intelligent air intake conformation

[bholler]

Right. Because with the normal lever of air, the fire always has turbulence, (in my case) with normal damper I don't solve, with this valve under the stove the fire is more peaceful, of course I'm monitoring the flue and stove temperatures. Other than that, it seems like I don't have to constantly adjust air, the fire begins to grow but never with turbulence, and the draft starts to decrease automatically after the flames are exhausted, moreover, even with the wind, I have no turbulence

And turbulence is bad why? How long have you been running this stove? What does your draft measure at compared to what is specified?

 

[stovexxx]

And turbulence is bad why? How long have you been running this stove? What does your draft measure at compared to what is specified?

For me a little turbulence is good until that don't break the flame, at that point it is no longer good.
But more than that I need the fire to burn quietly, for me it is well-being.
I have had this stove for 1 year, and used it for about 5 months, a few more days, yet, for this season.
Draft, I know the required value, but i don't know the actual one.

 

[bholler]

For me a little turbulence is good until that don't break the flame, at that point it is no longer good.
But more than that I need the fire to burn quietly, for me it is well-being.
I have had this stove for 1 year, and used it for about 5 months, a few more days, yet, for this season.
Draft, I know the required value, but i don't know the actual one.

I really think you are just messing with it to much instead of just making sure your setup is right and learning to run your stove properly

 

[stoveliker]

Turbulence in fact can help provide more complete combustion (more mixing of oxygen with not-yet fully burned stuff).
When you're getting things up to temperature, turbulence is good. Opening the door is not, because it adds in too much air, and cools down the box quite a lot because of that.
WHen you burn at higher rates (when it's cold outside), some "rougher" flames is not at all bad.

 

[stovexxx]

I really think you are just messing with it to much instead of just making sure your setup is right and learning to run your stove properly

I went back on many things wrong, thanks to this forum, ( eliminate barometric damper, stop air from below, and next eliminate foam ! ) When I tested the stove with only 10 foot or so flue, it worked very well, when I finished the flue, Instead, I did not like it, too much turbulence so that flames were not free to burn upwards

 

[bholler]

I went back on many things wrong, thanks to this forum, ( eliminate barometric damper, stop air from below, and next eliminate foam ! ) When I tested the stove with only 10 foot or so flue, it worked very well, when I finished the flue, Instead, I did not like it, too much turbulence so that flames were not free to burn upwards

So use a damper to reduce draft instead of messing with the air essentially making it a single burn rate stive

 

[stovexxx]

Turbulence in fact can help provide more complete combustion (more mixing of oxygen with not-yet fully burned stuff).
When you're getting things up to temperature, turbulence is good. Opening the door is not, because it adds in too much air, and cools down the box quite a lot because of that.
WHen you burn at higher rates (when it's cold outside), some "rougher" flames is not at all bad.

So use a damper to reduce draft instead of messing with the air essentially making it a single burn rate stive

you were right! better to use stove normally, with its own air setting, in the morning how long does it take you to recharge and set definitive air? at least 20 minutes I guess

 

[bholler]

you were right! better to use stove normally, with its own air setting, in the morning how long does it take you to recharge and set definitive air? at least 20 minutes I guess

Usually about 10 mins but that will vary by setup and fuel

 

[stoveliker]

It depends a lot on how dry the wood is and how many coals are left.