Is our wood shed roof too steep?

[Pilsner_Urquell]

Before I put the roof protection and shingles on, I'd like to know if our roof is too steep. Had a lot of thought about this one. After I put the shingles on it's kinda too late to adjust the angle. Thanks for the advice!
What we also could do, is nail another board to the end, perpendicular to the last board and nailed to the end poles?

 

[Simonkenton]

The roof is not too steep and you did a nice job of timber framing that little shed. Your problem is, the top ends of the 4x6 [American measurement] rafters are exposed to the rain and snow and will rot. Get a 2 foot wide sheet of metal that runs the length of the shed. Bend it over, so that the metal covers the rafter ends, and it also lays on top of the woodshed. Run the shingles up and over on top of the metal. The metal will protect the rafter ends.

ps Pilsner Urquell is some fine beer.
ps2 What kind of wood is that tongue and groove? Walnut? You have a log cabin? Show a pic bitte. What kind of shingles are you using?

 

[stoveliker]

A Belgian advertising good Czech beer.

The sun exposure of your wood does not seem great, and the size of the shed suggests you are buying one winter's wood each time. Please ensure the wood is dry when you burn it, i.e. it's already seasoned when you buy it (or at least partially if you buy it in spring).

 

[peakbagger]

My concern is that it looks like the adjacent roof on the right is higher its pitch will direct rain running down the roof at the face of the wood stack, it also may cause splashing from the ground back up on the lower face of the wood pile. In snowy area I would go with lower angle as snow is fluffy and the wind moves it around more. Snow could end up on the top fo the pile with such a big space over the wood.

 

[stoveliker]

It appears to me the roof on the adjacent structure has its gable end to the wood shed, as the dark stuff in the upper right corner is a gutter.

 

[DonTee]

I’ve seen some lean to sheds where they added a piece like on the front of this one. I’ve thought about adding something like that to my woodshed too.
I think that’s what SimonKenton is talking about.

 

[Pilsner_Urquell]

Thanks for the advice all. Our current plan is to attach another board to the 4x6 rafters (like the ones we used for the roof), as we don't like metal. I know metal is a better choice but we just don't like the look of it.

Then we will put the shingles on the roof, and have them extend them over the sides a little bit so the water can drip off without touching the sides. We will also extend and bend the shingles over the attached board on the 4x6 rafters, again extending them a little of the sides and so the water drips off the shingles and not the wood. Does this sound like a good plan?

About the wood: it's seasoned dry wood, so ready to put in the stove. Mostly oak and ash. Not sure what a tongue and groove is, but we used douglas wood (stained with an oil) for the side and back boards. I sanded the boards until smooth, removed the bark and oiled it. The other rafters and boards are pine wood. All impregnated wood.

Not sure if the splashing off the garden shed onto the floor between the wood shed and garden shed will cause any problems. I've included more pics so you can fully see the situation. We bought too much firewood, so I had to stack it under the garden shed as well. We're planning on only using firewood this winter, as natural gas prices are too high now in Europe. Don't mind the rest of the garden, I know it looks like chit right now (especially with the drought going on), but I have future plans for that as well

 

[CincyBurner]

Add a front pitch, or something like SimonKenton motioned to protect from runoff from the adjacent roof ?

 

[Simonkenton]

This is a log cabin kit. That top log overhangs 18 inches, this means that the gable end faces the woodpile, so no runoff from the house.

I just want a metal sheet, 2 feet wide and 14 feet long, bend it right down the middle at 90 degrees, and put it on top, so that 12 inches hangs over the side to protect the rafter ends, and 12 inches lays on the roof. This would need to go on top after the shingles have been run, the metal will set on top of the shingles.

In my first post I said to run the metal under the shingles. That would be a mistake. The metal must go, of course, on top of the shingles.

 

[Pilsner_Urquell]

So I added the shingles and found this metal siding in the hardware store. I haven't screwed them on yet, as I'd like to know what you guys think about them. Should I screw them on or get something else?

 

[Doublebogey]

That's a perfect solution but I would add a piece of wood under it attached to the end of the 4x4s for long term support. I would use whatever you used on the rest of the roof but rip it down so that it does extend further than the bend in the leading edge of the metal. Screw the metal to the support wood with screws that have neoprene washers.

 

[Doublebogey]

That should read that the support wood should NOT extend further than the bend that forms the drip edge.

 

[bigealta]

Looks great, and i don't think you have too much firewood.

 

[DonTee]

Is it even possible to have too much firewood?

 

[stoveliker]

Is it even possible to have too much firewood?

Nope. See the "I'm an addict" thread.

 

[DonTee]

Nope. See the "I'm an addict" thread.

I thought I had a firewood addiction before. This site has made it even worse. Lol.

 

[stoveliker]

It's a good support group. As in supporting each other to grow the addiction