Huskey 345 bogs out ???

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kwikrp

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Oct 21, 2008
299
SE Mass
New fresh gas and oil. Starts nice and easy runs strong then it begins to act like it is running out of gas with loss of power then you have to rev it up couple of times it will be fine then it starts all over again until it stalls and dies. Sometimes I can get it started right up again and it does it again. If I let it sit it starts good and runs freat for sometime until these symptoms start up again. Any ideas
 
If you crack the gas cap does it start running fine again without sitting a long time? Thinking it might be a plugged gas tank vent.
 
Fuel filter!
 
HittinSteel said:
smokinjay said:
Fuel filter!

Might as well change the fuel line while your in there also

I dont unless I have to, its a Pain in the @ss...
 
I have a 345.
Acted that way when new. Just had to get those carb limiters cut off and a little turn of an adjuster and she was fine. But I assume you've already done that.

Acted up again a couple years ago. When I removed the fuel filter it "looked" fine. I washed it in carb cleaner and I think 2+2. (The best stuff, but hard to find now. Probably outlawed like all good stuff.)
Anyway, that seems to have done it.
Have been adding Seafoam to my fuel since then, and also been more diligent about keeping it dry in storage.

Just a couple ideas to try........
 
[quote author="granpajohn" date="1302553412"]I have a 345.
Acted that way when new. Just had to get those carb limiters cut off and a little turn of an adjuster and she was fine. But I assume you've already done that.

No I did not could you elaborate a bit more on how to perform this procedure ?
 
kwikrp said:
granpajohn said:
I have a 345.
Acted that way when new. Just had to get those carb limiters cut off and a little turn of an adjuster and she was fine. But I assume you've already done that.

No I did not could you elaborate a bit more on how to perform this procedure ?

I think this Tim's Tips might have been the best explanation (not sure):
http://www.forestapps.com/tips/carb/carb.htm

In my case, the saw was almost new, so I sought out warranty service/advice, but electrolux (who owned husky then, might still) would only say to have a dealer do it.

Long story short; do what Tims says, (it takes a rather tiny screwdriver). You will find that the screws have little plastic caps, probably for California reasons. Cut them off with sidecutters.
It is amazing how small a turn of that screw makes such a big difference.

There is a lot better explanantions on the web than I can make.

EDIT: Ok I think I found the gold mine here:
(broken link removed)


Let us know.....
 
One last thing...
If you look around, there is somewhere on the web, a sound file (MP3 I guess) that lets you listen to what a saw should sound like as you adjust it. This is pretty useful.
I'm sorry, but I couldn't find it quickly myself. Perhaps a little searching and you can.
 
I spoke with a tech from Huskey and he said it could be the ignition module with heating? I dont think it is I feel it is an adjustment on the carb. What does the L side adjustment do? And the H side ?
 
kwikrp said:
I spoke with a tech from Huskey and he said it could be the ignition module with heating? I dont think it is I feel it is an adjustment on the carb. What does the L side adjustment do? And the H side ?


L is idle and H is top end speed.
 
smokinjay said:
kwikrp said:
I spoke with a tech from Huskey and he said it could be the ignition module with heating? I dont think it is I feel it is an adjustment on the carb. What does the L side adjustment do? And the H side ?


L is idle and H is top end speed.
Low and High...I'm sure you figured out.

I looked in my service book, and found I had written back in 2004:
..."Cut ears off H jet. Very slight twist to the richer (counterclockwise). Worked great."

OK, well since I'm into it now; here is the gist of what I wrote down as the symptoms in my email to electrolux:
"...refuses to run at high speeds. It starts fine and idles beautifully, but the engine chokes itself off whenever the throttle is open beyond about half speed."

Kwikrp, does that sound like your symptom? If so; and if your saw still has that plastic limiter on the L and H screws, this carb adjust is very likely the problem. Because the saw can not run right with those limiters installed. It's a long story, but I've researched this and it is true. (And a sad thing for Husky, and the once great state of California, and OH how we suffer!)

OK; sorry for writing so much. Hope this helps, and Be Not Afraid. (Nothing breaks is you mess up a little)
 
I have had some of my saws doing the same thing. I have also taken some apart to find very small crud and water droplets in the carb diaphragm side where the fuel enters the carb. So I would check that if you can handle it. I have also done the SEAFOAM thing and it works OK. The problem is the ethanol in the gas. I have been told to mix less fuel and go to a plastic container to avoid condensation. Then store your gas in a dry place. This winter has been very wet in our area and I had a difficult time with the water in the gas. I also have been told the ethanol is bad for some of the materials on the saws.
 
I had the same problem with my 390 this year and some seafoam in the tank fixed it right up. Try that first for a quick fix. Funny about using a plastic container, I was told to use metal because plastic can break down with gas over time. I prefer the metal now.
 
I found one of the better adjustment pages:
(broken link removed to http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm)
This has the .wav files for the sound of the saw.
Looks like they also updated it to show the use of a tachometer. I've never used one, but I note that Husky, in their CYA memo, requires it.

If the saw is close to new, Husky claims that the carb adjustment is usually required; due to break in.
 
it starts easy and quickly. Then it runs great for about 10 - 15 minutes then it begins to bog. What I mean is it looses power and does not respond to throttle. Acts like it is running out of fuel. Then it will stall out.
Sometimes when it begins to bog u can get it to idle fast throught it for a few times but then it would stall out.
 
Thats sounds like a crank case seal. If your not low on fuel.
 
Did you check the gas cap? It was the first suggestion in this thread. The cap may be swelling (alot of saws have done this in the past) and as you raw fuel out its creating a low pressure situation in the tank...eventually the low pressure is low enough that the engine can't pull fuel out and it dies. Let it sit for a bit and cool down and the thing pulls enough air inside to bring the pressure back up and you can restart it.

To test this, just run your saw till it dies and you can't restart it. Then open the fuel tank to equalize the air pressure (I bet you hear a good hiss from the cap when you open it), close it and try to restart it. If it starts right up again you just need a new gas cap.

Running seafoam in your mix is a good general idea anyway...helps keep the whole fuel system clean and helps stabilize your fuel for longer storage time.
 
Depending on your climate the metal gas can will be a magnet for condensation. I really like the metal 2 1/2 gallon can I use I have had it for 15 years and it is in great shape. The only problem is if I let it sit for more than a few days it will condensate and get in to the saws.... This could get a bit expensive having to pour out gas; and a bit expensive going to the filling station to get gas for a day or two. The recommendation from the STIHL shop was to dump the gas out of the saws too...
 
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