Issues with Harman P43. First time poster.

[Tonyray]

the ESP probe doesn't need to be factory shiney to work fine..
never took it out in 8 yrs.. P61A.
i just use a bristle bottle washer and gently brush the probe back/forth.. lot less hassle
especially if u have a corner install like i do. hard to get in there.

 

[rickwai]

the ESP probe doesn't need to be factory shiney to work fine..
never took it out in 8 yrs.. P61A.
i just use a bristle bottle washer and gently brush the probe back/forth.. lot less hassle
especially if u have a corner install like i do. hard to get in there.

View attachment 304818

I second that. I run a 3" vent brush in to clean pipe and it cleans the esp on the way past. If you can see the esp and it looks clean its fine. If it is buried in ash that is what causes the issues because the ash insulates the probe and it cant see exhaust temp. A micro thin coating on the probe that needs cleaned with sand paper or steel wool has no insulation value hence no affect on the temp sensing or the probe. It only reads temp.

 

[Nitro-Fish]

The vacuum switch is what allows the auger motor to turn (and if it is bad, the auger will not turn even in test mode) that being said, you could try temporarily jumping the conductors on the vac switch (be sure to unplug the stove to join the two wires together and be sure to protect the ends with electrical tape so they can’t short to any metal parts, after which you can plug the stove back in) to see if the auger will turn. When you bypass the vacuum switch this test will allow the auger to turn even if there are other problems, so don’t light the stove, just use this method to see if the auger will turn. If the auger turns you have a few other things to investigate; is the flue free of obstruction (when was the last time it was cleaned?). Has the fines cover been removed (and is the fines box free of fines?), did the fines cover get put back on properly and seal correctly (does your fines cover have a slot in the top that accepts a tab on the top of the feeder weldment and did it engage properly?). Next thing to look at is the cover under the igniter, has the cover been removed and the intake air passage clear of ash build up and the cover replaces and seated flat to the bottom of the burn pot? Have you removed the ash bucket and removed the cover that allows access to the combustion blower and made sure the fan blades do not have excessive build-up on them? While you are in there you will be able to see the exhaust for the stove, you should also be able to see the ESP at the rear of the exhaust, is the passage clean without build-up? Did you replace the cover properly that protects the combustion fan blade and seals off the exhaust? Are all gaskets sealing properly; the door gasket, the door glass gasket & the ash bucket door gasket? Is the flat side of the ash bucket facing the ash bucket door and the angled part of the ash bucket facing the exhaust fan? If everything I mention for the steps after the original vacuum switch test has been performed properly and you are 100% sure you have done everything mentioned and all of the exhaust pathway is free of obstruction, you now have a couple of options; you can (at your own risk of course) see if the stove will operate properly temporarily by trying to allow the stove to start with the vacuum switch still bypassed, or you can opt to replace the vacuum switch (they are not very expensive) so all safeties will still be in place, and try to start the stove. Let us know how you make out.

 

[Nitro-Fish]

If you struggle with feeder cover, take screws loose for circuit board and hinge it open. That gives you a clear view of that area.
So now the auger will fill the burn pot with pellets, but it will not ignite? Like said before, See if the pot is getting hot. If its not the igniter is bad.

Make sure you unplug the stove before trying to remove the screws and hinge the board out of the way.

 

[Danno_99]

I'm back again I had gotten the stove up and running and the last thing I had done was cleaning the exhaust. It ran for a few days, and then it wouldn't feed again, even on TEST. I cleaned the vent from the outside this time, and now it will feed on TEST, but it won't feed when starting it up.....again I don't know what else to clean? I'm covered in soot and ash and I'm back to square one.

 

[Mt Bob]

Jumper the vacuum switch and test, as nitro said.

 

[gfreek]

Jumper the vacuum switch and test, as nitro said.

 

[rickwai]

When you say covered in soot, Was the pipe and interior of the stove very black and sooty or dark grey to brown ash? If it was pitch black fine soot is it a breathing issue and would explain not feeding do to vac switch not closing. If ash looked pretty good then may be bad vac switch? Vac switch rarely goes bad. Hopper lid is sealing properly?