If you hardcore woodcutters had to buy a cord of wood...

[firefighterjake]

I have burned lots of White birch in an old smoke dragon stove. It burns great, and is the only hardwood that grows over huge areas of north america (Alaska, Yukon Terr.). Nothing wrong with White Birch except it tends to rot soon after it dies, even if it is still standing. I assume the seller cut live trees that aren't rotten.

If both sellers are tellig the truth about the wood, I'd say the Birch is going to be drier (lower moisture content) than oak, and therefore might be a more satisfying /easier wood to burn. The oak will burn longer, and its value will depend on how well it seasoned over the 12 months (did it have wind and sun, or was it is a cool, shady spot?). 12 month seasoned oak is far better wood than most people burn, so not a bad choice. If the maple is Red or Silver Maple, it will be like the birch. Sugar Maple will be like the oak - partially seasoned. I might go for the birch in order to get more consistently dry wood.

You should also comparison shop biobricks or the several similar brands of compressed wood brick. I realize they aren't as authentic as real wood, but might give more BTU per $. Some pallets or waste ends from dimensional lumber (2x4s, etc. check construction sites) might be nice to fire up the semi-seasoned oak.

+1 . . . I burn a fair amount of birch (white, yellow and gray) and have never had any issues with burning birch (then again I burn almost any type of wood in my stove since I figure all wood has a time and place for burning). Yellow and gray are a bit better than white birch in terms of BTUs, but honestly I get plenty of heat out of white birch . . . I just don't use it for my overnight fires. My wife personally loves using it on the reloads since the bark flares up nicely.

As Wood Duck said . . . I would go with the birch . . . but be aware that it isn't considered primo wood . . . and +1 to the comments on using pallets and waste ends to help with marginal wood.