These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.I need a durable wood handle axe for splitting.Any suggestions?
Rich L said:These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.I need a durable wood handle axe for splitting.Any suggestions?
mtarbert said:I don't think you are going to find an axe worth buying for splitting wood. The handles don't hold up because an axe is Not designed to split wood. It is (was) designed to limb or set spring boards. Even the best handled axe will not last as long as the handle in a splitting tool although they do look something like an axe they are two diffrent tools. Use an axe for limbing and notching and a splitting tool for.........
Good luck,
Mike
mtarbert said:I don't think you are going to find an axe worth buying for splitting wood. The handles don't hold up because an axe is Not designed to split wood.
►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:mtarbert said:I don't think you are going to find an axe worth buying for splitting wood. The handles don't hold up because an axe is Not designed to split wood.
Hmmm a felling axe would fit your description but I think its pretty common knowledge that a splitting axe like the fiskars excels at splitting. You wont get a wood handle, if you want a nice curved hickory handle look at the Helko like posted above.
I'd probably already have the Helko 2300g heavy splitting axe except that its been out of stock for months...
southbound said:►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:ss="spellchecked_word">mtarbert</SPAN> said:I don't think you are going to find an axe worth buying for splitting wood. The handles don't hold up because an axe is Not designed to split wood.
ss="spellchecked_word">Hmmm</SPAN> a felling axe would fit your description but I think its pretty common knowledge that a splitting axe like the ss="spellchecked_word">fiskars</SPAN> excels at splitting. You wont get a wood handle, if you want a nice curved hickory handle look at the ss="spellchecked_word">Helko</SPAN> like posted above.
I'd probably already have the ss="spellchecked_word">Helko</SPAN> ss="spellchecked_word">2300g</SPAN> heavy splitting axe except that its been out of stock for months...
If you get one you wont regret it.....
southbound said:here is one I built...
Custom wiring and all...
Ya now that looks like something that can deal with me.I just put in a call to Fiskars to see where in my area I can get my hands on their new 36" handle axe.Those other European brands sound interesting also.Thanks for the intel.southbound said:Wait not what you wanted right...
southbound said:Wait not what you wanted right...
smokinjay said:I like the first one better...
Rich L said:These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.
No sir I haven't.Never heard of that method.How long should they soak ?►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:smokinjay said:I like the first one better...
I like the scandinavian splitter too (the first one). And that one you can actually get (the other has been out of stock for quite some time). I worry about it being a lightweight though...
I thought the 2300g was perfect - just a little heavier than the fiskars, but the scandinavian is a whole pound lighter.
Southbound, how does the lighter weight scandinavian compare to the fiskars? Is it worth holding out for the 2300g? Will either handle larger rounds, say 20" diameter up to 20-24" length cherry, oak, and locust? I've had plenty of rounds that size (and smaller) that I could not split with an 8# maul, so no biggie, they go into a stack and maybe once a year when I get a large stack going, and then bring in a whole other truckload, I rent a splitter and get it all done in a day. Just curious how much those can handle. I dont expect any axe to split better than a maul, more like nearly as good - but alot easier to swing.
It hasnt been mentioned yet but for a more Fiskars-like equivelent Helko also has the Tomahawk series with nearly indestructable handles, just a tad longer than the fiskars(31.5", so like between the two).
And the nice thing is they a piece of cake to swap out handles and heads, and you can even swap between the hickory and composite too, felling axes, splitters, even hatchets.
Rich L said:These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.
Have you tried the method of soaking the head in raw linseed oil?
I soak mine all in Boiled Linseed Oil for a day or two.Rich L said:No sir I haven't.Never heard of that method.How long should they soak ?►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:Rich L said:These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.
Have you tried the method of soaking the head in raw linseed oil?
I didn't wait until it was loose on mine, I did it right after installing the new handle. When i do it to mine I just put some BLO into a gallon ziploc, then put the head of the axe/maul in there tie it up with some string or duct tape or whatever can keep the bag on. The wood swells a little and then hardens substantially. I don't know if I'll have to repeat this ever or not. It should last years at least.►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:Danno can probably explain better than I since I've never had to do it but the linseed oil is suppose to swell the wood making it tight again. I have had a wooden handled axle (I think its a true temper) for 10 years and it has never loosened, so I've never tried it; I wonder if I ought to do it occasionaly just as preventative maintanence? My maul is synthetic handle.
Danno,does that mean you boil the oil then put the axe heads in the hot oil or let it cool then put them in.What's the reason for the boil ?Regards Rich.Danno77 said:I soak mine all in Boiled Linseed Oil for a day or two.Rich L said:No sir I haven't.Never heard of that method.How long should they soak ?►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:Rich L said:These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.
Have you tried the method of soaking the head in raw linseed oil?
BLO comes from the store that way. Not warm, not heated by me. Costs about 8 bucks at my wal-mart:Rich L said:Danno,does that mean you boil the oil then put the axe heads in the hot oil or let it cool then put them in.What's the reason for the boil ?Regards Rich.Danno77 said:I soak mine all in Boiled Linseed Oil for a day or two.Rich L said:No sir I haven't.Never heard of that method.How long should they soak ?►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:Rich L said:These new wood handle axes don't hold up.I use them for splitting and after a month the head loosens.It's a pain.
Have you tried the method of soaking the head in raw linseed oil?
►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:Danno can probably explain better than I since I've never had to do it but the linseed oil is suppose to swell the wood making it tight again. I have had a wooden handled axle (I think its a true temper) for 10 years and it has never loosened, so I've never tried it; I wonder if I ought to do it occasionaly just as preventative maintanence? My maul is synthetic handle.
Rich L said:What's the brand of your 10 year old axe that has never loosened?That's pretty outstanding.I just put in a order with my local ACE hardware for the new 36" handle FISKAR axe.I was told it won't be in till 1/17/2011.Tomorrow I get the Linseed oil.I'll report the results.Take Care.
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