my oil boiler has no idea there is a pellet boiler in the mix...I tied into the return lines so all it knows is the return water is hotter..![pipe ::P ::P](/talk/styles/default/xenforo/smileys/zip.gif)
![pipe ::P ::P](/talk/styles/default/xenforo/smileys/zip.gif)
Then just add an aquastat like an a419 and break that circuit. You'll also need a relay to handle the load.my burner has a plug at the burner so you can service it...IE swing the front open to clean (utica tri-fire oil boiler)
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http://nepacrossroads.com/about10917.html This should show a photo of what I mean to add to flue keep heat it,I hope?
Then just add an aquastat like an a419 and break that circuit. You'll also need a relay to handle the load.
Info-info cant get enough info,, somethings you have to keep talking about till somebody hits it on the head and fix the problem, This is a good site with lots of people and ideas. Good luck I will keep checking this I too am baffled with your problem, People here have helped me in the past,Hey ozzy
I have a vent damper and have for 4 years know. please don't take this wrong cuz I appreciate ANY help ...IMHO FIELD CONTROLS oil vent damper http://www.fieldcontrols.com/ovd.php Is a better choice. Let me splane...If you look at the picture you can clearly see the stainless "feathers" on its edges. these work two ways...first they seal the vent quite nicely...thus eliminating leakage. More importantly they clean as well as will go over any crap on the pipe walls left there by oil combustion, and believe me there WILL be crap. Also my unit is ALL stainless. Are you aware oil vent dampers (reliable) were not available for an oil application? Again please dont take this wrong and if you notice I "liked" your post
Iceguy AKA Tony 20 Sharks
fred,
where would you have me install that aquastat? every place on my system will become hot when the oil boiler kicks on...
Since its plumbed in series an aquastat wouldn't work. I'd just put a new simple thermostat in the main living area and set it to 5-6 degrees lower than the the temp you keep the house. Run a pair of thermostat wires from the thermostat to the tt connections on the oil burner primary control.(it should have a jumper that you will need to remove)fred,
where would you have me install that aquastat? every place on my system will become hot when the oil boiler kicks on...
I'm not understandind this...please explain better or pm me and ill call you. I was just down stairs (my wife said i might as well stay there...LOL) this is what I got a 6 zone Taco sr506 controller to handle the zone valves. from the XX termonals on that its wired to the TT termonals on my aquastat to tell the aquastat that there is a call for heat from one of the 6 zones. I disconnected one of the TT wires from the controller and wa -la... no oil boiler . this solves the problem of where I had the boiler disconnected (at the oil burner) this stopped the burner from fireing but my vent damper was open. I could just wire another thermostat to the TT termonals in my basement as a fail safe to prevent my pipes from freezing BUT this is not a seemless integration install. I'm thinking when I add the other building I will need the oil to help my pellet boiler on the coldest days (inlaw apartment and moms not gonna put up with a cold house). I think it all boils down to me needing a new aquastat that is more adjustable then the POS I have. No matter what I do it will not let me adjust the lower limit. Also that delay relay looks good too. Any ideas of what aquastat would hve the adjustability I'm looking for? would like it to be honeywell if possable Lower limit adjust from a lil over 100 to say 160 and high limit from 140 to 180 give or take. thoughts??Ice, have you followed all the thermostat wires, I had one that a electrician wired to the oil boiler switch, so whenever that zone called the oil bolier would kick on, regardless of water temp in my series piped wood boiler. Once I hooked that thermostat to the taco zone conntrol box, no more oil boiler.
Not very long. I have cast iron radiators and have used deep setbacks (50 degrees when I was strictly on oil) I have changed all setbacks to 60 degrees and spent some time synchronizing the clocks in them and staggering the times so they all dont come online at once. Sounds easy but it was time consumingYour pellet low limit seems high.
Also how long are your returns staying at 115*? I know the the PB wants 140* return water if possible, and it sounds like your home takes a while to heat up after you setback.
Thats good. Too bad you are not plumbed P&S or with Thermostatic bypass valve, then you run all the setbacks at the same time, and get a nice clean long cycle. Although having staggered setbacks can accomplish the near the same thing.
Hey Ice,fred,
where would you have me install that aquastat? every place on my system will become hot when the oil boiler kicks on...
Hey Ice,
I did some scratching on a napkin and thought about the following. Tell me where I'm going wrong.
I don't exactly know how you have your system plumbed. but I assume the supply from the PB goes to the return of the OB then OB supplies the zones and return is to the PB.
Try this on: How about mounting an aquastat on the PB output and a 3 way on the return to the PB that will short circuit the PB when OB is powered up. Three way will divert the return water to PB supply so no flow will go through the PB until the new aquastat is satisfied (PB water temp back into set range).
ie. PB cools > aquastat powers OB and switches three way > three way diverts water to output of PB. Alt. PB warms > aquastat activates > opens power to OB and activates three way to allow flow through PB. You'll probably need a swing check downstream from the aquastat and upstream from the bypass connection.
I am just putting a wood boiler this month with storage. I am leaning towards just using a flow switch. If the wood boiler is citrculating hot water it will inhibit the oil burner. My problem with strap on aquastats is the delay in switching due to just sensing pipe temp and not any actual flow.
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