Well, it's probably an exercise in futility, but I got after it again today. I followed the internet advice of tapping the lugs, and by God, it worked!! It was still a flat-by-flat war for the first 3-4 revolutions, but out they came.
It wasn't leaking at the seam, but had a hairline crack near a standoff. The gas was wicking around via the seam and making it look like the seam was leaking.
I used a soldering iron to smooth over the cracks, but figured out the tank was getting thin, and I needed some donor material. I was able to melt off some of the flange that must be to catch gas in overpours from hitting the engine, and apply that to add material.
The tank passed a static leak test pretty quickly. Then I balanced some water in the flange, covered the gas outlet and blew in the top. Saw two patches of tiny bubbles. Had to hit the tank three more times before they got so small I no longer cared if I fixed them or not!! Glad this isn't my day job!!
The naked stud.
This is a socket that fit over the top to protect the threads for a few taps.
Here's the hairline crack. And it was in the exact same place as a video I found detailing this same repair. That guy used JB Weld but never reported back if it lasted.
The 99.8% repaired tank.
This is where I got the donor material.
Anyway, it's lame that the tank cracked, the studs were Loctite'd in place, and the replacement tank is $70. There's a similar tank for sale as low as $27, but that one is not this one. Of course it won't last, but now I know the game I'm in. It's so annoying that whoever made the decision to make a worse product is buying a 50' yacht, and I'll be doggoned if I'm going to help him pay for it!!
It wasn't leaking at the seam, but had a hairline crack near a standoff. The gas was wicking around via the seam and making it look like the seam was leaking.
I used a soldering iron to smooth over the cracks, but figured out the tank was getting thin, and I needed some donor material. I was able to melt off some of the flange that must be to catch gas in overpours from hitting the engine, and apply that to add material.
The tank passed a static leak test pretty quickly. Then I balanced some water in the flange, covered the gas outlet and blew in the top. Saw two patches of tiny bubbles. Had to hit the tank three more times before they got so small I no longer cared if I fixed them or not!! Glad this isn't my day job!!
The naked stud.
This is a socket that fit over the top to protect the threads for a few taps.
Here's the hairline crack. And it was in the exact same place as a video I found detailing this same repair. That guy used JB Weld but never reported back if it lasted.
The 99.8% repaired tank.
This is where I got the donor material.
Anyway, it's lame that the tank cracked, the studs were Loctite'd in place, and the replacement tank is $70. There's a similar tank for sale as low as $27, but that one is not this one. Of course it won't last, but now I know the game I'm in. It's so annoying that whoever made the decision to make a worse product is buying a 50' yacht, and I'll be doggoned if I'm going to help him pay for it!!