50 mph gusts. Mine is also the Selkirk pipe and when I looked in the attic, I could tell exactly what you guys are talking about. Will seal it up with some good silicone in the near future. Thanks again, I can sleep tonight.
Thanks guys, that sounds like what we need too! Water was almost pouring in the other night, we had heavy rain and 50 mph winds. I'm glad someone revived this old thread.
Ken
Ken
This is interesting. I have a selkirk set-up and also had water leaking from adapter. I thought it was my chimney cover. I caulked it up real good but still had the leak. This will be the first thing I do when I get home. Thanks
I had a leak just after my installation as well, though the Class A was made by Hart & Cooley. The water was running down a seam on the last section of Class A, collecting in the ceiling support box, then leaking onto the stove. The installer did not originally run a bead all the way up the seam, and water was traveling behind the caulk. Additional caulk up the seam solved the problem.
Kenn said:
I installed Selkirk stovepipe back some 25 yr. ago in our house. It was sold as Metalbestos then. I had a catalogue of their chimney/stovepipe stuff and it said to put a locking band on each connection between two pc. of pipe. Even the vertical parts. I am glad I did, as I had to get up on the roof once, a couple years after the install, to do something or another. It was windy, and I noticed that the section of pipe above the guy-wires and the band I made for them to connect to was vibrating back and forth as the wind blew it. I reached up and pushed on it, and the sections had come somewhat unscrewed. The locking band prevented them from coming completely disconnected, but I loosened the bands along the pipe, tightened the stovepipe sections back together, and retightened the locking bands. We do get high winds here, with lots of gusts, but I never expected it to cause the pipe sections to loosen.
So, I would definitely put a band on each connection, period.
I have a twist to throw in.... Mine "Selkirk" only leaks when I have a fire and it rains. We have had a lot of rain this early spring and summer and not a drop of water. The only place I can see any water is at the ceiling adaptor. I have got in the attic during one of these events and it is dry! I WILL look at the seam the next time it happens.
Stay tuned...................
Stay tuned...................
runandjump said:
It could be the wind direction when it rains. Winter storms often come from different directions than summer storms.
We have the same situation here. I suspect it is dependent on which direction the seam is compared to the rain.
Ken
- Status
Similar threads
