Just picked up this beauty and need suggestions

[begreen]

Sorry to bring up another problem, but is the flue pipe being reduced in size? It looks like it is being choked down from 8 to 6". That is not supposed to be done. It should be 8" all the way.

When running this stove you are going to need to watch creosote buildup carefully. I would clean the chimney after every cord of wood burned.

 

[Dustin M]

I called and spoke with my local building inspector. I explained what I had and how I had it hooked up .
He told me there isn't a local code for a fire damper, and that the only legal way I can have it tied into my supply duct , is to have a CO DETECTOR inside the supply and have it wired to shut the blower down.

He recomened, from experience he said, was to have a shroud or suspended return and have that suck the radiant heat into the return.
And I wouldn't legally need a CO detector wired into the duct .

also he said on clearance was a minimum of 12" all the way around from any combustible .

 

[Dustin M]

Sorry to bring up another problem, but is the flue pipe being reduced in size? It looks like it is being choked down from 8 to 6". That is not supposed to be done. It should be 8" all the way.

When running this stove you are going to need to watch creosote buildup carefully. I would clean the chimney after every cord of wood burned.

Yes it is reduced, my chimney has a steel 6" ring in it.
I don't know another way to not reduce the flue, unless I welded a 6" steel ring inside the 8" opening to reduce it??

I had the chimney cleaned before I installed this. And I will inspect every two weeks and clean as necessary.
My chimney is 20' tall.

 

[bobdog2o02]

An in duct CO is not all that hard.... Or expensive. Can run on the same 24v ac as your HVAC and has the relay needed for shutdown onboard

 

[Dustin M]

An in duct CO is not all that hard.... Or expensive. Can run on the same 24v ac as your HVAC and has the relay needed for shutdown onboard

I work as a HVAC tech so I could order one from work.
The CO detector would be fine to shut down the blower on the woodstove but it still isn't going to make the fire go out and he said if I had it going into the supply duct I would probably need a electronic damper as well but he said that still isn't a guarantee that a CO detector would be best

 

[bholler]

well good he seems to know what he is talking about i just want to know what he is saying you need 12" clearance from? As far as reducing the size what type and size liner is in the chimney?

 

[Dustin M]

well good he seems to know what he is talking about i just want to know what he is saying you need 12" clearance from? As far as reducing the size what type and size liner is in the chimney?

He said for the stove a minimum of 12" from any wall or combustible .
My chimney has a clay liner and is approx 10x8 for the wood stove side there's another flue for the fireplace I don't know it's dimension off hand

 

[bobdog2o02]

Wow, 12" is really close

 

[bholler]

He is absolutely wrong on that measurement unless the stove is ul listed which i assume it is not. An unlisted stove needs 36" on the back and sides to combustibles. With a clay liner that large you could absolutely put in an 8" crock

 

[bholler]

I just looked at your pic of the clearances he must be calling that a circulating heater but to me that is a wood stove i would stick with the 36"

 

[Dustin M]

I just looked at your pic of the clearances he must be calling that a circulating heater but to me that is a wood stove i would stick with the 36"

We'll look at the photo the stove has more that 3 feet on each side

 

[Dustin M]

He is absolutely wrong on that measurement unless the stove is ul listed which i assume it is not. An unlisted stove needs 36" on the back and sides to combustibles. With a clay liner that large you could absolutely put in an 8" crock

I can look into getting a new "crock",
Mine is a steel ring in the chimney, could you appoint me to a place to purchase a 8" ?
Reckon I can chisel it out some and put a new ring in.

 

[bholler]

We'll look at the photo the stove has more that 3 feet on each side

i know i can see that you are fine there.

 

[Enzo's Dad]

He said for the stove a minimum of 12" from any wall or combustible .
My chimney has a clay liner and is approx 10x8 for the wood stove side there's another flue for the fireplace I don't know it's dimension off hand

Wait ..you don't have a stainless steel liner? Ok Dustin do you work for the epa, or some other government agency checking to see if hearth.com members will encourage you to break every code possible.

