Install advice needed

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We see that at times as well. Which is why i hate the term zero clearance. There is not much out there that really is zero clearance and it gives people the wrong idea. I have had that argument with multiple contractors before. They simply dont read the instructions. Most homeowners we run into do because they know they dont know what they are doing. But there are still diyers that don't bother with instructions either.

Its worth mentioning twice because my brother burned hot and heavy in it for quite a few years before tearing it out. When he saw the charred stud blocks he had a heart attack thinking what could have happened. Those standoffs on top are for a reason. Previous owner blocked around them and tight to the top of the firebox. Obviously didnt read the big embossed warning on top of the unit not to do that. Right in front of his face!
 
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Vermiculite is another option in chimney around flue pipe- mineral based
 
Vermiculite is another option in chimney around flue pipe- mineral based
Not straight vermiculite. It needs to be mixed with cement so it stays in place. And you actually need more room for that type of insulation. You need 1" all around it.
 
Not straight vermiculite. It needs to be mixed with cement so it stays in place. And you actually need more room for that type of insulation. You need 1" all around it.

This was an option being considered for my old chimneys, but one thing that really bothered me was that the chimney contractors couldn’t really guarantee that the pipe wouldn’t be up against the old masonry when the vermculite was poured. There seems to be this assumption that the insulation is all around the pipe, when the pipe could be easily jammed against one side of the stack, with insulation only on three of it’s four sides.

In this regard, it seems the blanket-wrapped pipes have some advantage.
 
This was an option being considered for my old chimneys, but one thing that really bothered me was that the chimney contractors couldn’t really guarantee that the pipe wouldn’t be up against the old masonry when the vermculite was poured. There seems to be this assumption that the insulation is all around the pipe, when the pipe could be easily jammed against one side of the stack, with insulation only on three of it’s four sides.

In this regard, it seems the blanket-wrapped pipes have some advantage.
We use thermix allot for oil and gas liners where the insulation isnt required. So we dont have to worry about needing that inch.
 
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Is an air gap required/recommended between the chimney and the stone veneer that I'm putting up or is it okay to attach lath directly to the chimney and veneer on top of that?

I'm asking because the brick face wall for the chimney had an air gap and I'm curious about that.
 
Is an air gap required/recommended between the chimney and the stone veneer that I'm putting up or is it okay to attach lath directly to the chimney and veneer on top of that?

I'm asking because the brick face wall for the chimney had an air gap and I'm curious about that.
No gap is needed
 
Thanks for everyone's help thus far. It is greatly appreciated.

Another question, the flue collar gasket fell apart. Does it need to be replaced with the exact one in the parts list? I can't seem to find anything online that fits unless those rope gaskets work? Any recommendations?
 
Flue collar gasket? Where was this, between the insert's flue collar and the liner appliance adapter? Was it dry and crumbly? If so that might have just been stove cement. Pics always help.
 
Flue collar gasket? Where was this, between the insert's flue collar and the liner appliance adapter? Was it dry and crumbly? If so that might have just been stove cement. Pics always help.

It was a flat ring gasket that went between the flue collar and stove. wasn't cement. some sort of fiber glass/felt looking stuff. Uploaded a file, part number 3 is what it was.
 

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It should be replaced with a factory oem gasket.