Ideal Steel Problem

[kennyp2339]

My question is should that be the practice with bricks?

When I burn them I let the front catch fire and providing that the cat is already within the active temp I'll close the by-pass, the key is catching the bricks at the right time before shutting down the stoves air, that's why its recommended to only use a few bricks until you know how your set-up reacts to them since its a ultra dry fuel source.

At what flue temps is over firing a concern?

To hot of a flue temp is anything above 800 deg, although there times that you get temp spikes.
check this out https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/what-is-a-safe-flue-temp-what-is-too-hot/

 

[Brono]

So it sounds like a flue probe is a nice to have, but not really needed? I should engage the cat off the cat probe, even if the flue probe isn't reading at least 500F? Or will that not ever be the case until AFTER the cat is engaged?

 

[Woody Stover]

So it sounds like a flue probe is a nice to have, but not really needed? I should engage the cat off the cat probe, even if the flue probe isn't reading at least 500F? Or will that not ever be the case until AFTER the cat is engaged?

In my stove, the cat probe doesn't really work...the probe is too long to transfer the temp all the way back to the dial. So the probe ends up being a "flue exit meter." That usually parallels the surface meter I have lying on the tee snout (rear-exit flue setup) about 6" behind the flue exit.
Even though they suggest 250 stove top to close the bypass, I instead can just run the exit probe up to 900-1000, 450-500 on the tee snout meter, cut the air to hold it there for 10-15 minutes as the load burns in a little more, then close the bypass and get an instant cat light-off every time. If you can't actually see the cat glow on your stove, you should see the cat probe rise fairly quickly if the cat is lighting off. In my case I can see the cat glowing but also the stove top meter, which is over the cat, rise at a good clip.
You have a probe that gives a good reading, so you should be able to run the stove with it. You'll have to see how the cat meter responds when you are ramping up the load, as compared to the flue meter. I like to have as much input (as many meters) as I can.

 

[Brono]

In my stove, the cat probe doesn't really work...the probe is too long to transfer the temp all the way back to the dial. So the probe ends up being a "flue exit meter." That usually parallels the surface meter I have lying on the tee snout (rear-exit flue setup) about 6" behind the flue exit.
Even though they suggest 250 stove top to close the bypass, I instead can just run the exit probe up to 900-1000, 450-500 on the tee snout meter, cut the air to hold it there for 10-15 minutes as the load burns in a little more, then close the bypass and get an instant cat light-off every time. If you can't actually see the cat glow on your stove, you should see the cat probe rise fairly quickly if the cat is lighting off. In my case I can see the cat glowing but also the stove top meter, which is over the cat, rise at a good clip.
You have a probe that gives a good reading, so you should be able to run the stove with it. You'll have to see how the cat meter responds when you are ramping up the load, as compared to the flue meter. I like to have as much input (as many meters) as I can.
View attachment 236668

Thanks for the input. One question, once I figure the stove out and if I (or the wife) decide to remove the probe for aesthetics, is there a way to cleanly plug the hole? Or does it not even matter? My biggest concern is the smoke accumulating between the pipe walls, eventually condensing, etc. Also, smoke spilling into the room is less than ideal.

 

[Woody Stover]

Get a nail of sufficient diameter, cut it to length and paint the head black?

 

[Highbeam]

Class a is rated for 1000 degrees continuously. No need to shut down at 800.

A flue temp probe is actually pretty good looking and useful. I engage the cat when either the cat meter indicates 500 or the flue meter indicates 500. Easy to remember. You could just as easily be conservative and not engage until both meters say 500. Relax, these things are pretty easy to run.

I do not consider stove top temperature useful with a cat stove.

 

[Brono]

Thank you all for the input. I'm biting the bullet and ordering a cord or two of kiln dried after burning all weekend with the wood I have. I've mixed it with BioBricks and I can get it to burn, but there is a lot of sizzling and it takes forever to really get going. Also, I checked my cat probe as something seemed off with it, and when placed in boiling water it was closing in on 400F. I can't imagine I've done much if any damage to my cat over the course of two weeks by engaging it presumably too soon, but I will also plan on installing my flue probe this evening. I'm hoping Condar is pretty good with warranties, will call them today.