Just Purchased My First Saw

[TreePointer]

This is exactly where I was leaning. I wasn't going to do any actual cutting without PPE. I just wanted to start the darn thing and warm it up and then recheck the tension. Manual said a new saw will need tightening more often until broken in.

Found this on Amazon. Thoughts?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FR0E1E...TF8&colid=2QBKRHG8FXGWD&coliid=I2N6TY0H18XTM5

I'm partial to (broken link removed to http://www.labonville.com/Full-Wrap-Chainsaw-Safety-Chaps-Parts-_c_80.html). They are very well constructed, made in USA, and don't break the bank.

Safety glasses = Harbor Freight Impact Resistant Safety Glasses. Inexpensive, work great.

Forestry helmet is nice to have. Check for highest NRR on the earmuffs. I prefer the metal mesh shield over the clear shield, and I wear the safety glasses underneath.

If you are not felling and you just want muffs, I really like the 3M Peltor H10A Optime 105 Earmuff. Very comfortable with 30db NRR. Amazon, Lowes, Sears and other places have them on sale from time to time.

 

[Gpsfool]

For drying storing wood this can't get easier and works well for me. ~$45 in materials and can store when full ~4 face cords. For me it's worth it as pallets never hold up, etc.

Materials
Five 8x8x16 cinder blocks
Four 2x4x8 pressure treated planks
Four 8 foot pressure treated landscape timbers

The four 2x4's across the bottom - makes the rack 16 feet long - nicely off the ground. The four landscape timbers propped out the holes in the cinder blocks on, two on each end. Cover the top of the wood with plastic and/or tarp material.

Three of these racks and I have 2 years worth of wood.

The one you see below is now full and I have started a second.

Someday I may build a shed - but that's not happening for $45.

I second the chaps - good protection.




GPSFOOL

 

[Ashful]

It's not a good sign that my Stihl saw manual tells the user how to clear a flooded saw. That suggests that the problem is relatively common.
!

I have only flooded my 064 ONCE in three years, and that was on an exceptionally cold day when it just didn't blurp. The 036 has never flooded on me. Flooding a properly tuned Stihl is operator error, not a problem with the saw design.

The OP's saw may have a legitimate problem. It was never fired, not even at the store. It might be flooded, but there may be another issue, as well.

 

[ChadD]

Get some Labonville chaps and a Husqvarna!

 

[BlackGreyhounds]

I'm partial to (broken link removed to http://www.labonville.com/Full-Wrap-Chainsaw-Safety-Chaps-Parts-_c_80.html). They are very well constructed, made in USA, and don't break the bank.

Safety glasses = Harbor Freight Impact Resistant Safety Glasses. Inexpensive, work great.

Forestry helmet is nice to have. Check for highest NRR on the earmuffs. I prefer the metal mesh shield over the clear shield, and I wear the safety glasses underneath.

If you are not felling and you just want muffs, I really like the 3M Peltor H10A Optime 105 Earmuff. Very comfortable with 30db NRR. Amazon, Lowes, Sears and other places have them on sale from time to time.

.

Bailey's running a very good deal on the Labonville Full Wraps http://www.baileysonline.com/Safety...abonville-Full-Wrap-Chainsaw-Safety-Chaps.axd
I'm sure you could find a helmet with ear muffs and face shield and gloves there too and save on the shipping.

 

[MacinJosh]

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/stacking-on-pallets.142355/ heres a link to a current discussion on the use of pallets. I use them and think they are great, stable and better than dunage. I top cover with tarps but rubber roofing, tin etc can be used.

Edit: there are lots of discussions on whether to top cover but I think it comes down to where you live and how much snow you get. I have to top cover as we get frequent thunder storms in the summer and lots of snow in the winter.

Thanks Sean. I'm in Kentucky so we get plenty of rain and snow. I'll likely need some sort of covering.

By the way, cute pup in your avatar. Your dog?

Here's mine. Her name is Kineye.

 

[MacinJosh]

I'd say most serious burners, at least those here, eventually end up building a wood shed: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/show-us-yours-wood-shed.88203/

Those are fantastic!! Wow!

Looks like I got my work cut out for me. Some great ideas in there! [emoji122]

 

[drz1050]

Were you able to make it to the dealer today?

 

[MacinJosh]

Don't you just love it?? I got used to similar hassles with my MS250, until I learned how to properly start the saw. I was also flooding the thing, which was very easy to do.

I'd recommend that you try the following:
With an un-flooded cold saw, engage the choke fully. Engage the chain brake.
While standing with your right foot inside the handle, holding it to the ground, pull the starter cord 3 or 4 times. NO MORE. If you hear a "pop" as if it's trying to start, that's fine. If you don't, that's fine too.
Flip the choke to half choke position.
Pull the starter cord until it starts. This may take 1-6 pulls.
Once the saw starts, flip the throttle/choke to the run position, disengage the chain brake.

None of the above will work if your saw is already flooded. It's not a good sign that my Stihl saw manual tells the user how to clear a flooded saw. That suggests that the problem is relatively common.

