I hate seasoning oak thread!

[rdust]

Mr Rock stated in his above post: "no mention of powder". I was pointing out there is a mention of powder that I found in about 30 seconds skimming the manual posted by Mr. Rock.

I read Dogbytes post as meaning the cheap meters are only good for things you can push the probes into such as powders. I was just stating the manual lists powders/chemicals among other wood products. No harm no foul either way this is the internet and we'll take away from it what we choose.

those cheap off the shelf meters are no where close. those moisture meters are meant for powders and other material that you can push the probes down inside.

 

[Dogbyte]

Well pardon me !! there is a reason, you do not need really expensive devices, for firewood
The inexpensive moisture meters are meant for timber and building materials.

General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter
Here is a (broken link removed to http://www.generaltools.com/assets/images/manuals/MMD4E_INSTRUCTIONS.pdf)for ya
And One For The Harbor Freight Digital Mini Moisture Meter
No mention of powder

looks as though you've taken issue with something ive never suggested. that is, that you need any type of meter for firewood. without context, my comment you quoted might seem that way to others, but all it was meant to show, is that for accurate results of wood, rough, clean, or otherwise, hand helds arent used. if you've found a way to use it then im glad, i just wouldnt trust the number its showing you down to the single digits like ive been reading about on here. i was just trying to help the person that was doubting his meter, sorry if this upsets you.

 

[oldspark]

We know they work because of results and you can not argue with results, not sure why you think they are worthless, not rocket science, does not have to be perfect and for a quick check of your wood they work very well. I am an electrician and I can check the wood any way you want me too but what the hell would the point be? Have not seem many claims of single digit numbers, one guy had single digit % but he was drying his wood by his stove for a week or so and it was higher when he started.

 

[Dogbyte]

Lots of strawman arguments. I didn't mean to ruffle feathers. Never implied anyone lacked any mental capacity for using them. Yall take care. I know when it's best to shut up, so that's what I will do.

 

[rdust]

Never implied anyone lacked any mental capacity for using them.

I don't think anyone took it as such until now.

 

[oldspark]

Lots of strawman arguments. I didn't mean to ruffle feathers. Never implied anyone lacked any mental capacity for using them. Yall take care. I know when it's best to shut up, so that's what I will do.

Really dont want you to shut up, I want you to put up, several of us have told you how we feel about them and how they work for us (no strawman there) so what ya got?

 

[Dogbyte]

I don't think anyone took it as such until now.

Wouldn't know it by the replies.

 

[Dogbyte]

Really dont want you to shut up, I want you to put up, several of us have told you how we feel about them and how they work for us (no strawman there) so what ya got?

ive heard it told that i said only use expensive meters
or to use meters at all in any capacity

i never advocated any of those, so yes those are strawmen...nor did i say it was rocket science.... im not sure what else you want me to "put up". the only thing im standing behind is that you cant use those meters to accurately test the wood down to single digits (yes percentages) and that number represent reality. you may get a number, any number, and correlate that with no sizzle in the wood, that is basically a post hoc determination.

if someone new, was to go after a new split of wood with a cheapo meter and specifically aim for a certain percentage point, you are only chasing someone elses experience in their area, with thier conditions. if you use them at all, then i still have no problem with it. Just dont act like its an accurate representation of reality. its just a number on a cheap meter. i only said what i did, in the context of the post i replied to. so you can put that where ever you want to.

im really sorry to the OP that this thread was derailed.

 

[HDRock]

Actually the guy is right, on page two of the (broken link removed to http://www.generaltools.com/assets/images/manuals/MMD4E_INSTRUCTIONS.pdf) under uses it says Chemical/Pharma "check the dryness conductivity of powders".

Ok ,U got me
The Harbor Freight has no mention of powder, the General Tools Meter does.
Bottom line , The inexpensive Meters are accurate enough for firewood, and work great for many wood burners, simple as that.

 

[rdust]

im really sorry to the OP that this thread was derailed.

No reason to be sorry, you're stating your opinion and people can choose to listen or not. The reality is wood that is not kiln dried or seasoned in the desert has very little chance of hitting single digits. I do not believe those numbers when I see them posted, it's rare to see single digit numbers posted. The EMC in most areas isn't near single digits. A member(Battenkiller) that used to post often on this subject did many tests comparing to meter to oven dried and came to the conclusion the meters were really close for our purpose. He actually ran tests and had results/research to back up his results.

If you want to doing some reading here is a good post comparing the two from BattenKiller. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/deconstructing-denniswood.73798/#post-73798 Feel free to search his many posts on the subject.

 

[oldspark]

"I would consider the 4th option. That you can't accurately test a hunk of wood with harbor freight quality testers. In fact any economy tester that doesn't measure electrical resistance across probes driven at least a fifth the depth of the thickness isn't giving you anything other than a surface reading."
Well there it is, what was I to think?

 

[georgepds]

Actually the guy is right, on page two of the (broken link removed to http://www.generaltools.com/assets/images/manuals/MMD4E_INSTRUCTIONS.pdf) under uses it says Chemical/Pharma "check the dryness conductivity of powders".

For timber the HF meter doc says the accuracy is 2% for low moisture level ( <30%) and 4% for high moisture level( >30%)

see p 11
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/67000-67999/67143.pdf

 

[HDRock]

Don't really need it for firewood but , if U think U do, you can get a mini-Ligno for $100.00.
(broken link removed to http://www.lignomatusa.com/MoistureMeter/webminilignomanual.11.30.10.pdf), You could possibly use the, Wood Temperature Correction Chart with other meters ,If U want to get technical

 

[Cluttermagnet]

This coming winter I'll be burning my 3 year old cubes of Red Oak. You guys have me
just a little worried, as it is certainly possible that I had some leaks in my cheapo tarp
covers. My gut hunch is that all the wood will burn just fine. BTW they look a lot darker
than in the photo at this point. The tarps were new when they went on. I think they held
up OK.

Mother nature dealt me a lot of Tulip Poplar the past couple of years. Several times,
big trees have come crashing down in my back yard. I'm finding that properly
seasoned Tulip is quite a usable wood. It has about 2/3 the BTU's of Oak. Keeps
my house plenty warm. The seemingly greater amounts of light, fluffy ash that form
in the firebox can actually be easily compacted with the back of the shovel. So it
turns out that Tulip actually produces no more ash than any other of the woods I
burn here. Mixed with some Oak or Locust in every batch, it contributes its share
of the BTU's and the other woods take care of producing usable coals.

I burn a mix of Oak, Locust, Cherry, Maple, and Tulip Poplar, plus a few other
odds and ends types as I get them. Have been burning since 2007 now, and
still loving it. A lot of work, but definitely all worth it.

 

[HDRock]

Mix it up accordingly , that's what I do

 

[oldspark]

3 year old Red Oak should be fine, if its not then you might have to go to single rows.