Jotul F600 rebuild

[Nick Mystic]

Sounds like the rebuild turned out well. What is your plan for hearth protection? What is that underlayment that the stove is sitting on currently. I have an F600, as well, and I know the hearth clearances are larger than the present footprint. I hope the stove continues to burn well after break in.

 

[paredown]

Sounds like the rebuild turned out well. What is your plan for hearth protection? What is that underlayment that the stove is sitting on currently. I have an F600, as well, and I know the hearth clearances are larger than the present footprint. I hope the stove continues to burn well after break in.

I have a funny situation--an immense fireplace, with a huge bluestone hearth that is cantilevered out into space. The stove is sitting on the hearth and vents through the chimney. To get the fireproof coverage of at least 3 feet, I have a simple rectangle built with a cement board base with dry laid slates that runs underneath the cantilevered hearth and extends out, with a nice oak trim around the whole thing. One day we may go to an insert, in which case I don't need the extra coverage, or when we sell the house we will probably remove the stove and slates You can see the gray slates and oak trim just behind the coffee table.

 

[Lumberjack]

I have a funny situation--an immense fireplace, with a huge bluestone hearth that is cantilevered out into space. The stove is sitting on the hearth and vents through the chimney. To get the fireproof coverage of at least 3 feet, I have a simple rectangle built with a cement board base with dry laid slates that runs underneath the cantilevered hearth and extends out, with a nice oak trim around the whole thing. One day we may go to an insert, in which case I don't need the extra coverage, or when we sell the house we will probably remove the stove and slates You can see the gray slates and oak trim just behind the coffee table.View attachment 251775

could you provide a link to your rebuild thread?

i might need to do this too!

 

[Woodly]

Just wondering if anyone could provide some details on taking an f600 apart... I have some fairly bad airleaks at both top front corners where the side panels and front panel meet (on a blustery day the whistle will drive you nuts). I am hoping to really get in there and caulk the joint from inside the stove, instead of caulking the outside of the stove. Any suggestions...

 

[paredown]

could you provide a link to your rebuild thread?

i might need to do this too!

Just wondering if anyone could provide some details on taking an f600 apart... I have some fairly bad airleaks at both top front corners where the side panels and front panel meet (on a blustery day the whistle will drive you nuts). I am hoping to really get in there and caulk the joint from inside the stove, instead of caulking the outside of the stove. Any suggestions...

Rebuild thread is here--about four posts down I tried to describe how to take it apart. You basically need to remove the insulation and top plate through the front, then the top bolts of the small center cover, and then from the top take out the corner bolts for the large cover. Once it is open from the top, you can see what you need to repair. I too had some airleaks close to the top corners that I filled with stove cement when I had it apart.

Jotul F600 Burn tube assembly--repair or replace

I recently found that I have damaged the right side manifold on the burn tube assembly. I'm guessing this happened when I fell asleep after starting, with the side door cracked open. My local stove guy sells individual parts so I can buy just the right side (door) manifold, but I don't know how...

www.hearth.com

 

[paredown]

Oh, if you don't have the exploded parts diagram and manual, that may help as well:

 

[Lumberjack]

nice, super helpful, thanks!

 

[Prich]

Hi Brolley- Yes caulk with furnace cement all seams that you can. Put a seal on the secondary air manifolds connection to the back interior of the stove too after you bolt them up. Make sure your top plate gasket is in good condition and I'd dab furnace cement on all four corner seams at the top where they meet, a common place for your stove to pull in extra air. Do not put cement under the door glass gasket, that will create hard spots for pressure points that will bring problems. Don't forget to check the ash door gasket too, another air leak source. Good luck with her, great stove...

Hi Brolley,
It sounds like you know a bit about the F600. I am in possession of one that is over 20 years old and needs to have the left door removed to have one of the screw holes re tapped. One of the screws that holds the clip that keeps the glass in place was sheared off years back. Is is possible to remove the door without disassembling the whole stove?
Thanks for any insight you can provide!

 

[begreen]

Hi Brolley,
It sounds like you know a bit about the F600. I am in possession of one that is over 20 years old and needs to have the left door removed to have one of the screw holes re tapped. One of the screws that holds the clip that keeps the glass in place was sheared off years back. Is is possible to remove the door without disassembling the whole stove?
Thanks for any insight you can provide!

Answered in your thread on this topic.

 

[Woodly]

Rebuild thread is here--about four posts down I tried to describe how to take it apart. You basically need to remove the insulation and top plate through the front, then the top bolts of the small center cover, and then from the top take out the corner bolts for the large cover. Once it is open from the top, you can see what you need to repair. I too had some airleaks close to the top corners that I filled with stove cement when I had it apart.

Jotul F600 Burn tube assembly--repair or replace

I recently found that I have damaged the right side manifold on the burn tube assembly. I'm guessing this happened when I fell asleep after starting, with the side door cracked open. My local stove guy sells individual parts so I can buy just the right side (door) manifold, but I don't know how...

www.hearth.com

Thanks for the reply seems to be fairly simple then, I had another look and the bolts for the big top were all covered in sooty ash...so i can see them now. Just have to find a relatively nice day to dig in to this project.

