How to cut a large diameter tree on the ground with a 16" bar

[Mike PA]

How about noodling at the end of the log, and then blocking??

that's a good idea, too. I guess it depends on whether or not he can use 16" long splits. He'd only be able to noodle in 16" so that's all the longer he could make the pieces.

Come to think of it, I've never noodled with the saw buried. I've only noodled with a bit of the tip out and a good space for the noodles to come out at the saw. I'd be inclined to think that noodling would get a mess of noodles clogged in the saw if he's buried to the spikes.

Yup. The noodles get caught up under the clutch cover, more so on some saws than others. Gotta clean them out periodically. He doesn't need to limit himself to 16" lengths, as he can rotate the saw at different starting points instead of just from the end.

 

[Danno77]

[I see what you are saying now, but I would never think of starting a cut that way. Good to point out to folks who might, however.

A long time ago, I was a newbie and I did a lot of searching through threads. I'd read the replies and think, geesh, I hope the OP knows what they are talking about, because it's gibberish to me. So when I post something that I think might come up in some newbie's search, I like to throw in some basic concepts because you just never know. It's never intended to be something I think the OP doesn't know, or that I think an OP is stupid, I'd rather say something useless about safety and have the comment ignored, than to leave something out and have some nameless face out there hurt themselves because they were armed with just enough knowledge to be dangerous.

BTW nice drawings. How do you do them?

the Paint program that comes with Windows. (I know you are shocked/impressed now, I can do custom work if you need it, lol) Even my avatar was done with Paint...

 

[Battenkiller]

A long time ago, I was a newbie and I did a lot of searching through threads. I'd read the replies and think, geesh, I hope the OP knows what they are talking about, because it's gibberish to me. So when I post something that I think might come up in some newbie's search, I like to throw in some basic concepts because you just never know. It's never intended to be something I think the OP doesn't know, or that I think an OP is stupid, I'd rather say something useless about safety and have the comment ignored, than to leave something out and have some nameless face out there hurt themselves because they were armed with just enough knowledge to be dangerous.

Much appreciated, Danno. I read all of these type threads but rarely contribute. Most of everything I used to do was wrong I'm sure. I quit felling trees entirely when I had a leaning cherry barber chair on me so bad I nearly pooped myself. I have been buying c/s/d for so long I hardly ever used the little Stihl except for yard work. Now that I have a real saw, it's great to get non-condescending advice from guys like you and Jay and Mike and others. My hero days are long past, and I want to get back into this as safely as possible. I'm treating this new saw like I'm a complete newbie. Thanks all for setting us "newbies" straight.

 

[muncybob]

Danno, I'm still a green horn at cutting but I do know the basics and am very respectful of my saw.....but even if I were a verteran at this it's always good to be reminded of things from time to time!
Just the other day I was not paying enough attention and experiened some kickback while too far over the saw....after I was done calling myself stupid (and lucky) I remembered what I have been reading and been told. You can never hear "smart advice" too much!

 

[oldspark]

BK as I get older I start to question what I have done for years, I do not wear chaps or a hard hat when I cut wood, but now thanks to hearth I have to spend more money on PPE.

 

[smokinj]

Just like my avatar over the top as far as you can get..3 pivot points!

That's the way I was shown and have always done it. Lots of vids on YouTube of pros with obviously good technique always seem to do it that way, so it can't be bad. My little 011 only has a 14" bar, so I've experienced plenty of that kind of cutting. Never anything that big, but lots of stuff in the 18-24" range. Never had a problem except how slow my saw was. Of course, I always ran safety chain on that one, but you guys hipped me to full chisel, so me and the 357 are ready.

pivot points are only good if you can get all the way around the log. right?

No take out the top first and the 2nd two points will be will be on both sides pretty low...I have done many of logs in the 59-61 in range with a 28 in. bar. All 3 piviot points will move 3-12 inchs to get a max cut.

 

[bogydave]

Don't know if this would work on oak but it did on a big birch that I couldn't roll.
I had a 14" bar.(net about 12-1/2") cut one side all the way. then did the next round the same way. Stood on the log & split that half off both partial cut rounds, (a wedge would work here too)
finished the first round cut, (which was a 1/2 round)
Lot lighter to lift into the truck too.
Worked my way up the log to where the saw could cut full rounds.

Went & got a 20" Husqvarna, biggest birch I've cut here since was 26", no problems, just heavy so I split the big ones in half before loading.

 

[Danno77]

No take out the top first and the 2nd two points will be will be on both sides pretty low...I have done many of logs in the 59-61 in range with a 28 in. bar. All 3 piviot points will move 3-12 inchs to get a max cut.

Jay, I still don't understand the geometry of how one could get a bar that is too short into the middle of a log by just pivoting. a circle is a circle and the radius is the same at all points around it, there's no breaking that rule. I need a picture to show me how it's possible.

 

[TreePointer]

I know the goal usually is to save money by using the tools we already have, but a larger saw might be just the ticket. In my area, I can rent a Jonsered 2171 (Husqvarna 372XP) or a Makita 6401 with 20-24" bars. (Are you sure you don't have a neighbor with an MS660? )

I also like the idea of using a longer bar on your saw for this job. If you don't have a second saw around to cut yourself out of a pinch, having a second bar around is the next best thing (that is, of course, if your saw has an inboard clutch).

