Husband wants to install a wood stove for emergency heating in our old smallish farm house.

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I am now sharing all my decorating ideas with DH for our soon to be retreat, in our rather ugly unfinished basement, lol.

Oh my. You have stepped over the edge. The slope is slippery. Enjoy the ride;lol We are all looking forward to progress reports. Nice stove. Where did you purchase the stove if I may ask? Locally?
You should consider keeping the horizontal run as short as possible, double wall connector pipe and 2, 45* elbows to complete your 90. Basement installs with long horizontal runs = potentially frustrating smoky start ups/reloads until draft gets established. The horizontal run will also need to run uphill. I believe 1/4" per foot is acceptable. Hopefully others will chime in on these issues.

Menards carries the double wall required.
 
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Eh, it's really all about safety and functionality. You have to insulate the floor and walls to burn a stove without wasting most of the heat. Once it's all insulated, you will really need a comfy chair near the stove so the operator can monitor it for important safety reasons. And without a fridge near the comfy chair, he might be tempted to leave the stove burning unattended, which can have safety and efficiency implications if he's not there to poke at the fire every fifteen minutes. And without a workbench, it'll be tough to properly maintain the refrigerator. And it takes way too much time to go back and forth from the barn to the basement every time you need a tool, so we'll need some tools and pegboard...
And so it begins...
 
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Jetsam, there is a tool bench close by, and a small fridge. But DH isn't much of a beer drinker. He would enjoy reading if its warm and toasty. As far as using the tools, He spends so much time working on farming things in the shop, that he comes in to the house and wants do be done. I'm actually the one who uses some tools in the house. I did some major remodeling several years ago, with DH doing the heavy lifting and the help of several trades people.

Today is the day DD is coming over to help start the clean up. I sorted through a few things last night, but got over whelmed. The 2 kids that could help are living in Washington. But I asked for pointers and they gave them:
  1. draw my floor plan
  2. clean out the space COMPLETELY
  3. Install the stove
  4. fill space with only things in the plan
  5. fire extinguisher and fire escape window
That is a good list to start. Dumpster coming Monday.
 
Oh my. You have stepped over the edge. The slope is slippery. Enjoy the ride;lol We are all looking forward to progress reports. Nice stove. Where did you purchase the stove if I may ask? Locally?
You should consider keeping the horizontal run as short as possible, double wall connector pipe and 2, 45* elbows to complete your 90. Basement installs with long horizontal runs = potentially frustrating smoky start ups/reloads until draft gets established. The horizontal run will also need to run uphill. I believe 1/4" per foot is acceptable. Hopefully others will chime in on these issues.

Menards carries the double wall required.
I got the stove in Clive on 86th street, called The Fireplace Center. So I will need to get the stove as near the chimney as possible so the horizontal isn't an issue; put a 45deg then the short diagonal run with another 45 into the chimney.

QUESTIONS:
  1. when it is recommended to have a 14ft chimney at the minimum, what does that length include? Only the vertical lengths?
  2. Begreen mentioned that the cold air return in the main house had to be 10ft away from the stove. Is that 10ft, centerline to centerline? Or nearest edge to nearest edge?
 
[*]Begreen mentioned that the cold air return in the main house had to be 10ft away from the stove. Is that 10ft, centerline to centerline? Or nearest edge to nearest edge?
[/LIST]
Wait a minute. That is no rookie question. Who are you? Really.
 
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I got the stove in Clive on 86th street, called The Fireplace Center. So I will need to get the stove as near the chimney as possible so the horizontal isn't an issue; put a 45deg then the short diagonal run with another 45 into the chimney.

QUESTIONS:
  1. when it is recommended to have a 14ft chimney at the minimum, what does that length include? Only the vertical lengths?
  2. Begreen mentioned that the cold air return in the main house had to be 10ft away from the stove. Is that 10ft, centerline to centerline? Or nearest edge to nearest edge?

only vertical, it’s the total rise.

you can have a cold air return duct anywhere but the actual intake grate for the cold air return must be 10’. You forgot another possible measurement method, is it with a string from loading door to grate or is it horizontal distance?
 
only vertical, it’s the total rise.

you can have a cold air return duct anywhere but the actual intake grate for the cold air return must be 10’. You forgot another possible measurement method, is it with a string from loading door to grate or is it horizontal distance?
I took a tape measure and laid it on the floor from the edge of the cold air intake, in the living room, to the edge of an imagined edge of the stove in the living room. I come up with 8+feet. So that living room location wouldn't work, according to the 10ft rule. Also DH insists on "no stove in the upstairs...it's too messy". Poor guy.

Living room placement was a scheme I had envisioned early on, when I remembered the old chimney in another location in the living room and kitchen (shared through the wall) that does not go out the roof. I don't even know if it goes into the attic any more. It was probably a location for an old coal or wood burning cook stove in the kitchen. DH is 3rd generation in this home. His mother says that when the house got moved to the current location, the chimney for the kitchen was never used. I am also questioning if it could even get to a 14ft height, because this house is one story, 8ft ceiling, and shallow attic.
 
Tis a fact. Uninsulated basement walls and floors suck up heat quickly. You will be burning a lot more wood due to the lack of insulation. About one stick in three will be heating the earth and outdoors. Not a big deal for just emergency burning, but costly if one buys wood and is trying for wood to be the primary heat source.
 
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Tis a fact. Uninsulated basement walls and floors suck up heat quickly. You will be burning a lot more wood due to the lack of insulation. About one stick in three will be heating the earth and outdoors. Not a big deal for just emergency burning, but costly if one buys wood and is trying for wood to be the primary heat source.

