I received Wess's address so it went in the mail today. I am betting only a few days at most from Pa to Ma so we'll find out shortly.
pen
pen
Troutchaser said:I did pull the probe out a couple inches last night to see what effect it might have. The temp. indication dropped about 100 deg. in just a few minutes. Of course, I had two inches of probe sticking out of the pipe, but maybe this is a more accurate reading?
I wonder if this is better than cutting it off.
Todd said:Troutchaser said:I did pull the probe out a couple inches last night to see what effect it might have. The temp. indication dropped about 100 deg. in just a few minutes. Of course, I had two inches of probe sticking out of the pipe, but maybe this is a more accurate reading?
I wonder if this is better than cutting it off.
Yeah, after cutting an inch off mine and watching it all day I can say mine dropped about 100 degrees from what it use to read and is pretty much double the external temps, still more than the 50% Condar states it should be. It's also pretty much resembles my stove top temps after everything settles in.
3fordasho said:I didn't have much luck with the Condor probe flue thermometer, replaced it with:
http://www.teltru.com/p-272-big-gre...ent-thermometer-lt225r-2001000-degrees-f.aspx
Been happy with it so far, only down side I can see is it doesn't like being zinged past 1000F. This one is also able to be re-calibrated, hold the hex nut on the back and turn the dial until it reads correctly.
BeGreen said:3fordasho said:I didn't have much luck with the Condor probe flue thermometer, replaced it with:
http://www.teltru.com/p-272-big-gre...ent-thermometer-lt225r-2001000-degrees-f.aspx
Been happy with it so far, only down side I can see is it doesn't like being zinged past 1000F. This one is also able to be re-calibrated, hold the hex nut on the back and turn the dial until it reads correctly.
Hey, that's great. I've always said I was going to get a Tel-tru surface thermo if my Sandhill ever died. But I didn't know they made a high-temp probe at a reasonable cost for a barbeque. It looks sharp. I like white dials behind glass. This is how the Sandhill is made. Is it magnetic on back? If not, how is it held in place on the vertical pipe?
Todd said:Great idea Tim. Do they make a thermometer that reads a little higher? I know you pegged yours a few times and that's what I'd be afraid of since I can easily go over 1000 in bypass mode.
Todd said:Great idea Tim. Do they make a thermometer that reads a little higher? I know you pegged yours a few times and that's what I'd be afraid of since I can easily go over 1000 in bypass mode.
Highbeam said:Todd said:Great idea Tim. Do they make a thermometer that reads a little higher? I know you pegged yours a few times and that's what I'd be afraid of since I can easily go over 1000 in bypass mode.
But how do you know Todd? I'm thinking that we are going to have a whole new idea about our flue temps once proper measurements are taken. Perhaps you've never exceeded 600. Ever. None of us can possibly know what our flue temps are or have been based on the condar meters. Only the thermocouple guys can really be certain.
Maybe after we get some feedback from Condar we will be able to adjust the dial reading on our condar probes to be accurate. In looking at it there are several hax head nuts holding it together which should be easy to loosen up for adjustment.
(Note that flue gas readings are approximately 50% higher than surface temperature readings.)
Less than 230°F (110°C): Temperature too low. Incomplete combustion, causing smoke, soot and hazardous creosote. Open draft and/or add dry fuel.
230°F to 475°F (110°C to 250°C): Safe operating temperature. Complete combustion and best efficiency.
Greater than 475°F (250°C): Wasting energy, possibly overheating. While high temperatures are often reached on initial firing, should not be maintained for normal operation.
100°F to 400°F: Temperature too low. Incomplete combustion, causing smoke, soot and hazardous creosote. Open draft and/or add dry fuel.
400°F to 900°F: Safe operating temperature. Complete combustion and best efficiency.
900°F to 1200°F: Wasting energy, possibly overheating. While high temperatures are often reached on initial firing, should not be maintained for normal operation. Reduce draft.
ckdeuce said:Forgive me if someone already asked this..... But..... Did you try using your IR thermometer through the hole that the probe goes through? It might not give you true gas temp, but it will give you the temp of the inside wall of the pipe. Maybe yank the probe (no pun intended) out of the hole and shine your IR into the now open hole (no pun intended).
Peter B. said:--
So... according to Condar, 230 surface equates roughly to 400 flue internal, and 475 surface to 900 internal.
But 400/230=1.73 and 900/475=1.89... factors which are neither 1.5 nor 2.0.
--
Yesterday, using a Condar surface thermometer and a Condar flue probe at about the same height on single wall stovepipe, most of the comparative readings I took showed the flue probe temp at 2x (or greater) for a given surface temp. The relation ranged from 1.8 to 2.5 at normal burn temperatures (230*-340* surface / 420*-780* internal).
No, nothing conclusive here... move along now people.
Peter B.
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Todd said:Ah I see they never got back to Pen or anyone else, I'm not surprised, any word from Wes999 on that side by side test with his thermocouple?
pen said:Todd said:Ah I see they never got back to Pen or anyone else, I'm not surprised, any word from Wes999 on that side by side test with his thermocouple?
They keep promising that the people in the "know" will get back to me.
My probe was received by Wes (that sounds terrible) and is going to play with it (still sounds terrible) this weekend if time allows.
pen
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