 

[firefighterjake]

Looks like that tomato sitting on a large round rock is a goner! :lol:

 

[smokinj]

No take out the top first and the 2nd two points will be will be on both sides pretty low...I have done many of logs in the 59-61 in range with a 28 in. bar. All 3 piviot points will move 3-12 inchs to get a max cut.

Jay, I still don't understand the geometry of how one could get a bar that is too short into the middle of a log by just pivoting. a circle is a circle and the radius is the same at all points around it, there's no breaking that rule. I need a picture to show me how it's possible.

Don't know geometry but I look at a log in 1/3's (And start on the top 1/3) there is always a flat spot on every log somewhere this helps as well know when you hit that flat spot is priceless lol. I do most tree's in the 40in+ and for years only had a 28 in. bar....Really comes down to trigger time and only heaving as small bar. Good sharp true chain is a must.

 

[Danno77]

ok, Jay, I think I understand. You are talking about cutting logs that are bigger than your saw. I Hear ya, there, that's very similar to what i do. I think I was confused because I thought you were saying that you could cut logs that were more than 2x your bar length (like 5-10inches bigger). THAT'S what I couldn't figure out.

 

[smokinj]

ok, Jay, I think I understand. You are talking about cutting logs that are bigger than your saw. I Hear ya, there, that's very similar to what i do. I think I was confused because I thought you were saying that you could cut logs that were more than 2x your bar length (like 5-10inches bigger). THAT'S what I couldn't figure out.

You can. Logs are not perfectly round exploit the flat spots and you can gain a few extra inch's here and there just depends on the log....I have done 61in. maple with a 28in. bar. I dont have to anymore...Yeah!

 

[Danno77]

ok, Jay, I think I understand. You are talking about cutting logs that are bigger than your saw. I Hear ya, there, that's very similar to what i do. I think I was confused because I thought you were saying that you could cut logs that were more than 2x your bar length (like 5-10inches bigger). THAT'S what I couldn't figure out.

You can. Logs are not perfectly round exploit the flat spots and you can gain a few extra inch's here and there just depends on the log....I have done 61in. maple with a 28in. bar.

ok, ok, I'll give you that. IF they aren't perfectly round, and the narrowest spot has a diameter that is equal to or less than 2x your bar, then it can be done... maybe even getting just a teensy 2-4" piece holding on in the center can be busted by the use of wedges...

 

[smokinj]

ok, Jay, I think I understand. You are talking about cutting logs that are bigger than your saw. I Hear ya, there, that's very similar to what i do. I think I was confused because I thought you were saying that you could cut logs that were more than 2x your bar length (like 5-10inches bigger). THAT'S what I couldn't figure out.

You can. Logs are not perfectly round exploit the flat spots and you can gain a few extra inch's here and there just depends on the log....I have done 61in. maple with a 28in. bar.

ok, ok, I'll give you that. IF they aren't perfectly round, and the narrowest spot has a diameter that is equal to or less than 2x your bar, then it can be done... maybe even getting just a teensy 2-4" piece holding on in the center can be busted by the use of wedges...

Yes and the bigger the log the more chance to pick up extra inchs on flat spots.

 

[Jim Stokes]

Yes and the bigger the log the more chance to pick up extra inchs on flat spots.

I am in the small-time firewood business, and get "rescue" logs (rescued from going to the dump)...someone else has dropped the trees, usually neighbors have scavenged the limbs, leaving big wood. Few years ago I moved up to the 20" Poulan, but was presented with a 42" red oak that I feared I couldn't get thru, so I picked up a old 4' one man saw from a flea market! Used it to cut the center. My problem is having the cuts match up, usually caused by uneven sharpening or poor steering. I keep getting + 40" logs, so I got a 24" bar which helps.
I keep dreaming about a 60" bar on a hydraulic chainsaw, mounted on my Dingo.
Anyone have any hints on how to draw a line around a log, to help guide us wandering sawyers?

 

[peakbagger]

Wrap a string around the log and mark the line with chalk.

I have seen folks cut down as far as they can go on either side of the log and from the top then take a splitting wedge and split the cut section out of the way. That frees up space for the saw to cut down further and then they repeat. I expect after one of these logs they either buy a bigger saw or buy smaller wood.

The pulp mill I used to work for set aside large diameter logs (anything over about 3 feet as our conveying equipment could not handle them. A few times a year they would bring in tractor trailer sized splitter and split the logs into sizes we could handle. Some of the wood was impressive, especially the hardwoods. Not many 3' diameter hardwoods left in the wood in the the far north of New England after a couple of hundred of years of logging. Usually gnarly old yellow birches without any straight grain to speak of.

 

[SpaceBus]

Rent a large pro saw.

 

[kennyp2339]

I saw a video once of a guy in Canada take a large diameter log, ripped a groove into it with a smaller chainsaw length wise, then used a bunch of splitting wedges to half the log, it looked like a lot of work but it seemed reasonable since he was cutting a 40" diameter trunk.

 

[SpaceBus]

I saw a video once of a guy in Canada take a large diameter log, ripped a groove into it with a smaller chainsaw length wise, then used a bunch of splitting wedges to half the log, it looked like a lot of work but it seemed reasonable since he was cutting a 40" diameter trunk.

I would use an Alaskan chainsaw mill and some guide rails.