Once you get it up & running, I'm sure you'll enjoy your new saw. Try not to get too awful frustrated in the meantime!

Great advice! And in fact, I had unknowingly SERIOUSLY flooded it by pulling too many times in full choke. I SWEAR the instructions never headed this warning. But by God there were 836,493 other warnings I read! HA!

So the local shop pulled the plug and turned it upside down why pulling the cord over and over (swear I did the same thing). He repairs chain saws there so he gave me a real nice demo. He got it started and I brought it home and have fired it up twice, once cold, since and it's working great!

Now I need to purchase my PPE and maybe I'll get to start cutting this weekend.

Thanks again for all the help guys! Y'all are SUPER fast responding! [emoji106][emoji4]

 

[MacinJosh]

If you have the space I would agree, wood sheds are the way to go. On my .14 acre lot between the attached garage, garden shed, 14 x 14 dog kennel (which doubles as wood storage), garden and trampoline, the fence line is all I have. That and Im pretty sure I would exceed my maximum lot coverage.

I have 5 acres of dense woods and about 1 acre of clearing/mowing behind the house. TONS of room for a shed. My neighbor has 7 acres and my other has 2 and they already begged me to take all the wood I need.

I feel like Jaws....."I'm gonna need a bigger boat (shed)" hehe

 

[MacinJosh]

I'm partial to (broken link removed to http://www.labonville.com/Full-Wrap-Chainsaw-Safety-Chaps-Parts-_c_80.html). They are very well constructed, made in USA, and don't break the bank.

Safety glasses = Harbor Freight Impact Resistant Safety Glasses. Inexpensive, work great.

Forestry helmet is nice to have. Check for highest NRR on the earmuffs. I prefer the metal mesh shield over the clear shield, and I wear the safety glasses underneath.

If you are not felling and you just want muffs, I really like the 3M Peltor H10A Optime 105 Earmuff. Very comfortable with 30db NRR. Amazon, Lowes, Sears and other places have them on sale from time to time.

Great tips and links! Thanks!

I guess I was looking for a one stop shop type deal instead of a la carte. I did price at my local shop today and they seem a little high. Not bad though.

Don't plan on felling until I feel comfortable with the saw and watch several how-to videos. Will likely have my friend Doug drive up to show me as well. He cuts constantly and burns about 5-6 chords a winter in his stove.

PS, I'm trying to get him on here. He's in one of my bourbon forums so I know he knows his way around these things.

 

[MacinJosh]

For drying storing wood this can't get easier and works well for me. ~$45 in materials and can store when full ~4 face cords. For me it's worth it as pallets never hold up, etc.

Materials
Five 8x8x16 cinder blocks
Four 2x4x8 pressure treated planks
Four 8 foot pressure treated landscape timbers

The four 2x4's across the bottom - makes the rack 16 feet long - nicely off the ground. The four landscape timbers propped out the holes in the cinder blocks on, two on each end. Cover the top of the wood with plastic and/or tarp material.

Three of these racks and I have 2 years worth of wood.

The one you see below is now full and I have started a second.

Someday I may build a shed - but that's not happening for $45.

I second the chaps - good protection.


View attachment 155908

GPSFOOL

Oh hell! I'm liking this as a quick, cheap solution so I can get to cutting and stacking and drying soon since I don't even have a stove installed yet. [emoji106]

 

[MacinJosh]

.

Bailey's running a very good deal on the Labonville Full Wraps http://www.baileysonline.com/Safety...abonville-Full-Wrap-Chainsaw-Safety-Chaps.axd
I'm sure you could find a helmet with ear muffs and face shield and gloves there too and save on the shipping.

I'll look into this. Thanks!

Sounds like the majority of you guys aren't feeling the Amazon deal, eh?

If I'm not felling, I don't need a helmet? I guess I'm just worried about kickback right to the face. Sorry, dumb question but again, I'm new.

 

[MacinJosh]

Were you able to make it to the dealer today?

Yup. I summarized what happened above.

Running great now! Thanks!

 

[BlackGreyhounds]

I'll look into this. Thanks!

Sounds like the majority of you guys aren't feeling the Amazon deal, eh?

If I'm not felling, I don't need a helmet? I guess I'm just worried about kickback right to the face. Sorry, dumb question but again, I'm new.

I think you can easily do way better than the Amazon offer you listed. You should be able to get good full-wrap chaps and ear muffs for around $100-$120 or better yet, Full wrap chaps and a helmet with ear muff and face screen should be about $120-150. Trust me, the face shield is great to keep your face from getting smacked by the inevitable small switches you will be working around and a helmet with ear muffs is only a couple $'s more that just ear muff that you can't use with a separate helmet. So, what I'm saying is: Get Full-Wrap Chaps and a helmet with ear muffs and face screen at the best price you can. Safety glasses are essentially a disposable item, so get several pair of the cheapest ones that are still comfortable. Remember that the face screen is essential, but you still need the glasses. (This comes from someone who's entire career and income comes from my vision).

