Just got to vent

[johneh]

Got up this morning to a burn pot full of smouldering pellets, glass Black and little heat
Well I guess it's time for a cleaning (but why only 1 1/2 tons of pellets normally after 3 tons)
Of course, it just happens on the coldest day of the year. get the smouldering mess burnt
down, stove cool Start cleaning the firebox next, the panels off the back WOW it is plugged
with ash ( first time ever tried soffties never again) Get it cleaned up to the draft gate. pull
the combustion fan and clean the fan and the area around it. pull the chimney Tee Cap and
brush the chimney. All back together, fire the stove up. Dam how come no spark shower
Pull out my Tester for RPM the combustion fan is only running at 1500 RPM should be 3300
Ok, check the dealer he has a new fan in stock. Go and get the fan check it before leaving
The plastic where the wiring connects is BROKEN only one in stock . Can have me one for Thursday
So now trying to keep the stove room warm using a broken ass stove. Must be a Harman
have to empty the burn pot twice a day now. Thankyou for letting Mr RANT

 

[farmwithjunk]

Got up this morning to a burn pot full of smouldering pellets, glass Black and little heat
Well I guess it's time for a cleaning (but why only 1 1/2 tons of pellets normally after 3 tons)
Of course, it just happens on the coldest day of the year. get the smouldering mess burnt
down, stove cool Start cleaning the firebox next, the panels off the back WOW it is plugged
with ash ( first time ever tried soffties never again) Get it cleaned up to the draft gate. pull
the combustion fan and clean the fan and the area around it. pull the chimney Tee Cap and
brush the chimney. All back together, fire the stove up. Dam how come no spark shower
Pull out my Tester for RPM the combustion fan is only running at 1500 RPM should be 3300
Ok, check the dealer he has a new fan in stock. Go and get the fan check it before leaving
The plastic where the wiring connects is BROKEN only one in stock . Can have me one for Thursday
So now trying to keep the stove room warm using a broken ass stove. Must be a Harman
have to empty the burn pot twice a day now. Thankyou for letting Mr RANT

Things always seem to have the worse timing don't they? At least the wait isn't that awful long for a new part.

My 2 year old Duraliner rigid (insulated double wall) rusted out so I got a replacement section under warranty. Thought I'd pull the whole thing to drill the rivet and replace that section over a few hours on the weekend. Things got stuck, had to drill rivets, damaged another section of pipe. Now I'll be down a stove for 3 weeks during the coldest part of the year and down $2200 buying another type of liner after deciding not to use the same product. And I still have to install the new system when it comes in.

 

[GG Woody]

Keep em coming...
Makes me feel better!
I'm always wrenching on old stuff, finding discontinued parts, taking on projects that other people gave up on for good reason...
Recent one is a 1999 snowmobile, in excellent condition...1100kms... Everything is not right, melted electrical stuff... steel spiral nails used inside the carburetor... bent tie rods... missing fasteners... water instead of fuel...

Carry on, persevere...

 

[bogieb]

Had to leave last Thursday and got back late last night. Had the mini split going most of that time, with the P43 set as backup (the thermostat for the P43 is in another room). Had the pet sitter turn off the mini split Monday night becuse the lows were going to low, so only the P43 was keeping the main floor warm.

While unpacking last night, I noticed the top half of the glass is black - and yucky. I expected a bit of brown ash, but this is more than that:

It has been running SW for a while now, and I haven't had that issue. But figured the negative low temps maybe did something. Then I went to check how full the hopper was. Hmmm, the lid was just resting there, not pushed down for a seal. I balieve that was the issue. Later today I should be able to shut off the stove, let it cool off, then clean the glass. The next running after that will tell me all I need to know (and yes, I had just cleaned the stove the weekend before I left, and it had been fine up to the point I left for my trip).

