Husqvarna v Chainsaw

[MikeS]

sorry--that would be 0.325 290 with case. Transposed numbers.....

 

[Gooserider]

i fix and run both husky and stihl.
not sure why no one says that a dolmar is a husky. isn't a dolmar a husky from Italy (or some other satellite factory for husky?)
i thought dolmar was like a "swedish Mauser" it looks like a husky to me....and parts interchange.<snip>

Don't know who's been feeding you funny stuff, but that is totally off base - there is NO connection between Husky and Dolmar. Most parts do NOT interchange, other than the fact that some of the Dolmar's use the same bolt pattern as Husky on their bars.

BTW, My Dolmar 7900 has an outside mounted rim sprocket setup, and I believe the 5100s does as well - not sure about the other models - however that doesn't make them Stihl's either....

Dolmar is a German company, used to be Sach's Dolmar at one time, but they have no connection to either Husky or Stihl - however Dolmar does also have a fair collection of "firsts" in the chainsaw industry, they've been at it a long time....

Gooserider

 

[MikeS]

maybe I was thinking Jonsered, not Dolmar.

time to go smoke another one?

 

[sl7vk]

maybe I was thinking Jonsered, not Dolmar.

time to go smoke another one?

Yes, you were thinking Jonsered.....

Dolmar is really making progress in the American market.... Word of mouth and sites like these have to be pushing sales up.

 

[polaris]

I am leaning towards a STIHL Farm Boss instead of Husky Rancher. It seems like there are many more STIHL dealers in my area. I called a few dealers and talked with them about the saws. It seems like they have more Huskies in for service than Stihls.

Which do you think goes in for service more often?

What are the pros and cons of Huskies and Stihls? Do they basically have the same features?

How long do you think a cared for Farm Boss will last?

At 3-4 cords per year a "well cared for" farm boss will last you longer than you'll want to use it.

 

[MikeS]

see my previous post for cons on husky (all minor, as i noted)
con for Stihl is higher cost in some cases.

 

[Brian VT]

My Dolmar 7900 has an outside mounted rim sprocket setup, and I believe the 5100s does as well - not sure about the other models

Yup. Inboard clutch on the 5100S also.
What this means to wankers like me, my dealer told me, is that you don't have to worry about unlocking (or locking?) the brake before removing the side cover.
He said that on some other saws you wouldn't be able to get the cover back on without releasing the locking band, which is a pita.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I am leaning towards a STIHL Farm Boss instead of Husky Rancher. It seems like there are many more STIHL dealers in my area. I called a few dealers and talked with them about the saws. It seems like they have more Huskies in for service than Stihls.

Which do you think goes in for service more often?

What are the pros and cons of Huskies and Stihls? Do they basically have the same features?

How long do you think a cared for Farm Boss will last?

At 3-4 cords per year a "well cared for" farm boss will last you longer than you'll want to use it.

What's to care for? Shake out the air filter every now and then? A new spark plug every 5 years?

I'm going on 6 years with my Farm Boss and apart from the air filter I've never touched it other than to cut wood.

 

[Gooserider]

My Dolmar 7900 has an outside mounted rim sprocket setup, and I believe the 5100s does as well - not sure about the other models

Yup. Inboard clutch on the 5100S also.
What this means to wankers like me, my dealer told me, is that you don't have to worry about unlocking (or locking?) the brake before removing the side cover.
He said that on some other saws you wouldn't be able to get the cover back on without releasing the locking band, which is a pita.

More or less... With the outside mount sprocket, the brake handle and assembly is part of the saw, and stays out of the way except when you are actually working on it, or possibly servicing the clutch itself - both fairly infrequent events. With an inside sprocket, the brake assembly, and especially the band that goes around the clutch drum, is part of the chain cover, and thus has to come off any time you want to remove the bar and/or chain - which is a fairly frequent task. It isn't a big deal if you have the brake in the off position, and keep it that way (You won't get the cover off if the brake is on...) But if you manage to trip the brake while the cover is off, it can definitely be a challenge to reset - the problem is that you don't have any leverage to push against because the cover is such a small part. (w/ my Pull-on, I found the easiest way was to put a couple of drift pins in my big shop vice so that the cover holes for the bar studs fit over them - that gave me the leverage for resetting the brake)

Gooserider

 

[Bigg_Redd]

My Dolmar 7900 has an outside mounted rim sprocket setup, and I believe the 5100s does as well - not sure about the other models

Yup. Inboard clutch on the 5100S also.
What this means to wankers like me, my dealer told me, is that you don't have to worry about unlocking (or locking?) the brake before removing the side cover.
He said that on some other saws you wouldn't be able to get the cover back on without releasing the locking band, which is a pita.

