How to cut a large diameter tree on the ground with a 16" bar

[muncybob]

Looks like I may be bucking a large oak that is laying on the ground. It's got to be at least 30"-36" diameter and probably 30' long....how do I approach this project? All I have is my saw, a couple small plastic wedges and a pry/crow bar. In my feable mind I'm thinking cut as far as I can from the top and hope I can roll it over to cut from the other side.....but, I'm fearful of the saw being pinched.
Any better approach to this? Or should I pass on this since my bar is only 16"?

 

[gzecc]

Its all relative. Your experience, creativity, saw power, etc. I could and would do it with the right saw (if that was all I had). However I know quite a few people that should not attempt it.
A man needs to know his limitations.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

Don't cut the first rounds out of the base. Cut what you can handle first as the trunk is thinner up top and it may be easier to handle reduced weight.

a 4" round piece in the middle after cutting will be a serious pain to break. Get a buddy with a bigger saw to help out on those cuts.

 

[Got Wood]

I did a similar sized oak last year with a 16" bar. I'm no expert but what I did was make the top cuts first, going as deep as I could - keeping a close eye on the cut pulling out when I saw it starting to pinch. Worked one side of the log, then the other. Once that was done I used a crow bar at a point that I could get the end off the ground to cut off a section. Once the section was off I rolled it over to finish the cuts. Repeated until I finished the tree. Getting the crow bar in place and lifting the trunk was work - once it was off the ground I slid something (like a rock, branch or split) under it. It usually took a few steps to get it off far enough. Real hard to do working alone, having a partner would make it much easier.
Good luck

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Bob, you fear a pinched bar. As you are cutting, keep an eye on the kerf. If that space shows the slightest sign of starting to come together, jerk the saw out quickly. But I would simply cut as much as possible all the way on the log and then roll that sucker over to finish the cuts. A 16" bar should be okay for that size log. Rolling though might require a cant hook, which most everyone should own. They are a very handy tool.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

A floor jack (placed on plywood before you start bucking) or pinch point bar are nice to have for the bigguns.

Planning so that the tree balances with the trunk off the ground when possible is the best. Then you slice off rounds that fall rather than having to lift/roll it.

 

[CJRages]

Don't cut the first rounds out of the base. Cut what you can handle first as the trunk is thinner up top and it may be easier to handle reduced weight.

a 4" round piece in the middle after cutting will be a serious pain to break. Get a buddy with a bigger saw to help out on those cuts.

I am trying to imagine cutting something 36" with a 16" bar. Like AP said there would be at least 4" (36"-(16"x2)) in the middle that you would not be able to reach. However, if you were able to cut the top of the log, then roll over and cut the other side, then you would need to cut a wedge out of the log at a min. of 4" deep to allow your saw blade into the middle and finish the cut. Try to be accurate with those initial cuts, it might be difficult to line them up so you end the same place you began.

Maybe the middle of the tree is hollow/rotten? Then it would be no problem.

 

[Danno77]

BTDT.

1. Get an old chain that you aren't afraid to send into the dirt.
2. Disclaimer that this requires cutting straight down through a log, that means that you are gonna need to be careful how you approach the log, because if you don't use the right technique you are gonna hit the log with the tip of your saw as you begin the cut. refer to the picture below for how to START the cut safely.
3. first step is to break the log into smaller manageable pieces. this could be 3 10ft pieces, or it may be 5 or 6 pieces. when possible, cut through points that are less than 32" so it doesn't waste wood.
4. refer to picture to see that you can use a smaller bar to get through a large log. pythagorean theorum you can determine that making a wedge shaped cut will give you two 16" sides and a 12" side (or whatever you need to be able to fit your saw in further) this makes a cut that is only 14.8" deep, but allows you to then get your saw into the cut to get the remaining few inches you need. it may be necessary to take a wedge from both sides or only one.

 

[ramonbow]

A few thoughts: a 30' log 30" wide is not going to roll very easily.
whereever it is currently off the ground you should jam some splits or branches under there to keep the log from falling into the dirt.
start at the small end.
when you get to the point where you can't reach the middle from either side i would suggest finishing it with a hand saw or removing a couple of splits to gain access with your chainsaw.
bring a big truck because that is going to be a lot of wood!

 

[CJRages]

I really like Danno's idea too... especially if the log is too large/odd shaped to roll.

 

[muncybob]

Some good points made, thanx to all. This will probably be a true learning experience for me. I've cut some large trunks before but was lucky enough that they were mostly raised off the round...this one appears to be mostly on the ground and does have a few large branch cutoffs that may make rolling difficult. Once it stops raining I'll be sure to take my camera with me when the cutting begins.

 

[smokinj]

Just like my avatar over the top as far as you can get..3 pivot points!

