How to Remove an Alderlea T5 Classic Door

[MedicineHorse]

After 6 years of heavy and most satisfying use, and presuming there's nothing wrong with the vent shutting down properly (which is typically a problem), a nearly out of control burn a couple of nights ago with too much oxygen feeding the fire despite the vent being shut down indicates leaks and suggests that I'm overdue to replace door and window gaskets. With the porcelain cast iron finish panel layer over the basic steel firebox assembly, one can't lift off the door to remove it the way one can on some PE models. Consequently it appears I'd need to remove the hinge assembly. However, the side panel on the hinge side covers over the heads of the three bolts of that assembly. One can glimpse them through the crack between the door and the side panel but one doesn't have ready access to those bolt heads. (And while I'm doing that I also want to install a new pin kit as the brass bushing has worn and the door is mildly scuffing the upper edge of the ashlip/apron at the front bottom.)
What is the trick to getting that hinge off?

(BEGREEN are you there?)

 

[coreboy83]

I had no issues replacing my door gasket last year, while it was in place. A bit uncomfortable sitting like that, but it was straight forward and basic. I've had no issues with the roller catch on the door latch, I've sprayed powder graphite with short term results.

 

[begreen]

It's been years since I have pulled the door. The last time I did the gasket with the door on. Using RTV adhesive made the process a bit easier. IIRC, after the bottom stop arm is disconnected, that the door lifted off of the bottom pin first, then pulled off of the upper pin at a slight angle. It's a heavy door on the T6 and I am not sure if I did it correctly This was about 10 yrs ago.

 

[bcrtops]

Yea ..... that hinge system is the weakest point on my stove. Replace brass with steel washer(s) & lubricate every year with graphite. I've had my door fall out in my hand with hot stove more than once due to defective (short pin) on the top hinge. I've had my door off numerous times, but nevertheless replaced the gasket last summer while door still on the stove.

 

[MedicineHorse]

Thanks everyone. I guess my bottom pin must be extra long, because even with the lifted door pressing hard against the porcelain cast top trim, I can't get that pin to clear the hinge bracket to lift the door off. I was able to at least replace the door gasket while the door was still attached, and this has improved performance. I think it's still leaking though much less. As the seal seems plenty tight but as there still appears to be some unregulated air leaking in, I'll replace the window gasket next time we get a warm spell and I should think that will do the trick. However, the brass bushing still needs to be replaced or a small metal washer inserted beneath the original bushing to ensure the door doesn't scrape along the ashlip when opening and closing, and for that obviously the door must come off. Fortunately there is a good service guy locally I can contact for that. I'd just hoped that wouldn't be necessary. At least I'll be able to learn from him what I must do in the future, or perhaps we'll be able to shorter the bottom pin enough that I'm able to lift the door off in the future. Meanwhile, thanks again everyone for your quick response to my original query.

Happy fires all.

 

[bcrtops]

Those are hardened steel pins that are press fit into the cast iron door. The pin has likely worked its way down making it impossible to lift off the bracket. The 1st time the door fell out on me with a hot stove, it was the brass shim that wore out, allowing the top to come out of the bracket. Replaced the brass bushing with a steel washer. A year later, this happened to me again -- the top pin had gotten too short by working down -- it wasn't made long enough for the hole in the cast iron. I pulled the pin and cut a little piece of 16p nail and dropped into the hole, replacing the pin on top of it which kept the pin a proper length to stay in the top bracket. Haven't had a problem with the door since.

 

[begreen]

Thanks everyone. I guess my bottom pin must be extra long, because even with the lifted door pressing hard against the porcelain cast top trim, I can't get that pin to clear the hinge bracket to lift the door off. I was able to at least replace the door gasket while the door was still attached, and this has improved performance. I think it's still leaking though much less. As the seal seems plenty tight but as there still appears to be some unregulated air leaking in, I'll replace the window gasket next time we get a warm spell and I should think that will do the trick. However, the brass bushing still needs to be replaced or a small metal washer inserted beneath the original bushing to ensure the door doesn't scrape along the ashlip when opening and closing, and for that obviously the door must come off. Fortunately there is a good service guy locally I can contact for that. I'd just hoped that wouldn't be necessary. At least I'll be able to learn from him what I must do in the future, or perhaps we'll be able to shorter the bottom pin enough that I'm able to lift the door off in the future. Meanwhile, thanks again everyone for your quick response to my original query.

Happy fires all.

There is always some unregulated air entering the firebox of modern EPA stoves. In the T5 it enters in 3 locations. This is to avoid the possibility of a smoldering fire and to provide air for easier startups.

 

[MedicineHorse]

There is always some unregulated air entering the firebox of modern EPA stoves. In the T5 it enters in 3 locations. This is to avoid the possibility of a smoldering fire and to provide air for easier startups.

Thanks begreen. I'm just going on my fuzzy memory of the stove's performance in its earlier years. Methinks it had better control then, but perhaps I'm mistaken.

 

[MedicineHorse]

Those are hardened steel pins that are press fit into the cast iron door. The pin has likely worked its way down making it impossible to lift off the bracket. The 1st time the door fell out on me with a hot stove, it was the brass shim that wore out, allowing the top to come out of the bracket. Replaced the brass bushing with a steel washer. A year later, this happened to me again -- the top pin had gotten too short by working down -- it wasn't made long enough for the hole in the cast iron. I pulled the pin and cut a little piece of 16p nail and dropped into the hole, replacing the pin on top of it which kept the pin a proper length to stay in the top bracket. Haven't had a problem with the door since.

Interesting, bctrops, Thanks. That makes sense. Arguably a design flaw as it sounds inevitable given the heat expansion and contraction of steel.

 

[begreen]

Thanks begreen. I'm just going on my fuzzy memory of the stove's performance in its earlier years. Methinks it had better control then, but perhaps I'm mistaken.

It's going to vary from load to load. Even with the same species wood, the fire can vary with how tightly it is packed, split thickness, draft strength, etc. On colder days, draft will be stronger.