It is the bubble that forms on the surface of the burnpot, above the igniter location. The parts for the retro fit are suppose to be at my dealer on 12/23, installation as soon as they are here.stephenmoore said:
IGNITERS
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I called my dealer about this today after reading this thread. He hadn't heard of it yet, but stated in the summer they released a new design of igniter (still under the burn pot) which is a 15 fin 450 watt design.
I am trying to talk him into the pressure igniter though. He said he was going to call Harman and call me back. I'll keep everyone posted.
I am trying to talk him into the pressure igniter though. He said he was going to call Harman and call me back. I'll keep everyone posted.
Have you had the issue of the bubble forming on surface of the burnpot, not all boilers are doing this? I have a friend that purchased one not to long after I got mine, he hasn't had the issue, I've had 5 burnpots do this. I don't think Harman really knows why some are doing it and some aren't. The Harman factory tech that looked at mine thought that the old style board was keeping the igniter on way to long after the boiler fired so it was replaced with a new board with a different program which did not solve the burnpot issue, it did solve the issue with the combustion blower running all the time though. I have the new 15 fin igniter installed, it was done the last time the burnpot was replaced, the bubble still forms with this igniter.Wayne64SS said:
Wil,
I have no bubble I don't think.. Does anyone have a pic so I can see what it looks like?
Also I just got a call back from my Dealer. Mark is a good guy! He's going to come out and put in the updated 15fin 450watt ignitor that i mentioned in my above post, and if that still doesn't work they will put in the kit for pressure ignition. The pressure ignition unit requires a change of some feed unit parts or assembly which they weren't willing to warranty without trying this first. My dealer confirmed existence of said parts obv.
I have no bubble I don't think.. Does anyone have a pic so I can see what it looks like?
Also I just got a call back from my Dealer. Mark is a good guy! He's going to come out and put in the updated 15fin 450watt ignitor that i mentioned in my above post, and if that still doesn't work they will put in the kit for pressure ignition. The pressure ignition unit requires a change of some feed unit parts or assembly which they weren't willing to warranty without trying this first. My dealer confirmed existence of said parts obv.
If your burnpot had a bubble forming above the igniter location, it would be noticed when you scraped the burnpot. Why does the dealer think that the igniter needs to be changed? Are you having an issue with ignition? The 15 fin igniter that was installed in my boiler was not a 450 watt igniter, I think it was stamped 306 watt.Wayne64SS said:
If you haven't already, make sure the area where the igniter is located has been cleaned, ash build up will prevent the igniter from igniting the pellets. Before the dealer installs the new igniter, look at the igniter to see if in fact it has a 450 watt stamp on it, please let us know.Wayne64SS said:
I clean the burn pot weekly or approx every 9 bags. this process for me includes removing the ignitor cover and cleaning the are inside of ash. I will definitely keep everyone posted. My dealer has been awesome so far, the guy even lets me keep a spare brand new ignitor on hand in case of emergencies. 
I don't like the manual mode and refuse to use it.
I don't like the manual mode and refuse to use it.
Hey Wayne,
curious as to why you are not a fan of the manual mode on the 105. After my igniter problems I started switching to it when the weather up here gets real cold. I haven't had any troubles with overheating and my pellet consumption seems to be about the same. Although it seems a little backwards to use something that expensive in manual mode...
curious as to why you are not a fan of the manual mode on the 105. After my igniter problems I started switching to it when the weather up here gets real cold. I haven't had any troubles with overheating and my pellet consumption seems to be about the same. Although it seems a little backwards to use something that expensive in manual mode...
Hey Wil:
Nice info. I am looking for an element for my Whitfield insert. It is a 500W-3/8" dia and about 5.5" long. The closest I can find at Chromalox is # 280065 or possibly 140521. The Whitfield ignitor has a threaded head which can probably be removed and inserted on the new element. Don't know.
However, it looks like this company only deals in quantity purchases. Can you help clarify that?? I would much sooner pay 1/3 of the cost of an OEM ignitor.
Nice info. I am looking for an element for my Whitfield insert. It is a 500W-3/8" dia and about 5.5" long. The closest I can find at Chromalox is # 280065 or possibly 140521. The Whitfield ignitor has a threaded head which can probably be removed and inserted on the new element. Don't know.
However, it looks like this company only deals in quantity purchases. Can you help clarify that?? I would much sooner pay 1/3 of the cost of an OEM ignitor.
