bad news
Member
That 271 would probably do fine. I think the 250 is too small for what's essentially an only saw for you.
I need a chainsaw, what size for general use?
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jatoxico
Minister of Fire
Don't blow off that little Homelite. Be nice to it and assume you're going w/ a two saw plan. That being the case I'd lean towards 60cc, maybe anything 55ish + depending on whether it's a pro or farm/ranch saw.
haha my target size and budget keeps climbing as I read this thread.
in the mean time I did some general maintenance to my homelite and it seems to be running well now, so I will indeed be on the two saw plan.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
Ain't that always the way! I saw you might be considering some saws north of $300 so I figured I'd join in. But if you feel like you're coming back to earth a 33cc and 50cc 2 saw plan would be very respectable and more than fine for a typical firewood cutter. In which case the 50 cc Rancher still fits the bill. Put some of the money you save into some PPE if you don't have already.
missedbass
Member
bad news
Member
Goes both ways I guess...on one side, you shouldn't let yourself get sucked into spending too much by what a bunch of jokers on the internet say. After all, you've gotten along ok with a small Homelite for who knows how long...
On the other hand, only $100 or $200 more isn't that much for something you can own and enjoy for many years if you take care of it. I'd personally would buy the biggest baddest saw you can reasonably afford (what's reasonable is up to you, haha!) and use that Homelite for small stuff or easy trimming.
There it is.
As for bar length and engine size, I guess you can put your personal experience up against the combined years of experience of tens of thousands of professional saw users, or you can learn from other people's experience. The overwhelming majority of people in the field don't like to waste time and money replacing saws that had their useful life shortened by running a too-long bar, and 18" on a 50cc is a pretty near universal recommendation from those folks.
CincyBurner
Minister of Fire
* Find a saw you are comfortable using and that you like, and meets your needs 85% of the time. If regularly cutting branch wood and smaller trees (only occasionally up to 30" diameter), a 5o cc w/ 16" bar should work fine. If taking large butt logs for firewood; plan to do felling; own wooded land, then bump up to 60 cc or even 70 cc.
* Find opportunities to use others' saws. Try 40 cc, 50 cc, and 60 cc; try home-owner, ranch, and pro models to get a feel (but don't want thread to degenerate into a Stihl v. Husky v. Echo discussion). Stihl used to have trials of their saws at their Timbersports events, don't know if they still do. It's limited use, but an opportunity to get feel of a range of saws. But . . . realize the more powerful and "better" the saw that you use, the more you'll covet something bigger & better.
For me a Stihl 260 Pro with 16" bar meets two of my cutting needs - 1) personal firewood, and 2) the occasional use for work - limbing and bucking, where ambulatory cutting in brush/ debris is required, and a powerful, well balanced saw is important.* Don't reflexively go for the longer bar. Go for one length shorter (16" instead of 18"). Longer bar = more drag, less cutting speed and weight balance shifted toward bar. Also, a saw with 3/8" pitch chain will require more power than a .325 pitch chain because more wood is being cut.
* As others have suggested consider purchase of used pro model.
* Find opportunities to use others' saws. Try 40 cc, 50 cc, and 60 cc; try home-owner, ranch, and pro models to get a feel (but don't want thread to degenerate into a Stihl v. Husky v. Echo discussion). Stihl used to have trials of their saws at their Timbersports events, don't know if they still do. It's limited use, but an opportunity to get feel of a range of saws. But . . . realize the more powerful and "better" the saw that you use, the more you'll covet something bigger & better.
For me a Stihl 260 Pro with 16" bar meets two of my cutting needs - 1) personal firewood, and 2) the occasional use for work - limbing and bucking, where ambulatory cutting in brush/ debris is required, and a powerful, well balanced saw is important.
* As others have suggested consider purchase of used pro model.
* Keep your budget for PPE separate from saw budget.
* Keep your chain sharp.
* If saw will get infrequent use like my saw does, then use fuel mix (e.g. Stihl MotoMix).
* Keep your chain sharp.
