Jotul F500 burn

[Pertzbro]

I dont consider Cottonwood to be an in- house firewood. Mainly for campfires and bonfires and burning my trash. It's notoriously wet and doesn't coal. However, wood is wood and it all puts off heat, i just have become select on wood since i do have an awesome supply.

 

[SpaceBus]

Here is a pic of my flue pipe, the tee snout is about 8-9 inches long. If I put a thermometer there am I going to get a reading that really means anything or is it too close to the stove? Once the liner gets past the block off plate it is insulated all the way to the top. Also this is in the center of my home not an outside wall

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Is the tee class A insulated chimney?

 

[Zoso2385]

The tee is not insulated, it’s single wall stainless pipe. It’s part of the 6” pro liner.


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[SpaceBus]

The tee is not insulated, it’s single wall stainless pipe. It’s part of the 6” pro liner.


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How well can you see the tee when adjusting the stove? Perhaps place a surface therm at the top of the tee right before the transition.

 

[Zoso2385]

Can’t see it very good because there’s only about 1” of clearance from the stove pipe to the top of the fireplace opening, I was thinking of using an auberins thermometer and a surface mount thermocouple like this

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[SpaceBus]

Can’t see it very good because there’s only about 1” of clearance from the stove pipe to the top of the fireplace opening, I was thinking of using an auberins thermometer and a surface mount thermocouple like this

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Excellent, I was going to suggest Auber.

 

[Texas123]

I am now burning in my Oslo 500 for the fourth winter. You are burning yours well based on the temperature and the fire you want to see.
As for measuring the stove temperature, I place a Rutland magnetic thermometer on one of the corners as the Jotul people state in the manual.
Don't overthink this, in a couple of weeks you will know from the heat off of the stove when to close the primary air and when to open it wide up.

 

[firefighterjake]

Looks like a clean burn to me . . . as mentioned I would try turning down the air control a bit earlier. I would not be surprised to find you can close down the air all the way. I am also not surprised to see you did not have as long a burn . . . and that's not a bad thing for this time of year . . . the firebox looks like it could be loaded up more. I also find that what I burn has a big effect on burn time . . . oak, apple and sugar maple = much longer burn time vs. poplar, softwoods, etc. Keep up the good work. Nice installation.

 

[Zoso2385]

Thanks, this will be a season of learning for me, and by next year I should have a nice rotating supply of dry wood, mostly oak and maple, some cherry


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[SpaceBus]

Thanks, this will be a season of learning for me, and by next year I should have a nice rotating supply of dry wood, mostly oak and maple, some cherry


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When I first started burning in the Morso (actually mid December) I was convinced I needed to close up some of the rear secondary air opening or put in a damper. Now that I'm used to the stove I know to start closing it down when approaching 250df flue surface temp. I might still need a damper after I put a 6" insulated liner into my 8" masonry liner...

 

[begreen]

It's a common temptation for a new stove owner to blame the stove for unexpected behavior. I have done the same but over time learned to live with whatever the stove does for at least a couple weeks of burning until I understood its nature a little better. When I started burning in the Castine I thought it took off too quickly and I lacked control so I started exploring how it took in air and devised ways to cut it off (foil ball) because lots of people at the time (2006) were also trying out their first large EPA stoves and reporting runaway fires. Within a couple weeks of burning, as winter temps set in, I learned that it was me and not the stove that was getting carried away. I was going by stove top temp and not turning down the air until the stove top reached 400-500º. Then I put in a probe thermometer and saw my flue temps were reaching 1000º by that time! The firebox was a ball of flame with a fountain of secondary of fire added! Waste of fuel and unneeded stress on the flue.

After that, I started watching the probe thermometer closely and observed that I was starting to get secondary burn a long time before the stove top reached 500º. With good kindling and proper loading I could have secondary combustion with a 200-225º stove top. I adjusted my startup operation to ignore the stove top temp and go by the flue temp. That made a world of difference. No more raging fires and a notably longer burn time. From that point on the stove was easy to run and a pussycat to control. Lesson learned then was that besides dry wood, the next thing one needs is a good flue thermometer. And that a lot of stove documentation sucks when it comes to proper regulation of the stove.

 

[Sawset]

White oak and a some basswood, dry wood.
15min from first lite in a cold stove.
Good secondaries.
Air supplies closed down, ready to run.
With dry wood, flue temps rose fast, and could have been shut down sooner. 15min later, only secondaries are visible, stove top 350.