I bought the unit used from a person that moved into a new house and never used it. The unit is in good shape. So I had a professional company install it. I started a small fire the other night for 2 hours to get the new paint to cure. today I tried to start a fire and the smoke was backing up into my house. I never saw it come out the chiminey. when I closed the door it almost about choked out the fire. if I crack the door the fire grows but still dosent go up the chimney. it was about 40 degrees out. I have both primary air control and start up knobs pushed all the way in which is open. One member had a similar problem and mention that he took off a plate for air venting on the unit. if any one has any ideas, ill take them. Thanks carl
I have a QUAD FIRE 5100I ACT NEED HELP
- Thread starter CarlNap
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Thanks guys for your reply. Im still at work. I didn't warm up flue. Im gonna give it another shot tonight but first i'll get my propane totch and warm up the flue. Im just praying that there is nothing wrong with the primary air control knob cause if there is . Supposedly can't be fixed. I'll keep u guys posted. Does anyone have this same unit?
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
I'd wait until this storm moves out 1st before making a fire, the warm moist outdoor air will make it harder to light especially when you have a weak draft to begin with
How many stories in the house? What floor is this insert installed on?
Read page 6 of the insert's manual. Are any of these factors at play with this installation? The manual follows with some guidelines:
D. Flue Draft Considerations
Location of the appliance and chimney will affect performance. As shown in Figure 6.1 on page 6 the chimney should:
• Be installed through the warm space enclosed by the building envelope. This helps to produce more draft, especially during lighting and die down of the fire.
• Penetrate the highest part of the roof. This minimizes the effects of wind turbulence.
• Consider the appliance location to the floor and ceiling attic joists.
Exterior conditions such as roof line, surrounding trees, prevailing winds and nearby hills can influence appliance performance. Your local dealer is the expert in your geographic area and can usually make suggestions or discover solutions that will easily correct your flue problem.
To be sure that your appliance burns properly, the chimney draft (static pressure) should be approximately -.10 inch water column (W.C.) during a high burn and -.04 inch W.C. during a low burn, measured 6 inches (152mm) above the top of the appliance after one hour of operation at each burn setting.
Read page 6 of the insert's manual. Are any of these factors at play with this installation? The manual follows with some guidelines:
D. Flue Draft Considerations
Location of the appliance and chimney will affect performance. As shown in Figure 6.1 on page 6 the chimney should:
• Be installed through the warm space enclosed by the building envelope. This helps to produce more draft, especially during lighting and die down of the fire.
• Penetrate the highest part of the roof. This minimizes the effects of wind turbulence.
• Consider the appliance location to the floor and ceiling attic joists.
Exterior conditions such as roof line, surrounding trees, prevailing winds and nearby hills can influence appliance performance. Your local dealer is the expert in your geographic area and can usually make suggestions or discover solutions that will easily correct your flue problem.
To be sure that your appliance burns properly, the chimney draft (static pressure) should be approximately -.10 inch water column (W.C.) during a high burn and -.04 inch W.C. during a low burn, measured 6 inches (152mm) above the top of the appliance after one hour of operation at each burn setting.
The insert is normally setup to use room air for combustion. If the house is sealed very tightly the insert may need outside air. You can check this by opening a nearby door or window an inch. If that makes a dramatic improvement in stove performance it may need an outside air supply. But if it does not, then the issue is 99% probable to be weak draft and/or poorly seasoned wood.
Thanks guys for your replies. I had the guy come here this morning how installed the chimney liner. We got a nice fire burning now for hours it turned out to be the ceramic blanket that goes over the bricks before the flue was bunch up obstrucfing flow. We received it and it's working fine. The guy said i don't need it it's just foe efficiency. What do u guys think. Anyone have this unit that doesn't use it?
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That great to find the problem but removing the blanket is a hack. The insulation blanket helps the firebox get hot faster and the stove to burn cleaner. If it is properly installed it will lay flat and not obstruct the flue opening. Put it back in per the instructions in the manual. Look on page 28 for detailed instructions. While you are checking, make sure the baffle board is all the way to the rear.
I agree , i oredered a blanket and will try and install it after the holidays. Do u think it will harm the unit with a low to medium fire. It seems odd that with the bricks in place and the heat going up the flue it would damage the unit? Was hoping to burn a fire for the holidays.
It should be ok. Just make sure the baffle is all the way to the rear of the stove as shown on page 28.
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