* If saw will get infrequent use like my saw does, then use fuel mix (e.g. Stihl MotoMix).
jaoneill
Feeling the Heat
I am inclined to agree with the majority of the above posters in that a 55-60 cc saw with an 18" bar will serve well for many years. If it makes you feel good, grab a 20" bar with a skip chain for the occasional oversized tree.
For the last ten years I have cut my 10 cord/year with two 55cc pro model saws; one wears an 18" bar, the other a 20".
Then there is my "50" - Pioneer P50 that is. I bought it in '77/'78, it's a Canadian made 85+cc pro model that came stock with a 36" bar. Although I cut a semi-commercial volume of firewood and logs for the next 25 years, most of what I cut was under 30" so I parked the stock bar and bolted on a 20 incher. With that much power, and that short a chain to spin, I kept the rakers filed down to half way and it was one wood eatin' SOB; it would fall through a log like a hot knife through butter, one just had to hang on for the ride. I used it for everything from blocking to limbing, anything else was just too damn slow. I never said I was going out to cut wood; used to tell folks I was going out to "mow" wood and that was what it did. Two rebuilds, twenty-five years and thousands of cord of wood later, it came to rest comfortably in the back of the garage as life moved on. 15 years later we went back to burning, and as I was getting on in years I bought the two smaller, more easily manageable saws.
Last year I decided to start thinning some of our bigger 36"- 48" maples, thinking they are beginning to go downhill and will provide us with all of our wood for the next 10-15 years. Problem is, how to tackle 48" trees with 18" saws. I almost pulled the trigger on a new 70cc pro model then stopped to think; "I wonder if the old 50 will fire up". It did. So I bought the old girl a new spark plug, popped in a carb kit, and bolted on a brand new/old stock 28" bar. Truth is it only weighs 3lbs more than a new 70cc, and spins that 28" chain a whole lot better than a new one would a 24". I'm sure the EPA and my Jonsered dealer both would probably rather I didn't love the old girl so, but I do. So far I am only using it for blocking the 24" and larger stuff (it is alot of saw for a 68yo) but what a pleasure it is to hear the old girl roar again. Life is good.
For the last ten years I have cut my 10 cord/year with two 55cc pro model saws; one wears an 18" bar, the other a 20".
Then there is my "50" - Pioneer P50 that is. I bought it in '77/'78, it's a Canadian made 85+cc pro model that came stock with a 36" bar. Although I cut a semi-commercial volume of firewood and logs for the next 25 years, most of what I cut was under 30" so I parked the stock bar and bolted on a 20 incher. With that much power, and that short a chain to spin, I kept the rakers filed down to half way and it was one wood eatin' SOB; it would fall through a log like a hot knife through butter, one just had to hang on for the ride. I used it for everything from blocking to limbing, anything else was just too damn slow. I never said I was going out to cut wood; used to tell folks I was going out to "mow" wood and that was what it did. Two rebuilds, twenty-five years and thousands of cord of wood later, it came to rest comfortably in the back of the garage as life moved on. 15 years later we went back to burning, and as I was getting on in years I bought the two smaller, more easily manageable saws.
Last year I decided to start thinning some of our bigger 36"- 48" maples, thinking they are beginning to go downhill and will provide us with all of our wood for the next 10-15 years. Problem is, how to tackle 48" trees with 18" saws. I almost pulled the trigger on a new 70cc pro model then stopped to think; "I wonder if the old 50 will fire up". It did. So I bought the old girl a new spark plug, popped in a carb kit, and bolted on a brand new/old stock 28" bar. Truth is it only weighs 3lbs more than a new 70cc, and spins that 28" chain a whole lot better than a new one would a 24". I'm sure the EPA and my Jonsered dealer both would probably rather I didn't love the old girl so, but I do. So far I am only using it for blocking the 24" and larger stuff (it is alot of saw for a 68yo) but what a pleasure it is to hear the old girl roar again. Life is good.
