installing new setup through wall. Need the old overhang question advice!

[rippinryno]

I'm nearing the end, but have found something I think might work better and want to see what others think. Deks dektite flashing. (broken link removed to https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dektite-PIPE-FLASHING-Red-High-Temp-Silicone-Pipe-Boot-Flashing-Sizes-4-8/162485215809?hash=item25d4dfa241:m:meUg9FDwpw_lizXLHnrorTg)

it is a red silicone rated for 375 I believe, and I'm just wondering if anybody has used this stuff and if you can confirm it will handle the outside temps of the insulated chimney pipe. There are tons of videos and threads aobut people using it, but i'm curiuos to know what you fellas feel is best. It's etiher this or I get the dead soft aluminum from selkirk. THis is simply a much easier install so I'm wondering if it's going to work just as good why not do it rather than cut up my roof.

 

[begreen]

I'd use the Excel flashing, bought as a separate item.

 

[rippinryno]

Ok, any negatives on using this silicone? i see some here have used it but there are a few people who won't recommend it. I've not seen any horror stories, and really for the ease of use, would like to give it a go if at all possible. Will cost me about $90 to have ordered at shipped to my door by the end of the week. goes on real easy.

 

[begreen]

Never used it, so I can't comment on how well it works over time. My concerns are that it is not rigid enough to stop the chimney from wobbling. I also don't like all the holes in the metal roof needed to secure it down. And I'm wondering about leaking with chimney pipe that has a seam.

 

[rippinryno]

All good points i will be caulking the seam
And i noticed i am going to have to do something for support. Ive got 2 sections total that are being held by the ceiling mount which is framed in and screwed into the joist. Basically all the chimney sits on the ceilimg mount by design. however there is wobble when i wiggle from the top. Wondering if i need a roof bracket. I did not use one but now see they have two kinds. One that mounts down by the roof and onto chimney and another that mounts to roof and then up to the chimney with rods. Ive got about 4-5 ft of chimney above roof.

 

[Beldin]

I use flexible boot jacks on Delta, tough rib, and similar metal roofs all the time. (As long as you have class A going through the roof. The best silicone caulking that I have found is called Through the roof, made by sascho. The uv light seems to play havoc on the high temp silicone that I've had to use on jobs where engineers are involved. The through the roof silicone acts similar to a mastic IMO. When installing jacks on asphalt shingle roofs I like to use 50 year silicone. You will not have to butcher much of your new roof at all, especially if you understand that depending on the pitch of your roof, you will end up with an elliptical hole.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Is that a pogo ball hanging on the wall?

 

[rippinryno]

Sure is! I finished installing yesterday and got a chance to burn all day/night. There is no insulation in the attic but I put the insulation shield up regardless, it was a bear since my clearance from roof to attic was barely 18". I used the hi temp silicone on the roof jack boot but will keep the other stuff in mind and keep an eye on things. I also used silicone around the roof jack and on top of the screws, I figure going a littler over board won't hurt anything to make sure I can keep water out.

Do you recommend putting the storm collar on the silicone roofjack?

I still need a resolution for the wiggling chimney though. I hate to put those massive brackets up there, but my chimney definitely has some wobble if I go up to the roof and try to wiggle it. It's nothing excessive but enough to need something.

I do not have a damper installed. I have about 12-13 ft of run from the stove to the chimney cap. Is there a chance this is just not designed to use a damper at all? I am just using the front intake adjustments to keep an even burn, it is working very well.

One other note, A clean out tee was not an option on the rear of the stove. The blower housing is too large and the T will not fit. I used a 90 and will have to pull it to do the chimney sweep.

the attached pictures are the rough in. I cut the roof hole bigger but set the pipe in for the photo after I got it lined up. I have about 2.5-3" clearance in all areas and climbed up in the attic yesterday just to feel and check everything in there as well as the roof. Probably wasn't necessary but I like to check anyway. There is also now an additional chimney section on top with a clamp to hold them together.

 

[Beldin]

A storm collar would be recommended. I'll be honest though, it isn't an emergency as long as your jack is sealed right. It will also keep the UVS off the boot. Don't worry about big brackets. You want that baby secure. I do alot of metal roofs, and I have noticed that anything that sticks out of the roof can eventually start walking the fasteners out. Ecspecially on OSB sheathed roofs. Keep movement to a minimum.

 

[rippinryno]

having a tuogh time finding one for the supervent pipe that I used. I'm thinking of making one stince it's so basic, looks like conduit and some strapping.

 

[begreen]

having a tuogh time finding one for the supervent pipe that I used. I'm thinking of making one stince it's so basic, looks like conduit and some strapping.

Doesn't have to be a supervent part as long as it fits the pipe. The parts should be stainless steel for best longevity and look. It probably would be good to put EPDM sealing pads under the feet on metal roof installation.
supervent
http://www.discountchimneysupply.com/catalog/item/8335657/9058001.htm
amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SQGK6/?tag=hearthamazon-20
generic
https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...f-guy-kit-stainless-steel/p-1444453719097.htm