The main wing of my house is all I insulated stone, right around 1 million pounds of the stuff, so the entire place is like one big un-insulated basement. I ran a cast stove that relied almost entirely on radiation to do its heating, and found the walls had a near-infinite capacity to soak up most of the heat I’d generate.

Then I switched to a convective stove, and found it made an enormous difference. I’m still burning the same amount of wood, but much, much less oil on top of it, now. When I shut off the boiler, the house temp drops much less while running on wood, now.
 
The main wing of my house is all I insulated stone, right around 1 million pounds of the stuff, so the entire place is like one big un-insulated basement. I ran a cast stove that relied almost entirely on radiation to do its heating, and found the walls had a near-infinite capacity to soak up most of the heat I’d generate.

Then I switched to a convective stove, and found it made an enormous difference. I’m still burning the same amount of wood, but much, much less oil on top of it, now. When I shut off the boiler, the house temp drops much less while running on wood, now.
What type if stove is the Jotul F 45 Greenville? The brochure comments that the Jotul F 50 TL Rangeley is both a convection/radiant stove, and that it is one of several in a line of convection/radiant stoves.

My electric range has convection, and it works with a fan. Is this how convection wood stoves work?
 
Ok, next question that I have been avoiding.... Can we do the chimney lining ourselves? I have been visiting several chimney supply web sites, and watching a few of their videos on installation. While DH is a farmer, in his younger years he was an aerospace engineer for a few years out in Connecticut. He still knows how to use a slide ruler I believe :) Between the 2 of us we have managed to do a few projects around the house.

It's near planting time, and it's still kind of cold outside, so I don't really think DH will be on board with this project, but I have to ask.
 
Ok, next question that I have been avoiding.... Can we do the chimney lining ourselves? I have been visiting several chimney supply web sites, and watching a few of their videos on installation. While DH is a farmer, in his younger years he was an aerospace engineer for a few years out in Connecticut. He still knows how to use a slide ruler I believe :) Between the 2 of us we have managed to do a few projects around the house.

It's near planting time, and it's still kind of cold outside, so I don't really think DH will be on board with this project, but I have to ask.
There are hundreds of posts here on DIY lining. If the clay liner is large enough it can be fairly straight forward, but it the clay liner has to be broken out to make room for the new insulated liner then you may want to hire this out. Also, age may be a concern for getting up on the roof and ladders.
 
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Ok, next question that I have been avoiding.... Can we do the chimney lining ourselves? I have been visiting several chimney supply web sites, and watching a few of their videos on installation. While DH is a farmer, in his younger years he was an aerospace engineer for a few years out in Connecticut. He still knows how to use a slide ruler I believe :) Between the 2 of us we have managed to do a few projects around the house.

It's near planting time, and it's still kind of cold outside, so I don't really think DH will be on board with this project, but I have to ask.
I would definitely talk to the chimney sweeps about it first, because the liner and installation is probably the most important part of the whole project.
 
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If was an aerospace engineer it should fairly simple for him. Some of us dummies figured it out and we ain't no engineers.
 
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I suggested to DH today, and he is wanting someone else to do it. Though he paused at the prospect. The chimney sweep that gave us a quote, did not include and insulation wrap on the flex stainless 316Ti liner. As I have been visiting here, reading some of the articles, and visiting parts websites, I have learned some things. I went on several websites to look up his spec'd items in the bid. He has some good prices and some that are over what I could find on the web. But again the lack of the liner was concerning to me. I want a liner to help with temp regulation and draw.

If we have our heating and cooling company, DH struck up a relationship with, do it I want to be involved in what they come up with for parts. I'm ok with not doing the job ourselves, but I was thinking of keeping cost down, since I went over budget on the stove.
 
He might not have given the quote for insulating the liner due to the tile size of the current flue. What is the ID of the current chimney tile?
 
There is no tile in the chimney that I can see. The exterior is 16.25” and the interior is 9”.
[Hearth.com] Husband wants to install a wood stove for emergency heating in our old smallish farm house.[Hearth.com] Husband wants to install a wood stove for emergency heating in our old smallish farm house.
 
OY!! That definitely needs an insulated liner. It must be thoroughly cleaned first. Then dropping down a 6" insulated liner should be easy.
 
OY!! That definitely needs an insulated liner. It must be thoroughly cleaned first. Then dropping down a 6" insulated liner should be easy.
What is involved with a thorough cleaning? DH has chimney brushes from the past when he would clean it as a young adult.
 
All creosote removed.
 
So brushes are enough to remove creosote? No soap and water, or its approximate?
If there is no glaze creosote then yes, but considering this is an unlined flue this is a better question for a sweep like @bholler.
 
If there is no glaze creosote then yes, but considering this is an unlined flue this is a better question for a sweep like @bholler.
Brushing may be enough but without seeing it I have no way of knowing
 
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This morning I accepted the Sweeps bid to do the chimney upgrade and to install the stove. I had to leave a message.
I picked up the stove yesterday and it is now sitting in my entry/mud room. It seems to have survived the trip and the tractor.

The cattle are in an approving stance:
[Hearth.com] Husband wants to install a wood stove for emergency heating in our old smallish farm house.[Hearth.com] Husband wants to install a wood stove for emergency heating in our old smallish farm house.

Almost home:
[Hearth.com] Husband wants to install a wood stove for emergency heating in our old smallish farm house.
 
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Same way I moved my old Jotul Firelights, although I think your tractor is bigger.
 
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