Jotul F55 1 hour burn time Help!

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
I see you have your stove top thermometer in the corner. What does it read at the center? I get about a 100 degree difference between those two spots.

I would pay more attention to your flue temp. Try this, rake your coals forward, reload firebox, burn on high til you reach 400 flue temp, adjust to medium and let flue temp climb to 600, set air to medium low and watch flue temp and see if it settles in between 400-600 flue temp if not adjust air accordingly.
Not sure, but jotul manual says to place at one of the two corners of plate. optimal combustion is 400-700F.
 
Measured the draft. Wide open, half closed, full closed on primary air resulted in range of 0.13 to 0.15
 
Not sure, but jotul manual says to place at one of the two corners of plate. optimal combustion is 400-700F.
Don't worry about the stove top temp run it by tge pipe temp.

And you are about double tge recommended draft. You need a damper
 
Don't worry about the stove top temp run it by tge pipe temp.

And you are about double tge recommended draft. You need a damper
Would it make more sense to try and block some of the secondary combustion holes on the bottom of the stove first and see if that helps?
 
Would it make more sense to try and block some of the secondary combustion holes on the bottom of the stove first and see if that helps?
That's not going to reduce the draft
 
I have access to a digital manometer. I assume I can pull my flu thermometer and stick the probe in that hole?
Needs to measure with resolution of .01 WC. Get a piece of brass or copper tubing
Would it make more sense to try and block some of the secondary combustion holes on the bottom of the stove first and see if that helps?
ive messed with blocking secondary air intake. It just draws more from primary. And it changes the carefully designed air ratio.
Get a damper measure draft below the damper
 
  • Like
Reactions: bholler
Needs to measure with resolution of .01 WC. Get a piece of brass or copper tubing

ive messed with blocking secondary air intake. It just draws more from primary. And it changes the carefully designed air ratio.
Get a damper measure draft below the damper
I work in a lab and am using a calibrated manometer with proper resolution. I did use a small piece of copper tubing attached to the small monometer rubber tubing. Don't understand your 2nd comment as I don't have a damper installed.
 
Would it make more sense to try and block some of the secondary combustion holes on the bottom of the stove first and see if that helps?
First thing I would try is blocking the unregulated primary boost air from the doghouse in the lower front firebox
 
First thing I would try is blocking the unregulated primary boost air from the doghouse in the lower front firebox
you mean the small round hole at front of box that faces the rear of stove? I thought this was tied to the primary air lever?
 
Needs to measure with resolution of .01 WC. Get a piece of brass or copper tubing

ive messed with blocking secondary air intake. It just draws more from primary. And it changes the carefully designed air ratio.
Get a damper measure draft below the damper
Yeah it may change the carefully designed air ratio for a stove designed around a 15’ chimney. The taller you go that air ratio should be less to achieve the same results I would think? I’ve had success messing with my secondary air with my F45 but still haven’t found that sweet spot. I may just end up installing a pipe damper but I’m trying this first.
 
you mean the small round hole at front of box that faces the rear of stove? I thought this was tied to the primary air lever?
I’m not familiar with your F55 firebox but that sounds like it. My F45 has two holes there and they go straight down through the bottom of the stove and are not connected to the primary air control.
 
I’m not familiar with your F55 firebox but that sounds like it. My F45 has two holes there and they go straight down through the bottom of the stove and are not connected to the primary air control.
how did you block your hole?
 
F45 boost air holes inside the firebox. The protrusion is welded to the outside of the doghouse . Looks like an ugly nose.
[Hearth.com] Jotul F55 1 hour burn time Help!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Todd
similar to mine, but our stove only has one hole
Was coming back to this as I still haven't tried plugging the boost holes. If these holes are tied to the secondary air, how would blocking these holes have any affect on the draft?