Is this too much for a Jotul F 500 Oslo?

[kiteboarder]

Hi, I took 23 detailed close-up photos of the condition of the stove. Mostly inside and around the gaskets. I'll take some nice glamour shots once I have it cleaned and set up.

Do you guys mind taking a good look at them and telling me what you think I might need? As in, do I need new gaskets, or other parts, etc? 23 photos is a lot to post here, so I've put them in Dropbox. You can download them here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gclpknm9do0421y/AABQVsq0U3z1dzyB7mFEdVana?dl=0

Thanks! -D

 

[jotul8e2]

The ceiling is not insulated? That is killing you. Ceiling insulation is worth ten times wall insulation.

I'd want r50 in the ceiling. I have no idea how you could get that much up there, or how you could then ventilate the roof.

Also I wouldn't worry much about the windows, the expensive double pane windows don't give that much more insulation than the old single pane windows.

I could not disagree more. A typical house looses 25% of its heat through the windows. The r factors are deceiving. Yes, single pane windows are about r 1, and the best coated double pane only r 3 (average is more like 2.5). But what does that actually mean? It means you cut your losses through the glass by more than half, maybe by 2/3 - a tremendous amount.

However, window treatments can be as much or more effective and are certainly more bang for the buck. Simple single cell shades are usually around r 3, and double cell shades can be r 4 at not all that much higher. In combination with insulated windows you can get r5 or r6. This also make your house effectively larger as you will be able to use the space near the windows without freezing.[/QUOTE]

Use the search feature to find some of the threads on how to get all that heat that goes to your high ceiling back down to where you live.

 

[firefighterjake]

I wouldn't consider myself an expert, but your gaskets appear to be in pretty good condition . . . you still want to do the "dollar bill test" (slip a dollar bill in between the door and close it -- if the bill is snug then the gasket in that area is most likely good, if it comes out easily it may need replacing.)

I also didn't see any obvious damage or indications of overfiring. Other eyes may see something I have missed, but at first glance it looks like a solid stove.

 

[begreen]

Agreed. It's a bit dirty, but decent. Looks like it could use some minor tweaking, but nothing serious jumps out. There is some minor gasket leakage at the glass (as shown in pic), and the side door gasket looks worn, but no showstoppers. I'd try it out and see how it performs.

 

[kiteboarder]

Hi, quick update everyone.

I owe you all good photos of the installation. I just haven’t done it yet. Been too busy with other projects. However, it’s starting to get cold and I need to get this done. I’ve been researching the stove pipe, since I’m replacing the rusty Snaplock 8 inch pipe. I’m going 6 inch and expanding to 8 inches near the ceiling right before it goes into the class A that goes through the second story.

I don’t want the cheap Snap Lock stuff. I’m going to go with Dura Black from Home Depot I think, and paint it Majolica brown (to somewhat match the stove). The fitting at the top that goes from 6 inches up to 8 inches is Snap Lock though - Just because I have one already. Thoughts?

Here’s a diagram of my measurements. Yeah, I’m very detailed. The whole thing will be about 20 inches from the wall. Code says minimum of 18 inches, so I’m good.

 

[stovelark]

Hi kiteboarder- looking at pix, you did very well, she looks original. Hard to beat the deal. Wipe her down, get used to her with small fires, me thinks you'll like your new stove. One thing tho, put the flue outlet and gasket on correctly, that is a leakage spot for Jotuls if not brought down correctly. congrats

 

[kiteboarder]

^^^ Thanks! Will do. I will test all the gaskets as well. They seem ok, but the one under the burn plate seemed to have a gap. I'll make sure to double check for leaks.