jotul 8 spin draft

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

nd_arkie

New Member
Sep 27, 2016
5
Connecticut
New member here. Lot's of good info in here but I have not run across anything similar to what I am experiencing.

Bought a cottage 5 years ago with a Jotul 8 with the spin draft in the front below the door. We use the stove a few times a year in the spring and fall. At start-up it leaks smoke around the top at the corners. This past weekend I pulled off the top, cleaned the entire stove removing all the internal plates, put a new 3/8" gasket in the top and door and replaced the glass gasket. When I went to put the top back on I noticed that the rim of the stove body is actually a bit larger than the opening on the top so the top gasket will not seal down onto the rim. It is hitting metal to metal. It does not appear that the exterior body parts have opened up at the joints as everything seems to be sealed. Maybe something warped from someone overheating the stove at some point?

Main Question: In your opinion could I take a grinder to the top enlarging the gasket channel and then putting in a larger gasket? I believe I could get the rim to seal to the top gasket by doing this.

Question 2: The back burn plate has a major crack in it. What are the cons of not replacing it. It seems to be readily available and if I can fix the top it seems like I should replace it.

Question 3: The door closes really difficultly. It did this before and after the gasket replacement. Any ideas?

Thanks for any input.
 
If you can clearly see the issue where the metal to metal contact is occurring then the solution may be to carefully grind it down. If you place a straight-edge across the top is there signs of warping?
If the burn plate is still in one piece and not warping yet you may be able to stop the crack by drilling a hole at the end of it. That may buy another season of use, but I would buy a replacement spare to have on hand in case it gets worse during the winter.
Was the door gasket replaced? If so maybe it was the wrong size or is this just a case of the latch being stiff even when worked with the door open?
 
I seem to remember those old 8 tops taking 1/2" gasketing??? Any sign of significant rust in or on the stove?
 
If you can clearly see the issue where the metal to metal contact is occurring then the solution may be to carefully grind it down. If you place a straight-edge across the top is there signs of warping?
If the burn plate is still in one piece and not warping yet you may be able to stop the crack by drilling a hole at the end of it. That may buy another season of use, but I would buy a replacement spare to have on hand in case it gets worse during the winter.
Was the door gasket replaced? If so maybe it was the wrong size or is this just a case of the latch being stiff even when worked with the door open?
I have not checked for warping with a straight edge. I will do so when we go to the cottage this weekend.
The door gasket was replaced, but the door closed difficultly before the gasket was replaced. It seems to bind on the hinge side. In general the door operate smoothly, it is just when I go to latch it that I have to push pretty hard on the door to get the latch over the keeper.
 
I seem to remember those old 8 tops taking 1/2" gasketing??? Any sign of significant rust in or on the stove?
No significant rust in the or on the stove. Overall it looks pretty good.
The owners manual says 3/8" on the last page under maintenance. See attached. Either way the gasket size won't matter until I get the top gasket channel to sit down on the rim. Looks like I will try the grinder approach this weekend. Thanks.
 

Attachments

Has this stove ever been taken apart and rebuilt? Just wondering if it was reassembled with some grit in one of the base channels that is holding one side a little high?
 
Has this stove ever been taken apart and rebuilt? Just wondering if it was reassembled with some grit in one of the base channels that is holding one side a little high?
No idea if the stove has ever been rebuilt. We bought the cottage 5 years ago and the stove was in the cottage when we purchased it.

The problem with the top is that it is too small to drop down over the rim of the stove and seal to the gasket. It is almost like the top shrunk just enough to not fit properly. It is not off by much maybe an 1/8" in both directions. See attached detail. That is why I was thinking that grinding the top so that the opening was larger might work.
 

Attachments

Cast iron is not likely to shrink, but if the outside walls started to warp that could cause an issue. In that case though I would expect other issues like seams opening up toward the top of the stove.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.