How to remediate install of wood-burning insert?

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fireplace-student

New Member
Jan 22, 2025
4
Ontario, Canada
We had a reputable masonry company removed our old zero-clearance heatilator unit and install a Supreme Fusion24 wood-burning insert in its place.

Unfortunately, after the installation was done, we read in the install manual that the insert is only appropriate for code-approved masonry fireplaces, and as you could see from photos we are lacking some things that are standard in a masonry fireplace. The installer says that they can do another pass over the work and rectify gaps and clearances to ensure it meets code, however even if the clearances and gaps are rectified, it still doesn't look like a masonry fireplace. I note no smoke shelf, not really a proper smoke chamber, etc.

I am seeking advice on what the best course of action would be to remediate. If the installer fixes the gaps and clearances, is that enough to safely operate a wood-burning insert? Or is this really just a situation where patching up the masonry will not work, and we need to change to re-do the job with a zero-clearance unit instead?

Photos below. Here you can see the old healitalor unit:
[Hearth.com] How to remediate install of wood-burning insert?

Once the old unit was taken out, a firebox was created by installer to house the wood-burning insert:
[Hearth.com] How to remediate install of wood-burning insert?


The wood insert is added, with a stainless flex liner running up the length of the chimney. A batt of insulation sits on top of the unit (not pictured), but the liner was not insulated, so we do get a very nasty cold draft right now:

[Hearth.com] How to remediate install of wood-burning insert?

New liner goes up through this opening:
[Hearth.com] How to remediate install of wood-burning insert?

And the finished product:
[Hearth.com] How to remediate install of wood-burning insert?
 
We had a reputable masonry company removed our old zero-clearance heatilator unit and install a Supreme Fusion24 wood-burning insert in its place.

Unfortunately, after the installation was done, we read in the install manual that the insert is only appropriate for code-approved masonry fireplaces, and as you could see from photos we are lacking some things that are standard in a masonry fireplace. The installer says that they can do another pass over the work and rectify gaps and clearances to ensure it meets code, however even if the clearances and gaps are rectified, it still doesn't look like a masonry fireplace. I note no smoke shelf, not really a proper smoke chamber, etc.

I am seeking advice on what the best course of action would be to remediate. If the installer fixes the gaps and clearances, is that enough to safely operate a wood-burning insert? Or is this really just a situation where patching up the masonry will not work, and we need to change to re-do the job with a zero-clearance unit instead?

Photos below. Here you can see the old healitalor unit:
View attachment 335632

Once the old unit was taken out, a firebox was created by installer to house the wood-burning insert:
View attachment 335634


The wood insert is added, with a stainless flex liner running up the length of the chimney. A batt of insulation sits on top of the unit (not pictured), but the liner was not insulated, so we do get a very nasty cold draft right now:

View attachment 335635

New liner goes up through this opening:
View attachment 335636

And the finished product:
View attachment 335637
Ok you didn't have a zero clearance fireplace you had a heat form inside a masonry structure. As long as they closed up the face properly with insulation on the liner and a blockoff plate i think your fine. You don't need a smoke shelf even for an open fireplace they are absolutely pointless functionally
 
Ok you didn't have a zero clearance fireplace you had a heat form inside a masonry structure. As long as they closed up the face properly with insulation on the liner and a blockoff plate i think your fine. You don't need a smoke shelf even for an open fireplace they are absolutely pointless functionally
That's no insulation on the liner or blockoff plate. These things are needed to reduce cold air draft? Or they are part of ensuring enough clearance to combustibles?

I think it would be hard to install a blockoff plate because there are some wide gaps due to the irregular structure of the masonry. See additional photos of the space around the SS liner cavity once the face was almost fully closed up, you can see a good deal of open space.
 

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That's no insulation on the liner or blockoff plate. These things are needed to reduce cold air draft? Or they are part of ensuring enough clearance to combustibles?

I think it would be hard to install a blockoff plate because there are some wide gaps due to the irregular structure of the masonry. See additional photos of the space around the SS liner cavity once the face was almost fully closed up, you can see a good deal of open space.
Blockoff plate is to reduce drafts insulation on the liner is for both performance and safety
 
Final install looks nice, stay warm and lighter up!
 
Final install looks nice, stay warm and lighter up!
Thank you. Are you sure? :) I ask because I have talked informally with several inspectors in my area and they are all really concerned about the install. They are not sure that the clearances to combustibles are correct, they think there are too many gaps/voids around the liner in the masonry, the smoke chamber isn't smooth or parged, they're worried about the electrical box inside the cavity so close to the insert. It's really hard to tell if these are real issues or just inspectors being overly cautious.
 
Blockoff plate is to reduce drafts insulation on the liner is for both performance and safety
Thanks! I must say I'm a bit puzzled. I have talked informally with several inspectors in my area and they are all really concerned about the install. They are not sure that the clearances to combustibles are correct, they think there are too many gaps/voids around the liner in the masonry, the smoke chamber isn't smooth or parged, they're worried about the electrical box inside the cavity so close to the insert. It's really hard to tell if these are real issues or just inspectors being overly cautious.
 
Voids around a liner are not an issue, distance to combustibles is. Pulling a liner through a 2 ft dia masonry has void galore but is not an issue because of those voids (it could be an issue if the liner isn't insulated and combustibles are within 1" of the masonry).

Whether or not a smoke shelf is present or not is of no consequence.
 
I was referring to "looks nice" in physical appearance, not privy to it being according to local code by pictures only. Did an inspector fail the install and told you you cannot use it?
 
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Thanks! I must say I'm a bit puzzled. I have talked informally with several inspectors in my area and they are all really concerned about the install. They are not sure that the clearances to combustibles are correct, they think there are too many gaps/voids around the liner in the masonry, the smoke chamber isn't smooth or parged, they're worried about the electrical box inside the cavity so close to the insert. It's really hard to tell if these are real issues or just inspectors being overly cautious.
Yes the gaps absolutely need filled. That's what I meant by as long as they closed the face up properly. I didn't notice the outlet. Unless it's approved by the insert manufacturer it shouldn't be there
 
On a side note what a hack job from the original mason! wtf!