For what it's worth, you can get Labonville full-wrap chaps ($71.79 +9.99 shipping) and a Elvex CU60RV ProGuard 6 Point Ratchet Suspension Vented Helmet System - See more at: http://www.baileysonline.com/Safety...Point-Ratchet-Suspension-Vented-Helmet-System. for $39.99. That's $121.77. I consider gloves and glasses disposable items. I buy them in bulk,trying to get the the cheapest yet comfortable option possible.

P.S. I really like the Rockman helmet system. It's a little more than the Elvex.

 

[MacinJosh]

Great stuff! Thanks! Sounds like Labonville full chaps are a slam dunk with y'all here. Now it just comes down to a helmet with ear muffs and a face screen. I like the looks of that combo.

I can see where gloves and glasses would be disposable. I'm not super close to a Lowes so Amazon Prime and I are good friends. I can certainly make a trip though. Was thinking about getting an ax too and try to split some logs the old fashioned way until I save up for a log splitter.

So.......ax suggestions? Splitting mauls? Sledge Hammers?

I should rename this thread "Help Josh Get Started" haha.

 

[Ashful]

If I'm not felling, I don't need a helmet? I guess I'm just worried about kickback right to the face. Sorry, dumb question but again, I'm new.

I'm not going to tell you what you should do, I'll just say what I do. I only don the helmet when I'm felling. It's more for protecting me from falling branches, which cause the vast majority of felling injuries, NOT from kickback. Any pro feller will tell you, feel the saw, watch the overhead branches... not the other way around.

Your best protection against kickback is:

1. Mind the kickback zone. It's caused when the upper quarter of the nose comes into contact with something.
2. Proper grip: locked left elbow.
3. Proper stance: Saw is not held with bar point straight out away from you, but angled toward your left. Any violent kickback will send bar past your head to the right, rather than into your head.

Kickback is something worth discussing, as the penalty is severe, but it is not something that happens very often with standard bars and good technique. The few times I have experienced violent kickback have all been when bucking downed trees, and internal stresses cause the nose or top of the bar to pinch when running full rev's in a cut. In those cases, the bar rarely comes free of the kerf, but you do get a bit of a jolt from an 85cc saw at full rev's.

 

[TreePointer]

Great tips and links! Thanks!

I guess I was looking for a one stop shop type deal instead of a la carte. I did price at my local shop today and they seem a little high. Not bad though.

Don't plan on felling until I feel comfortable with the saw and watch several how-to videos. Will likely have my friend Doug drive up to show me as well. He cuts constantly and burns about 5-6 chords a winter in his stove.

PS, I'm trying to get him on here. He's in one of my bourbon forums so I know he knows his way around these things.

I have personal preferences, but any chaps/PPE are certainly better than none. Some folks wear a helmet or complete forestry helmet every time they're cutting--nothing wrong with that.

Bourbon forums?! I was guessing you were a man of quality and taste, but that confirms it.

 

[Ashful]

So.......ax suggestions? Splitting mauls? Sledge Hammers?

The most recommended hand splitting implement on this forum is the Fiskars X25 (or the X27 for taller folk), by a very long margin. Many of us have a favorite maul of one brand or another, that's not an X25, but there it is. Others spend 4x more than the Fiskars for hand-crafted implements, which is fun, but an unjustified expense.

Joful... sipping on a glass of 1792 Ridgemont right now.

 

[MacinJosh]

I have personal preferences, but any chaps/PPE are certainly better than none.

Bourbon forums?! I was guessing you were a man of quality and taste, but that confirms it.

Well I do live in Kentucky outside of Louisville.

And yeah, StraightBourbon.com is an excellent forum if you are a fan of the water of life. I'm MacinJosh on there as well. Cheers!

 

[MacinJosh]

The most recommended hand splitting implement on this forum is the Fiskars X25 (or the X27 for taller folk), by a very long margin. Many of us have a favorite maul of one brand or another, that's not an X25, but there it is. Others spend 4x more than the Fiskars for hand-crafted implements, which is fun, but an unjustified expense.

Joful... sipping on a glass of 1792 Ridgemont right now.

Outstanding! Was hoping someone would come along and say "_____ is the hands down most recommend one so do yourself a favor and get one." Thanks!

And 1792 is a solid pour from Barton right here in Bardstown. [emoji106]

 

[BrotherBart]

I can't get my X27 to start.

 

[BrotherBart]

Here's mine. Her name is Kineye.

I have a motion detector on the front door for when the little Woodpile Panther cat wants in. The thing went crazy yesterday and I opened the door and one of those suckers was looking me in the face. Trying to run it off it kept wanting to lick me to death.

Took an hour to find my cat. And her head was on swivel all day looking out for it coming back.

 

[TreePointer]

+1 on the Fiskars X27.

Still won't split? Try an 8 lb maul, wedge & sledge, or chainsaw "noodling." For me, if the X27 doesn't split it, it usually gets noodled.

 

[MacinJosh]

Ok, now you have me watching YouTube videos on the Fiskars.

This tire idea is brilliant! (And yes, I'm guessing y'all are already quite aware of that technique or even use it, ha!)

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