More or less... With the outside mount sprocket, the brake handle and assembly is part of the saw, and stays out of the way except when you are actually working on it, or possibly servicing the clutch itself - both fairly infrequent events. With an inside sprocket, the brake assembly, and especially the band that goes around the clutch drum, is part of the chain cover, and thus has to come off any time you want to remove the bar and/or chain - which is a fairly frequent task. It isn't a big deal if you have the brake in the off position, and keep it that way (You won't get the cover off if the brake is on...) But if you manage to trip the brake while the cover is off, it can definitely be a challenge to reset - the problem is that you don't have any leverage to push against because the cover is such a small part. (w/ my Pull-on, I found the easiest way was to put a couple of drift pins in my big shop vice so that the cover holes for the bar studs fit over them - that gave me the leverage for resetting the brake)

Gooserider

I've only owned Stihls so I've never had to work on a chainsaw.

 

[sl7vk]

My Dolmar 7900 has an outside mounted rim sprocket setup, and I believe the 5100s does as well - not sure about the other models

Yup. Inboard clutch on the 5100S also.
What this means to wankers like me, my dealer told me, is that you don't have to worry about unlocking (or locking?) the brake before removing the side cover.
He said that on some other saws you wouldn't be able to get the cover back on without releasing the locking band, which is a pita.

More or less... With the outside mount sprocket, the brake handle and assembly is part of the saw, and stays out of the way except when you are actually working on it, or possibly servicing the clutch itself - both fairly infrequent events. With an inside sprocket, the brake assembly, and especially the band that goes around the clutch drum, is part of the chain cover, and thus has to come off any time you want to remove the bar and/or chain - which is a fairly frequent task. It isn't a big deal if you have the brake in the off position, and keep it that way (You won't get the cover off if the brake is on...) But if you manage to trip the brake while the cover is off, it can definitely be a challenge to reset - the problem is that you don't have any leverage to push against because the cover is such a small part. (w/ my Pull-on, I found the easiest way was to put a couple of drift pins in my big shop vice so that the cover holes for the bar studs fit over them - that gave me the leverage for resetting the brake)

Gooserider

I've only owned Stihls so I've never had to work on a chainsaw.

So you've never changed a chain or a sprocket....

Wow....

 

[Bigg_Redd]

My Dolmar 7900 has an outside mounted rim sprocket setup, and I believe the 5100s does as well - not sure about the other models

Yup. Inboard clutch on the 5100S also.
What this means to wankers like me, my dealer told me, is that you don't have to worry about unlocking (or locking?) the brake before removing the side cover.
He said that on some other saws you wouldn't be able to get the cover back on without releasing the locking band, which is a pita.

More or less... With the outside mount sprocket, the brake handle and assembly is part of the saw, and stays out of the way except when you are actually working on it, or possibly servicing the clutch itself - both fairly infrequent events. With an inside sprocket, the brake assembly, and especially the band that goes around the clutch drum, is part of the chain cover, and thus has to come off any time you want to remove the bar and/or chain - which is a fairly frequent task. It isn't a big deal if you have the brake in the off position, and keep it that way (You won't get the cover off if the brake is on...) But if you manage to trip the brake while the cover is off, it can definitely be a challenge to reset - the problem is that you don't have any leverage to push against because the cover is such a small part. (w/ my Pull-on, I found the easiest way was to put a couple of drift pins in my big shop vice so that the cover holes for the bar studs fit over them - that gave me the leverage for resetting the brake)

Gooserider

I've only owned Stihls so I've never had to work on a chainsaw.

So you've never changed a chain or a sprocket....

Wow....

I've never changed a sprocket and, so, "wow" that. . .

 

[sl7vk]

My Dolmar 7900 has an outside mounted rim sprocket setup, and I believe the 5100s does as well - not sure about the other models

Yup. Inboard clutch on the 5100S also.
What this means to wankers like me, my dealer told me, is that you don't have to worry about unlocking (or locking?) the brake before removing the side cover.
He said that on some other saws you wouldn't be able to get the cover back on without releasing the locking band, which is a pita.

More or less... With the outside mount sprocket, the brake handle and assembly is part of the saw, and stays out of the way except when you are actually working on it, or possibly servicing the clutch itself - both fairly infrequent events. With an inside sprocket, the brake assembly, and especially the band that goes around the clutch drum, is part of the chain cover, and thus has to come off any time you want to remove the bar and/or chain - which is a fairly frequent task. It isn't a big deal if you have the brake in the off position, and keep it that way (You won't get the cover off if the brake is on...) But if you manage to trip the brake while the cover is off, it can definitely be a challenge to reset - the problem is that you don't have any leverage to push against because the cover is such a small part. (w/ my Pull-on, I found the easiest way was to put a couple of drift pins in my big shop vice so that the cover holes for the bar studs fit over them - that gave me the leverage for resetting the brake)

Gooserider

I've only owned Stihls so I've never had to work on a chainsaw.