Ok an 8" pipe into a 6" pipe into an unlined flue.....and wait you have one of your airducts touching that illegal exhaust....

Im not being mean but this has become a thread of what not to do. Are we being punked?

 

[Enzo's Dad]

Is it lined and if so has it been inspected for safety?

By lined...yes its lined with clay

 

[bholler]

It is clay lined not unlined clay is still a perfectly acceptable liner for wood is stainless better sure but if it was inspected by a pro and he said it was ok what is the problem. And dustin is now doing it to code or at least trying to figure out how to in the beginning he was way off base but he has come around and is trying to figure out how to do it right.

 

[bholler]

Ok Dustin do you work for the epa, or some other government agency checking to see if hearth.com members will encourage you to break every code possible.

And what does the epa have to do with codes? The only thing they have to do with wood stoves is setting standards for new ones They have absolutely nothing to do with codes

 

[Enzo's Dad]

And what does the epa have to do with codes? The only thing they have to do with wood stoves is setting standards for new ones They have absolutely nothing to do with codes

I was going for humor.....sorry

 

[bholler]

Ok sorry i didnt get that there have been a few guys ripping on him without really trying to help and it has been bothering me.

 

[Enzo's Dad]

Yeah, not ripping ....Its only October plenty of time to figure it out. Its hard to tie into and existing air handler, and you always run the risk of exhaust getting in the house.
When I first considered burning wood I just wanted to buy a used stove on craigslist and put it in with minimal effort. Now watching all the things that can go wrong with a fire I have seen the light. I understand that stoves need draft to burn right, and a liner is part of that. Also seeing how easy it was to clean a lined chimney, I cant imagine doing it any other way. I spent way more than i thought for wood heat, but it was money well spent.

 

[Dustin M]

Ok sorry i didnt get that there have been a few guys ripping on him without really trying to help and it has been bothering me.

Hey thanks man it's nice to have nice people say supportive things, it's rare.

And no I don't work for the EPA but I have an EPA license for refrigerant lol

 

[Dustin M]

Yeah, not ripping ....Its only October plenty of time to figure it out. Its hard to tie into and existing air handler, and you always run the risk of exhaust getting in the house.
When I first considered burning wood I just wanted to buy a used stove on craigslist and put it in with minimal effort. Now watching all the things that can go wrong with a fire I have seen the light. I understand that stoves need draft to burn right, and a liner is part of that. Also seeing how easy it was to clean a lined chimney, I cant imagine doing it any other way. I spent way more than i thought for wood heat, but it was money well spent.

I eventually will get a stainless steel liner but I'm in the process of buying the house and I have a baby number one on the way so money is kind of tight that's why I'm Burningwood..
I will have it done correctly before I lock my first fire in sure you. Obviously I wanted to be safe for my family.

I've worked on Many and oil burner and I can tell you that that is a fire hazard is if any, I feel Like wood is more safe
Then having a heat exchanger full of fuel and igniting..

 

[begreen]

I called and spoke with my local building inspector. I explained what I had and how I had it hooked up .
He told me there isn't a local code for a fire damper, and that the only legal way I can have it tied into my supply duct , is to have a CO DETECTOR inside the supply and have it wired to shut the blower down.

He recomened, from experience he said, was to have a shroud or suspended return and have that suck the radiant heat into the return.
And I wouldn't legally need a CO detector wired into the duct .

also he said on clearance was a minimum of 12" all the way around from any combustible .

The 12" clearance for an unlisted stove is only with an approved, ventilated wall shield. It can also be 18" with a wall of brick, but with no shield it's 36" in all directions. What did he say about reducing the flue pipe down?

 

[Dustin M]

The 12" clearance for an unlisted stove is only with an approved, ventilated wall shield. It can also be 18" with a wall of brick, but with no shield it's 36" in all directions. What did he say about reducing the flue pipe down?

I actually didn't ask him about that, I will have to call him back and ask.
I bileve I read in the NC code
Book that you cannot have a reducer.

 

[bholler]

many times you are allowed to reduce one size but not 2