I also want to replace the gasket for the top (already replaced the gasket for the oval plate) and was hoping someone might know a the size 1/4" - 1/2" - 5/8".

I will be sure to take some pictures of the process and post them here for anyone else.

 

[Lumberjack]

looks to be 1/4", 3.5 feet long.

 

[Woodly]

Took the top off the f600 last night to hopefully fix my front upper corner air leakage problem. Once I removed the top I could see that the original cement had cracked away in all four corners...So I filled them best as I could and replaced the gasket on the main top and let everything harden up over night.

I lit up the stove this morning and unfortunately I still have the air leakage along both upper corners, which i suspected might happen. I posted a pic of the gap where the front panel and one of the side panels come together and you can see the dust and build up in the gap about 4" down from the top that i where the air is leaking. Looking at the stove with the top off it seems I cant access that gap from the inside because there is a steel shroud that covers the inside corners and the burn tube assembly appears to rest on this shroud inside..So i think i would need to completely gut the stove to fix this issue and likely pull the panels apart, which unfortunately is not going to happen. So I guess my only other solution is to fill the gap between the panels from the outside with the stove cement to see me through until I can do a full rebuild In a couple years once I get my garage built

 

[JVB]

I started out to fix a few leaks in our 2004 F600 last Fall but ended up doing a complete teardown & rebuild. First photo shows it almost apart. Removed all the old cement & bead blasted each piece in my bb cabinet. Repainted with Thurmalux Hunter Green with a couple light coats of their clearcoat. Came out very nice but boy did it stink during the 3 break in fires! All cured up now & ready to heat my shop for the forseeable future. Used this stove to heat our large 1750s colonial for 10 years & then swithed to a Hitzer 50-93 anthracite coal stove.

 

[Lumberjack]

I started out to fix a few leaks in our 2004 F600 last Fall but ended up doing a complete teardown & rebuild. First photo shows it almost apart. Removed all the old cement & bead blasted each piece in my bb cabinet. Repainted with Thurmalux Hunter Green with a couple light coats of their clearcoat. Came out very nice but boy did it stink during the 3 break in fires! All cured up now & ready to heat my shop for the forseeable future. Used this stove to heat our large 1750s colonial for 10 years & then swithed to a Hitzer 50-93 anthracite coal stove.
View attachment 255883 View attachment 255884

wow.....that green looks beautiful

i ended up using black stove polish over paint for the exact reason you described....the burn off!

 

[Lumberjack]

Took the top off the f600 last night to hopefully fix my front upper corner air leakage problem. Once I removed the top I could see that the original cement had cracked away in all four corners...So I filled them best as I could and replaced the gasket on the main top and let everything harden up over night.

I lit up the stove this morning and unfortunately I still have the air leakage along both upper corners, which i suspected might happen. I posted a pic of the gap where the front panel and one of the side panels come together and you can see the dust and build up in the gap about 4" down from the top that i where the air is leaking. Looking at the stove with the top off it seems I cant access that gap from the inside because there is a steel shroud that covers the inside corners and the burn tube assembly appears to rest on this shroud inside..So i think i would need to completely gut the stove to fix this issue and likely pull the panels apart, which unfortunately is not going to happen. So I guess my only other solution is to fill the gap between the panels from the outside with the stove cement to see me through until I can do a full rebuild In a couple years once I get my garage built

View attachment 252877View attachment 252878View attachment 252879View attachment 252880View attachment 252881View attachment 252882

yes, you could fill from the outside....it won't be beautiful but should be functional.

how did you know you had an upper air leak btw?

 

[JVB]

I lit up the stove this morning and unfortunately I still have the air leakage along both upper corners, which i suspected might happen. I posted a pic of the gap where the front panel and one of the side panels come together and you can see the dust and build up in the gap about 4" down from the top that i where the air is leaking. Looking at the stove with the top off it seems I cant access that gap from the inside because there is a steel shroud that covers the inside corners and the burn tube assembly appears to rest on this shroud inside..So i think i would need to completely gut the stove to fix this issue and likely pull the panels apart, which unfortunately is not going to happen. So I guess my only other solution is to fill the gap between the panels from the outside with the stove cement to see me through until I can do a full rebuild In a couple years once I get my garage built

That was the issue that resulted in a complete rebuild of my F600. I had tried to fix it from the outside without much luck long term. Thought I could get at it with the top off but one thing lead to another & I ended up breaking down the entire stove. If the cement has broken down there it's probably failed elsewhere.

 

[JVB]

wow.....that green looks beautiful

i ended up using black stove polish over paint for the exact reason you described....the burn off!

Thanks. I'm happy with how it turned out but I hope to never have to rebuild it again! Originally it was blue/black enamel but time & previous external repair attempts had taken there toil. When I pulled the top cover I found 2 cracks starting from the center opening so that had to be replaced. Cover was well over $400 for black/blue enamel or under $280 for black paint. I opted for the painted part, bead blasted the old enamel just enough to remove the sheen / give a slightly rough surface for paint adhesion & changed the color.