I purchased a Chromalox igniter from these folks but the one I ordered is 3/8" dia., 3 " long, 500 watt. I don't see a 500 watt, 5.5" long one available, I see a 6" one though. You might give them a call, maybe they could come up with one for you.Pellet1 said:
(broken link removed to http://www.heatersplus.com/products/cartridg.htm)
Wil,
Did you add fins to the igniter you bought from them? Also, how is it working compared to the OEM igniter?
Andy
Did you add fins to the igniter you bought from them? Also, how is it working compared to the OEM igniter?
Andy
Andy,Andrew Churchill said:
Fins need to be added to this igniter, I haven't yet, probably will never use it when the new ignition system is installed in my boiler.
Wil
wil said:
Yes, you are correct--The second one I listed is a 400W element. Although, I took the wattage off the one I removed from the stove, and it is a 500W one, however, all the ones listed on ebay are 400W,which they say is the proper one.
So they will accept orders for single elements. Thanks Now I wonder how much they will soak me to ship to NS, Canada.
Hey Wil,
Did replacing your motherboard solve the igniters failing problem, assuming you had it too. And if so was this covered on warranty ?
Did replacing your motherboard solve the igniters failing problem, assuming you had it too. And if so was this covered on warranty ?
The controller was replaced under the warranty, the thinking was that the older CB kept the igniter on to long after the pellets ignited which caused a bubble to form on the surface of the burnpot, bubble still formed with updated CB. I've replaced the igniter 2 times, once with the first burnpot, the second with the present burnpot, this is the 15 fin igniter, both under the warranty.stephenmoore said:
So do you think your igniter has been more reliable or lasted longer since the CB replacement ? I typically only get about three months from an igniter, although I got six from the last one.
I can't say I've had igniter issues, even though I've replaced two. The first was replaced because the wire insulation was missing, the second was the 15 fin like I mentioned, the thinking was, more fins to cool the igniter quicker. I'm now running dip switches #1 and # 2 in the off position, # 3 on. The burnpot only has pellets fed up to the igniter, not covering the igniter with the switches positioned as I've mentioned. This allows for quicker ignition, very little smoke, even from a cold start. I timed it once using the new programed CB, 31 sec. after ignition the igniter shut off, it took forever to shut off with the old CB.
Thanks Wil, I'm going to try the swith positions you mentioned and see if there is any difference. I hear the new igniter set up costs about $900 and is likely not a warrantied item. I'm hoping maybe I can get a new board and make the difference in the ignition system.wil said:
Is there any new info out there regarding the new ig system being covered by the warranty? Also Will, with your new dip switch settings are you getting dependable pellet ignition everytime?
The new pressure ignition was installed in my boiler, covered under the warranty, to see if this would prevent the bubble forming on the surface of the burnpot. With the new ignition system, the dip switches are set to # 1 off, # 2 on, # 3 on. I found when using the old style ignition system (finned cartridge), dip switch # 1 off, #2 off, #3 on, these settings would give me the quickest ignition with the least amount of smoke. The finned cartridge igniter mounted within the burnpot doesn't need to have pellets completely covering the igniter for ignition.Centurion said:
Wil,
Do you have any pictures of the pressure igniter? Just wondering if it is simular to what Enviro is using in there multifuel stoves.
Find any aftermarket pressure igniters?
Do you have any pictures of the pressure igniter? Just wondering if it is simular to what Enviro is using in there multifuel stoves.
Find any aftermarket pressure igniters?
Jay,
I'm quite sure the Harman igniter and air pump is the one in this link. Click on, in line heaters, click on in line process heater, part # HAC 00007(pg 3). The Harman igniter, the end of the igniter is threaded, 1/4" pipe thread to thread into a fitting. I believe Harman has Tempco thread the end of the igniter. I know the the Harman igniter is from Tempco, its stamped on the igniter.
http://www.tempco.com/
I'm quite sure the Harman igniter and air pump is the one in this link. Click on, in line heaters, click on in line process heater, part # HAC 00007(pg 3). The Harman igniter, the end of the igniter is threaded, 1/4" pipe thread to thread into a fitting. I believe Harman has Tempco thread the end of the igniter. I know the the Harman igniter is from Tempco, its stamped on the igniter.
http://www.tempco.com/
It is awesome, almost instant ignition. I'm a little concerned now that Jay has had an issue with a air pump failure. Humm, I'm thinking, maybe that a pressure switch of sort and the wiring should be changed so the igniter will not be powered until the air pump is creating pressure.Andrew Churchill said:
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