Intrepid II 1987 Combustion Cleaning Question

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BCnuggetlover

New Member
Sep 8, 2024
2
British Columbia
Hi there,

I’ve tried searching this amazing forum for an answer to my question but I unable to find one so I decided to post!
I recently bought a 1987 Intrepid II and installed it in a 500 sq/ft cottage and just tad confused on cleaning!!

I want to clean out the combuster & element and want to clarify the proper procedure before going ahead with my weekend project!
Ive watched quite a few videos but still can’t find the answers to my questions.

In my first photo I have hi-lighted the 2 clamps in inside the stove that need to be loosened and turned 90 degrees inwards, that I get!

Once I have loosened the clamps am I supposed to pull out the fireback and pull it from left to right by the ribs??
No idea what the “ribs” are; if someone can point they are I would be extremely grateful.

And the top panel (circled in blue) is this where the catalytic element is and that panel needs to be loosened and removed as well and opened up to clean?

Sorry for the new intrepid owner questions, I just want to ensure I do this right and don’t want to have call my amazing dad over to do it!!

Also last tidbit, there is no thermometer in the back, there is no opening for one and from what I can see, never was so I’m not sure if this is a huge issue or not.

Thanks so much for your help!

I appreciate this more than you know.

[Hearth.com] Intrepid II 1987 Combustion Cleaning Question


[Hearth.com] Intrepid II 1987 Combustion Cleaning Question


[Hearth.com] Intrepid II 1987 Combustion Cleaning Question
 
Geez did U ever get any help on this? I had a pre-1988 Intrepid but it was the older style, no catalyst.

First thing, I would take the top firebrick out. Looks like yours is beyond degraded and you need new ones. The top firebrick comes right out. The bottom two only come free after the fireback is out. (I think. It's been awhile)

I always remember I had to loosen the nuts on those 90° clamps before they would turn easily, then maybe re-adjust when I replaced the parts. Kinda like a mountain bike w/quik release seat and wheels. You have to get the tension just right. If you have a doubt, looser is better. Cast iron does not like to be bullied w/excessive stress forces.

I recommend you get a nice sturdy wooden dowel, and a small hammer. If the pieces don't come loose when you release the clamps, tap the dowel gently with a small hammer while holding the other end against the stuck part.

The piece you circled in blue looks like the damper. The way mine came off was, when it was resting against the cast 'stop', in its open position, I had to reach in and manever it with my hand to get it to release from the lever. The open/close lever was a simple bar that fit into the damper's slot. When I got the bar free, I had to hold the damper to keep it from SLAMMING down onto the fireback. I don't think messing up and letting the damper fall onto the stove would crack it, but I tried hard not to let that happen.

I can't help you with the catalyst because mine did not have one.

What I found when I removed the lower firebricks was a bunch of ash built up in the lower well. The ash buildup didn't stop the serpentine flame path when the damper was closed, but it certainly doesn't help it. You do have to get that stuff out of there. I found an old spoon that had a flat tip, not round like most teaspoons. It was excellent for getting in the corners of that flamepath well.

Another thing I found really useful for cleaning under the ash pan is wooden shims. A thin wooden shim about 1/4" thick, 4" wide and 10" long was perfect for scraping all the way to the back of the stove once the ash pan was out, and getting the bottom clean. I think I also had a thinner one that fit in between the cast ridges in the bottom. Worked really well.

Here are a few pics showing the innards. This is from a project I did where I disassembled the thing, cleaned it up like new and then re-cemented everything.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

And Happy Holidays!
 

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Geez did U ever get any help on this? I had a pre-1988 Intrepid but it was the older style, no catalyst.

First thing, I would take the top firebrick out. Looks like yours is beyond degraded and you need new ones. The top firebrick comes right out. The bottom two only come free after the fireback is out. (I think. It's been awhile)

I always remember I had to loosen the nuts on those 90° clamps before they would turn easily, then maybe re-adjust when I replaced the parts. Kinda like a mountain bike w/quik release seat and wheels. You have to get the tension just right. If you have a doubt, looser is better. Cast iron does not like to be bullied w/excessive stress forces.

I recommend you get a nice sturdy wooden dowel, and a small hammer. If the pieces don't come loose when you release the clamps, tap the dowel gently with a small hammer while holding the other end against the stuck part.

The piece you circled in blue looks like the damper. The way mine came off was, when it was resting against the cast 'stop', in its open position, I had to reach in and manever it with my hand to get it to release from the lever. The open/close lever was a simple bar that fit into the damper's slot. When I got the bar free, I had to hold the damper to keep it from SLAMMING down onto the fireback. I don't think messing up and letting the damper fall onto the stove would crack it, but I tried hard not to let that happen.

I can't help you with the catalyst because mine did not have one.

What I found when I removed the lower firebricks was a bunch of ash built up in the lower well. The ash buildup didn't stop the serpentine flame path when the damper was closed, but it certainly doesn't help it. You do have to get that stuff out of there. I found an old spoon that had a flat tip, not round like most teaspoons. It was excellent for getting in the corners of that flamepath well.

Another thing I found really useful for cleaning under the ash pan is wooden shims. A thin wooden shim about 1/4" thick, 4" wide and 10" long was perfect for scraping all the way to the back of the stove once the ash pan was out, and getting the bottom clean. I think I also had a thinner one that fit in between the cast ridges in the bottom. Worked really well.

Here are a few pics showing the innards. This is from a project I did where I disassembled the thing, cleaned it up like new and then re-cemented everything.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

And Happy Holidays!
Thank you so much for taking the time to reply in-depth.
I decided to buy a new model and donate my old one, it was so old and not looked after, it wasn’t worth the time or money!