So you've never changed a chain or a sprocket....

Wow....

I've never changed a sprocket and, so, "wow" that. . .

Clearly rubbed you the wrong way, but the sprocket is a wear item... like a chain.

You should get that checked out.

 

[polaris]

My Dolmar 7900 has an outside mounted rim sprocket setup, and I believe the 5100s does as well - not sure about the other models

Yup. Inboard clutch on the 5100S also.
What this means to wankers like me, my dealer told me, is that you don't have to worry about unlocking (or locking?) the brake before removing the side cover.
He said that on some other saws you wouldn't be able to get the cover back on without releasing the locking band, which is a pita.

More or less... With the outside mount sprocket, the brake handle and assembly is part of the saw, and stays out of the way except when you are actually working on it, or possibly servicing the clutch itself - both fairly infrequent events. With an inside sprocket, the brake assembly, and especially the band that goes around the clutch drum, is part of the chain cover, and thus has to come off any time you want to remove the bar and/or chain - which is a fairly frequent task. It isn't a big deal if you have the brake in the off position, and keep it that way (You won't get the cover off if the brake is on...) But if you manage to trip the brake while the cover is off, it can definitely be a challenge to reset - the problem is that you don't have any leverage to push against because the cover is such a small part. (w/ my Pull-on, I found the easiest way was to put a couple of drift pins in my big shop vice so that the cover holes for the bar studs fit over them - that gave me the leverage for resetting the brake)

Gooserider

I've only owned Stihl so I've never had to work on a chainsaw.

So you've never changed a chain or a sprocket....

Wow....

I've never changed a sprocket and, so, "wow" that. . .

Clearly rubbed you the wrong way, but the sprocket is a wear item... like a chain.

You should get that checked out.

Sprockets don't wear real quickly on a medium powered saw like the Farm Boss. I have gone through 10+ chains before the sprocket showed any noticeable wear. Stihl, while not the cheapest makes a top notch saw with the best chains in the business(imo) and parts and service are always readily available pretty much worldwide should you ever need them.

 

[Spikem]

probably ran lean, air leask somewhere.

brands, all good. fine points.
There are homeowner LOW end box stores (usually Poulan) tha are ok for limited use. brand name low end husky and stihl both make low ends, and mid range serious use, then pro saws. More money is lighter, better antivibr, and more easily rebuildable. The hard core users adamantly recommend pro saws. but for simple firewood homeowner duty any one will do.

That said, I would NOT buy anything from a box store or lawnmower store. Find a GOOD dealer, and whatever brand that is, buy it. I have several Stihl, but the local dealer is a lawnmower shop who knows little and stocks little. 20 minutes away is a good store with service and parts people. So I would find the good dealer who takes the time to ask about your needs, has saws you can heft and maybe operate in a log. Spend as much as you can afford an buy it once and be done. I would not overbuy, if most of your wood is 18 inches, there is no need for a MS460....... I am partial to about 50 cc for most homeowner serious firewood use. 60+ cc is great, but the weight is noticeable for limbing and cutting small stuff.
Big motors don't cut any faster IF the wood is small enough tonot require the hp. Once you get in bigger stuff, bigger cc is time saved and FUN to drive.


IMO, saws are tools, just like hand tools, handguns, motorcycles, etc etc. once you try several one will just feel 'right' like an extension of your body. Some one else will try the same one and not like it. but it will be right for you.

k

A well thought out post. Kudos!

 

[pretite]

Hi,if i were you i'll go for STIHL. Been using one for years and haven't change this one since the day i bought it.


Regards,
pretite
Link deleted - mod

 

[stee6043]

I nominate Pretite's post for "best revival of the year". Did some deep digging to find this post. HA.

 

[LLigetfa]

I'm sure he washed his hands after digging up that corpse.

 

[Gooserider]

Looked borderline spammish to me, so I took the link out of the post... Will see if he comes back.

Gooserider

 

[Flatbedford]

I actually read the whole thing! I must have too much time on my hands.
I have Stihls and Fords.

 

[polaris]

I nominate Pretite's post for "best revival of the year". Did some deep digging to find this post. HA.

I hope he/she returns. I heard that Magic heats were gov. mandated in France and I wanted to ask how that was working out.

 

[ksting]

I just got a Stihl Wood Boss in July. LOVE IT! It's a little less power and lighter weight then the Farm Boss but a little more money becasue of it's power to weight ratio and anti vibrate feature.