Inherited old stove with 1960s home, where to start?

[cr0]

There's this older stove in the basement and there's also a hearth upstairs, two separate flues in the same chimney. Upstairs had an open hearth and we installed a modern insert with a catalytic converter, liner, etc. We're just now starting to use the basement area where the other stove is. Two contractors said this was usable and just needed a liner, a gasket, and ideally a fan replacement. I had one of them install a liner with insulation on bottom and top of the flue and a proper cap with spark arrestor. I'm coming here to see if you all can educate me more about this stove.

In particular I'm interested in:
1. Anything else I should fix, inspect, ore prepare to run this stove?
2. Anything special I should know about running this, as compared with an old-school cast iron stove? I imagine leaving the door cracked at times can help pick the fire up. Burn it hot especially since no catalytic converter, only dampen when it's going strong and left to burn out.
3. Any safety suggestions? This is in a basement without egress directly outdoors, and not that it's hard to get outdoors, that's extra reason I'd want to have any appropriate fire safety nearby (a certain type of fire extinguisher or specialized tools) and ensure this older stove is run safely.
4. Is it safe to burn pallet wood in this? I was told with the catalytic converter on a newer stove, only use pallet wood if certain it contains no metals or other junk. Since this looks like a coal/wood stove, seems safer to mix in pallet wood even with nails or staples in it.
5. What to know about 'over-firing' or over-heating this stove? I was told on the Blaze King insert I got, it's nothing to worry about as the stove can safely handle very high temps. This stove in the basement looks like thinner metal, clearly has some rust, etc. and I'm not very familiar with over-firing issues.

Here's some photos. Any idea what make or model it is, or where I'd look for that? I checked around a little and don't see any manufacturer info.

Stove



Inside the firebox
Contractors who looked it out didn't seem concerned about all the buildup inside. The one who installed the liner did some vacuuming but didn't mess with the walls.
,

Fan
I tried identifying the fan for replacement. I might need to take it apart further. Here's what I could see and will explore:


Looks like the part is Air-Dec serial number 01960013...will call the company and see what I can find.

Thanks for reading and sharing any insight you can offer!

 

[bholler]

There's this older stove in the basement and there's also a hearth upstairs, two separate flues in the same chimney. Upstairs had an open hearth and we installed a modern insert with a catalytic converter, liner, etc. We're just now starting to use the basement area where the other stove is. Two contractors said this was usable and just needed a liner, a gasket, and ideally a fan replacement. I had one of them install a liner with insulation on bottom and top of the flue and a proper cap with spark arrestor. I'm coming here to see if you all can educate me more about this stove.

In particular I'm interested in:
1. Anything else I should fix, inspect, ore prepare to run this stove?
2. Anything special I should know about running this, as compared with an old-school cast iron stove? I imagine leaving the door cracked at times can help pick the fire up. Burn it hot especially since no catalytic converter, only dampen when it's going strong and left to burn out.
3. Any safety suggestions? This is in a basement without egress directly outdoors, and not that it's hard to get outdoors, that's extra reason I'd want to have any appropriate fire safety nearby (a certain type of fire extinguisher or specialized tools) and ensure this older stove is run safely.
4. Is it safe to burn pallet wood in this? I was told with the catalytic converter on a newer stove, only use pallet wood if certain it contains no metals or other junk. Since this looks like a coal/wood stove, seems safer to mix in pallet wood even with nails or staples in it.
5. What to know about 'over-firing' or over-heating this stove? I was told on the Blaze King insert I got, it's nothing to worry about as the stove can safely handle very high temps. This stove in the basement looks like thinner metal, clearly has some rust, etc. and I'm not very familiar with over-firing issues.

Here's some photos. Any idea what make or model it is, or where I'd look for that? I checked around a little and don't see any manufacturer info.

Stove
View attachment 329869

View attachment 329859

View attachment 329860

View attachment 329861

Inside the firebox
Contractors who looked it out didn't seem concerned about all the buildup inside. The one who installed the liner did some vacuuming but didn't mess with the walls.
View attachment 329863

View attachment 329864


View attachment 329865

Fan
I tried identifying the fan for replacement. I might need to take it apart further. Here's what I could see and will explore:
View attachment 329866

View attachment 329868

View attachment 329867

Thanks for reading and sharing any insight you can offer!

First and most important question is it hooked to an insulated stainless liner. And has that liner been fully inspected?

 

[stoveliker]

First and most important question is it hooked to an insulated stainless liner. And has that liner been fully inspected?

I had one of them install a liner with insulation

 

[cr0]

First and most important question is it hooked to an insulated stainless liner. And has that liner been fully inspected?

Yes, agreed and we did do that. Single-wall semi-rigid 6" stainless steel liner with lifetime warranty, install and insulation looked good to my untrained eye.

 

[bholler]

Yes, agreed and we did do that. Single-wall semi-rigid 6" stainless steel liner with lifetime warranty, install and insulation looked good to my untrained eye.