 

[basod]

Smokinjay
I don't think this tree would be much of an issue with that 880/41 combo

 

[smokinj]

Smokinjay
I don't think this tree would be much of an issue with that 880/41 combo

No There's no issue when That thing fires-up. Even spectators go running...lol

 

[Battenkiller]

if you don't use the right technique you are gonna hit the log with the tip of your saw as you begin the cut

Why would that be a problem with the way you are cutting in the diagram? The danger zone for kickback is at the top corner of the bar tip, isn't it? Looks like the bar would only touch on the bottom corner of the bar in your drawing.

 

[Danno77]

if you don't use the right technique you are gonna hit the log with the tip of your saw as you begin the cut

Why would that be a problem with the way you are cutting in the diagram? The danger zone for kickback is at the top corner of the bar tip, isn't it? Looks like the bar would only touch on the bottom corner of the bar in your drawing.

for a split second your bar will only be touching on the bottom, but as soon as your tip is an inch or two deep, then you have only a few inches of the bottom of the bar and the tip is at risk of really catching.

I, personally, only make sure I am a little more aware of my stance and potential danger zone if a kickback would occur, and make sure I'm running wide open and then cut away. It's important to know risky cuts just so you can be extra cautious, not to scare you completely away from doing them.

maybe this picture gets the idea across a little better.

 

[Battenkiller]

Just like my avatar over the top as far as you can get..3 pivot points!

That's the way I was shown and have always done it. Lots of vids on YouTube of pros with obviously good technique always seem to do it that way, so it can't be bad. My little 011 only has a 14" bar, so I've experienced plenty of that kind of cutting. Never anything that big, but lots of stuff in the 18-24" range. Never had a problem except how slow my saw was. Of course, I always ran safety chain on that one, but you guys hipped me to full chisel, so me and the 357 are ready.

 

[Danno77]

Just like my avatar over the top as far as you can get..3 pivot points!

That's the way I was shown and have always done it. Lots of vids on YouTube of pros with obviously good technique always seem to do it that way, so it can't be bad. My little 011 only has a 14" bar, so I've experienced plenty of that kind of cutting. Never anything that big, but lots of stuff in the 18-24" range. Never had a problem except how slow my saw was. Of course, I always ran safety chain on that one, but you guys hipped me to full chisel, so me and the 357 are ready.

pivot points are only good if you can get all the way around the log. right?

 

[CJRages]

Looks like that tomato sitting on a large round rock is a goner! :lol:

 

[Danno77]

Looks like that tomato sitting on a large round rock is a goner! :lol:

lol, I know you aren't mocking my amazing MS-Paint skills!

Forget photoshop, etc. I'm old-school.

 

[Mike PA]

Get an 18" or 20" bar for your saw. Even if your saw isn't powerful enough to run it well, take your time. Get yourself plastic wedges. They will eliminate the pinching concern. Wedges are your friend.

As others said, start a the small end of the log and work your way down. When the logs get big, do as smokinjay says. When they get bigger, you can do as Danno says. Just be careful to start your bore cut with the lower quadrant of your bar. Start to cut like you would normally, then pull the tip of the saw to the middle of the log and rotate the handle of the saw up while applying modest pressure at the tip. While you are rotating the saw up, the tip should be starting to bore into the wood. Once the tip is in, you can rotate the saw to 90º and push straight in with no fear of kickback. You can also noodle the logs to take chunks off the sides.

 

[CaddyUser]

How about noodling at the end of the log, and then blocking??

 

[Danno77]

How about noodling at the end of the log, and then blocking??

that's a good idea, too. I guess it depends on whether or not he can use 16" long splits. He'd only be able to noodle in 16" so that's all the longer he could make the pieces.

Come to think of it, I've never noodled with the saw buried. I've only noodled with a bit of the tip out and a good space for the noodles to come out at the saw. I'd be inclined to think that noodling would get a mess of noodles clogged in the saw if he's buried to the spikes.

 

[Battenkiller]

for a split second your bar will only be touching on the bottom, but as soon as your tip is an inch or two deep, then you have only a few inches of the bottom of the bar and the tip is at risk of really catching.

I see what you are saying now, but I would never think of starting a cut that way. Good to point out to folks who might, however.

I went fishing with a couple of buddies this weekend. One of them brought along his 029 and it was pretty funny watching him use it like a hand saw... back and forth, and with a dull chain to boot. Took him about a minute to get through each cut of a 10" punky hemlock log, then right into the dirt and on to the next cut. :lol: No PPE either. He said he didn't need it because he was watching the bar very carefully (with his face right over the saw). All I could do was cringe and hope for the best. You know, you really can't say anything to a buddy in those circumstances because he won't listen. Just make sure I know where the keys to his Jeep were was the best I could do.

BTW nice drawings. How do you do them?

 

[Battenkiller]

Looks like that tomato sitting on a large round rock is a goner! :lol:

lol, I know you aren't mocking my amazing MS-Paint skills!

Forget photoshop, etc. I'm old-school.

Ah, ah! I'm stuck with Photoshop. My kid bought it for me with his school discount, but won't take the time to teach me how to draw in it. He'd rather shake his head and laugh at the old man. I'm pretty good at photo fixes, but the brat's a wiz at drawing in it and he won't share. lol