 

[shtrdave]

Mine is oil furnace, I live in a garage, well a living space built inside a garage, big oil furnace is what heated the building. Now it heats the garage area, I keep it set around 50 because my water line come in in the furnace room. This year I had to hit the reset button to get it to fire up. Worked great for about 4 days then noticed it felt cooler than usual and checked had to hit it again, 2 days later it tripped again. It is hard to find anyone to do anything around here, my past furnace guys have retired. I figured it can't be that difficult to service other than getting my fat ass in the little space to get to it, so I picked up a new nozzle and filter. Filter had some stuff in the bottom, took out the assembly with the nozzle and electrodes and said that is probably my issue, the electrodes were burnt pretty bad the gap was 1/4" plus and it should be 5/32. Of course did this on a day when no one was open to get parts. (finding parts is another issue around me, they all seem to only want to work with businesses not individuals) I readjusted and had to bend them a little also to get them back to where they should be. New ones are to be here Friday, and I get to get my fat ass back in there and swap them out. Good thing is the furnace has been working great through this cold spell.

 

[johneh]

Up Date
This morning at 8 am the general manager of Friendly Fires is at
my door with the new combustion motor/blower. Never in my
life have I ever had service like that. Full of apologies and a coffee
later he was on his way. New unit installed and the stove is again working like new
Stove room is comfy again Thank you Friendly Fires

 

[tbear853]

... etc .... My 2 year old Duraliner rigid (insulated double wall) rusted out ... etc ...

Was it the pellet vent with the stainless steel inner wall ..... that rusted. I had some exposed to rain, snow,, etc above the roof for over 20 years, just surface patina. I reworked the flue, and later opened up old sections to get to the stainless steel, it was just dirty black inside, but exterior was still shiny with no rust at all.

 

[Sono]

Dont you just love when everything tends to break down or start having issues at the worst of times?!
We have a fireplace and Ive used it once ( never had it inspected since I bought the house ) but after running a fire one evening, the next I released the damper chain and the damper at the roof wouldnt open, I got up on the roof and the inside was all iced up? I got it open but just nuts that it will freeze shut overnight after being used, it is a stainless steel box with an off center damper flap. But thats just a drop in the bucket as we had a new super high efficiency HVAC system installed with all PVC pipes unlike the old Dinosaur that was here. Well it has been great since it uses less propane and I went from a 500 gallon tank to a 330 gallon tank. Well one morning we woke up to it being 10 degrees inside ( below freezing outside ) I was like WTH??? checked the flashing codes, thumbed the booklet and started diagnosing , come to find out the condensation drain outside that we had a hose on so water wouldnt drip on the deck had frozen solid. Took it off and poured boiling water on the pipe, a chunk of ice slid out with all the water held back, furnace fired right back up... just crazy the little things. Now Im getting this pellet stove ready to hook up to cut propane costs, debating running through the wall to outside or running it up the chimney?

 

[tbear853]

Oh, I see. Have gas fired high efficiency 50+ gal water heater that the house heat also is plumbed to for to circulate hot water through for the air handler, then that water goes back to cold side or inlet side of water heater, have 330 gallon tank. Last February, a water drop from condensation froze the outside wall mounted regulator, thought was a water heater issue. 125 miles each way for new Rheem. Discovered issue, heat gun fixed it, kept new water heater in my basement for future. I do change Anodes every few years on the 2003 version.

We wanted hot showers. We just keep house heat at 60-61, Pellet stove is our first line of defense.

I just couldn't imagine that stainless steel liner inner wall rusting.

 

[farmwithjunk]

Was it the pellet vent with the stainless steel inner wall ..... that rusted. I had some exposed to rain, snow,, etc above the roof for over 20 years, just surface patina. I reworked the flue, and later opened up old sections to get to the stainless steel, it was just dirty black inside, but exterior was still shiny with no rust at all.

No, it was 8" Duraliner rigid - 304 inner, galvalume outter. Water or creosote rotted it out. Galvanized has no business in chimney pipe IMO. Must have had moisture inside because it pin holed from the inside out. I have with pics of it. Incredibly frustrated for such an expensive product - $300+ for each 4' piece.

My brother had some pellet vent he installed in maybe 2005 used about 10 years then stopped. The galvanizing on it rotted out, even the sections running under the floor. Sure it might have been damp in the basement but it should have lasted a lifetime. One of my houses has galvanized line for central air/heat in the basement. I'd guess its 60 years old and looks like new.