2broke2ride
Burning Hunk
I love this post[emoji173]️
!! There is absolutely nothing that compares to putting a pro saw to some wood. I have three saws in the stable, two of which my father bought brand new. The smallest is dads Mac 10-10 circa 1971 52cc 16" bar bought brand new when dad graduated high school it has cut thousands of cords of firewood and never even had the carb rebuilt, next is my Husqvarna 266xp 66cc 18" bar, got it free from dads work because it wouldn't start, needed a $10 carb kit...... The. Last but not least is the Jonsereds 70e 70 cc 20" bar. Dad bought it brand new around 1980 or 81. This saw is a firewood monster. There is no way I could tolerate the small displacement and big bar combo of homeowner saws.
D8Chumley
Minister of Fire
I had an 025 with 16" bar for awhile, darn good little saw. Unfortunately it was the red headed step child, and didn't get used as much as the MS170 or 360 ( before it blew up ) which I then got the Echo 590 w/18" bar. I sold it to a buddy who was looking for a good used saw for $200 with 2 extra chains. OP, we will spend all your money if given the chance!
Sean McGillicuddy
Minister of Fire
Pyrate Dave
Member
CTSW, where did you buy your Stihl? I'm in Manchester and just paid about $34 more for the same saw.
missedbass
Member
I have returned the saw it had some issues, I will pm you the name of the dealer, they are reputable around here and took my used saw return no problem.
it was $410 before tax with an 18inch blade. I offered $400 out the door in cash, as they do not have to pay credit card fees. they accepted. Full receipt and stihl warranty and everything.
unfortunately the saw would not stay idoling it was set to low. bought on friday, closed all weekend. I failed to adjust carb to a perfect level myself without the chain spinning, lost the weekend.
brought it in monday,they adjusted it quick, ran great for 15 min of use, now wouldnt start at all period. No I did not flood it, again closed as it is now the following weekend.
they gave me a full refund no problem, I don't want to badmouth anyone I think I just got a flakey saw for some reason someone must have played with the carb screws or not set from the factory. Im sure they are capable of fixing it again in a matter of minutes, but I lost 2 weekends and my baby 33cc homelite picked up the slack. So I now am on the search again for a new saw, nothing against stihl but I think I might get something else.
Jazzberry
Minister of Fire
Stick to their pre smog pro saws and you should have much better luck. 020 026 036 044 046 066 are all much better choices. Also in the ms 200 ms 260 ms 360 etc.
Sounds like a bad cylinder on your saw ssuprised they wouldn't just give you a brand new one to replace it.
Pyrate Dave
Member
Thanks for the info. These things will happen as the world is an imperfect place. I can appreciate the frustration you must have felt, been there many times myself. It sounds like the dealer took care of you. Good luck with the hunt for a new saw. I've had good luck with my Stihl backpack leaf blower which I've had for around 6 years, and so far, so good with the new saw. I've learned to stay away from the big box stores when making these kind of investments as I think the quality is lacking in what the big box stores carry, although you can't beat the convenience of the hours they are open.
Yeah even though I have never owned a Stihl they are no doubt great chainsaws. Something just went wrong with that one. I would usually be the one that bought it. Dad always said that if he went car shopping he would take me to pick it out, and he would buy the one sitting next to it given that I always pick the one that breaks. 
im sure they would have, I just have no time to get there durring working hours I cant really risk a trip back
I've been trying to hold myself back . . . but I cannot.
Bar . . . it's a bar . . . not a blade. A knife has a blade. Chainsaws have bars with chains.
I'm sorry . . . I really am . . . but I just could not hold back any longer.
Bar . . . it's a bar . . . not a blade. A knife has a blade. Chainsaws have bars with chains.
I'm sorry . . . I really am . . . but I just could not hold back any longer.
Sean McGillicuddy
Minister of Fire
oh i love playing devils advocate. ya know, all things considered, it's much more the shape of a blade than a bar. Technicalities and by definition i suppose it is called a bar, but honestly.....resembles a blade much more than any bar i have come to mind. To me a bar is more of a rod
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