Yeah i missed that. Otherwise it's just going to be learning the stove. The bk isn't built to handle higher temps it's just thermostatically controlled so as long as everything is working properly it won't over fire. The combo stove you have (which looks like a hitzler) will easily overtired if you don't pay attention. I generally try to install a remote probe thermometer for inserts so you know what's going on.

 

[stoveliker]

He was asking about the insert in the pics.

 

[begreen]

It's old and inefficient. There isn't even a baffle. With the bypass open there is nothing between the fire and sky.

 

[bigealta]

If it was my house i'd pull it out and find either a modern free standing wood stove that would fit or an insert. You should burn less and get better heat from an epa stoves with secondary combustion or a catalyst.

Especially if you have to buy a new blower for this old one. Not worth throwing good money at a not great stove. Put in a better one like your upstairs has.

Should be straight forward enough to hook up to your new 6" liner.

 

[cr0]

It's old and inefficient. There isn't even a baffle. With the bypass open there is nothing between the fire and sky.

Yeah, it is rudimentary. I figure an open hearth is just a luxury, not useful for heating. This clunker shoved into the hearth might've made it effective for heating, albeit super inefficiently. Now with a liner and some flue insulation, I'd think it is still inefficient but could be effective for heating and cheaper / more pleasant than electric space heating (which is the other option in this room for occasional heating).

If it was my house i'd pull it out and find either a modern free standing wood stove that would fit or an insert. You should burn less and get better heat from an epa stoves with secondary combustion or a catalyst.

Especially if you have to buy a new blower for this old one. Not worth throwing good money at a not great stove. Put in a better one like your upstairs has.

Should be straight forward enough to hook up to your new 6" liner.

Fair enough, but I figured replacing a blower and gasket is a lot cheaper / faster / easier than replacing an insert. I just spent a bunch of money on home improvement and maintenance, so I was interested in using what I've got. But you might be right.

Do you all see it as a safety concern or just a matter of wasteful wood heating? Wood is cheap and abundant where I am, and this would be for only occasional use in a basement (practically a very insulated space) and not the main heat source for the house. So I'm not as concerned about efficiency for this stove, more about running it smoothly and safely.

 

[begreen]

If properly installed it should be safe. I see two upper rails above the bricks. Did this insert have a baffle at one point? That would help improve its effiiciency a bit. One could be fabricated to fit there.

 

[cr0]

If properly installed it should be safe. I see two upper rails above the bricks. Did this insert have a baffle at one point? That would help improve its effiiciency a bit. One could be fabricated to fit there.

In the last two pics from inside the firebox, there is a metal plate that pulls forward or backward to block the opening up the liner. That's the baffle, isn't it?

I'm picturing I'd have that and the front door open as a fire gets started. Then as it gets going, I'd close the front door and trim the smoke baffle and the air intake (another simple baffle on the ash box door) to get a slower burn or 'turn down' the fire. And to kill the fire quick I'd shut the air intake baffle and door completely, leaving the smoke baffle open. And when not in use, I'd close the smoke baffle to keep the outdoors out.

 

[begreen]

In the last two pics from inside the firebox, there is a metal plate that pulls forward or backward to block the opening up the liner. That's the baffle, isn't it?

That looks more like a flue damper to control draft, not a baffle. Here are what look like baffle supports.

 

[begreen]

The point of the baffle is to slow down the exiting of the smoke so that it lingers in the fire under the baffle longer. This promotes more complete combustion of the gases. The baffle position is fixed, not movable.

 

[cr0]

The point of the baffle is to slow down the exiting of the smoke so that it lingers in the fire under the baffle longer. This promotes more complete combustion of the gases. The baffle position is fixed, not movable.

Oh, right. Thanks for explaining that and highlighting the baffle supports. In my last photo, leaning against the stove on the left, is a hefty metal piece that was in the firebox. I think that is the baffle. I'll try installing it later. It was just laying in the firebox when I moved in.

 

[bigealta]

Well it does have a big glass door so for occasional use why not try it out.

if this motor & fan would fit that would be nice. $19 plus $24 shipping

160 CFM 115 Volt AC Dual Centrifugal Blower Air-Dec Model 60992656 16-1549 | eBay

New,Air-dec model 60992656 centrifugal double blower. Mounting tabs on bottom and front. Shaded pole motor. 160 CFM 115 VAC CENTRIFUGAL DOUBLE BLOWER. 160 CFM 115 Volt AC Dual Blower 16-1549. Flow 215 CFM max.

www.ebay.com

 

[begreen]

Oh, right. Thanks for explaining that and highlighting the baffle supports. In my last photo, leaning against the stove on the left, is a hefty metal piece that was in the firebox. I think that is the baffle. I'll try installing it later. It was just laying in the firebox when I moved in.

There you go. That's great.