Is 272xp enough saw for milling

[brenndatomu]

Run a few tanks through the saw cutting firewood and stuff before milling, to break it in before loading it heavy on the mill...or, you can mill slowly, taking lots of breaks at first too I suppose...and vary the throttle often...I personally didn't run WOT hardly at all the first tank.
From what I read on milling with the 660, 32:1 full synthetic is highly recommended...especially the first few tanks, but even after that too...might not hurt to run 91/92 octane also. High cylinder temps are your enemy.
Go bigger than you think you need on the bar...you lose 4-6" when mounting the mill.

 

[Diabel]

I am super excited. We normally have about 4’ of snow here at the lake by this time. This year we got 1” or 2” here and there followed by massive rains and temps above freezing. I will be spending the next 10 days here. I am so tempted to slap my 25” bar on my ma360 mate it to the mill and do some test runs....

 

[SpaceBus]

Is that 25" bar the same mount style as the 660? The big Husqvarna bars don't fit on the smaller (60cc and less) saws and they each call for a different number of drive links for the same length bar. This is where things get confusing. I do know for sure that for a 24" Husqvarna large mount bar you need 84 drive links in a loop and that is the same for a Stihl 25" bar.

If you haven't already, make an account on the Forestry Forum and you will learn a lot.

 

[Diabel]

Is that 25" bar the same mount style as the 660? The big Husqvarna bars don't fit on the smaller (60cc and less) saws and they each call for a different number of drive links for the same length bar. This is where things get confusing. I do know for sure that for a 24" Husqvarna large mount bar you need 84 drive links in a loop and that is the same for a Stihl 25" bar.

If you haven't already, make an account on the Forestry Forum and you will learn a lot.

I use this bar on my ms360 in bigger wood, when the 20” is too small for one cut when bucking. When the g660 arrives i would think that i can use this bar. I admit all the numbers when it comes to bars are confusing.

 

[SpaceBus]

I broke in my 395 cutting firewood for two or three tanks and then pretty much just the mill. It barks on the first pull choke out and then idles on the second. First pull if it has been running.

 

[SpaceBus]

View attachment 270345
I use this bar on my ms360 in bigger wood, when the 20” is too small for one cut when bucking. When the g660 arrives i would think that i can use this bar. I admit all the numbers when it comes to bars are confusing.

That will work great if it fits the 660, Stihl model numbers mean nothing to me . I like .050" gauge for milling, but you will find mixed opinions on this.

A quick explanation: Gauge is the thickness of the drive tooth, pitch is a convoluted number that comes from measuring rivet to rivet on the chain, and drive links are the number of links with drive teeth on the bottom. Google will give you a more in depth explanation.

 

[Nealm66]

14’ would be the longest if the milling goes well. This would be for the roof 2x6s. If milling does not go so well then I will order the rafters and then the 12’ headers would be the longest.

Don’t worry, I promise you I can walk you through to get perfect boards. I’ll let you get past some of the practice failures . That 36” bar is gonna suck on those small logs ha ha! The small stihl bar might become your friend! The 50 gauge is apt to get sloppy quicker and start running on you but no reason to stop you from making a few boards and a big smile!

 

[Nealm66]

Might not be a bad idea to run your process past us before you tackle the longer cuts. Gotta eliminate sag. Easy to do and necessary

 

[Diabel]

Might not be a bad idea to run your process past us before you tackle the longer cuts. Gotta eliminate sag. Easy to do and necessary

Believe you me. I will be bugging you guys quite a bit come April. Thank you.

 

[Nealm66]

If you can round up some long 2”x4” metal studs or some angle iron before hand , it will help with those first cuts. You’ll fight those rungs on the rounded part of the log sticking up. I really like the studs cus they’re light and rigid enough I can span 8’ without support if I’m careful not to push down. I can build as many mid supports super quick and slide the studs along to make any length. Remember though, with length comes taper and waste

 

[Diabel]

I have few ladders around, was planning on using one of the ladder sections.

 

[Nealm66]

I have few ladders around, was planning on using one of the ladder sections.

Then I suspect you will see what I mean

 

[Diabel]

If you can round up some long 2”x4” metal studs

Do metal studs come in 14’?
you think a ladder section will sag?

 

[Nealm66]

Do metal studs come in 14’?
you think a ladder section will sag?

I’m not sure the lengths, might find something free on Craigslist that will do the trick as well. Everything sags pretty much but it’s the rungs that mess things up. You can put support boards anywhere tho keep from sagging. My neighbors used angle iron with good success but too expensive for me

 

[brenndatomu]

I have few ladders around, was planning on using one of the ladder sections.

Then I suspect you will see what I mean

Can dimensional lumber be attached to the bottom of the ladder rails to get things up high enough for the rungs to not interfere on smaller logs?
How is angle iron used...I would think the 2 independent sides need to be attached to each other somehow?

 

[Diabel]

Can dimensional lumber be attached to the bottom of the ladder rails to get things up high enough for the rungs to not interfere on smaller logs?
How is angle iron used...I would think the 2 independent sides need to be attached to each other somehow?

Yes, i try to get my head around that too...

 

[Nealm66]

I screw a leveled1x2 on the ends of the log to set the rails on. Supports in the middle if necessary. Speedy square a 90 off the cut for the second cut. Then I set my rails on the flat and drop down for my cants.

 

[Nealm66]

Sorry, at work so hard to explain

 

[Nealm66]

Does that make sense?

 

[Nealm66]

The rungs of the ladder get in the way for long cuts or taper

 

[SpaceBus]

This is why I have a logosol.

 

[Nealm66]

It’s really not difficult

 

[Nealm66]

I might get a chance to video before spring. Just got a lot going on

 

[Nealm66]

Ok , I got a second to explain better. So lets say I just want to make 8’ boards. On the small end of log I screw a 1x2 (or 3 ) level and able to support the rails. Same on the other end. I get them as high as possible but able to get screws into enough meat to be strong. I set my rails on , drop down below the board and make my first cut. Then I flip the log and do the same thing only don’t care about level- I make a 90 off the flat I just made. Now I set my rails on this flat and drop down to the desired thickness- let’s say 6” and repeat until not possible. Then I flip them all with the live edge up (I do all this on 4x4’s) I screw a 1x across all of them tight together and level them. Then I screw a level 1x up near the top on each end to put my rails on and make my last flat. Then put my rails on the flat and drop down my desired thickness (2”) and mill till I can’t. The rails will correct any imperfections. Always good to have your rails out past when you finish so it doesn’t dovetail ( that’s what I call it) . For longer boards I grind a level flat spot for my 1x to sit in. I do this by holding the saw level as possible and work it back and forth. Just takes a couple minutes and a couple checks. You can screw in some screws underneath to fix if needed

 

[Nealm66]

Another thing might be to spray paint your log ends. Not sure what you’re spring weather is like but it will help stop the checking