How to burn wood pellets in 2006 Auburn corn burner

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The wiring is correct and hooked up. The extra wire in there is a 3rd wire coming off the motor that is not used. The new motors come as a 2 wire.
My bad! I got confused and was looking at Lordtimothys pic :) That is a good pic of what thewiring should look like. If the ash traps were not brushed out and the stove hooked to a leaf blower it will never run right. I just got a Auburn going yesterday that looked pristineinside and out untilI started running a brush up the ash traps. I got probably a coffee can of ash and rust out of each side. Then hooked up leaf blower and sucked it out. Went from less that .1 iwc to .3 iwc
 
Ugh. I've cleaned this thing so many times, but I guess I'll be buying something that can reach back where everyone keeps saying they clog so bad, since I'll be at Menards buying a door gasket anyway.
It was transported laying on it's side so seems like stuff would have come loose during the ride.
My daughter burns a used Harman they bought used for $200 and they barely clean it. It's never had an issue in 5 years theyve used it to heat their house. Its what sold me on pellet stoves.
I told her my vaccum switch was bypassed.
She said " whats a vaccuum switch?".
 
Consider yourself fortunate you found one that cheap. Been not so seriously looking for another USSC 6039 like I have now, for the shop and there was one on Flea Bay about 2 hours from me. Guy was asking 1300 for it and it looked beat. I offered him 500 bucks which he turned down. Was the old style obsolete board and had a terrible paint job. Told him to keep my email address and when it didn't sell, my 500 cash offer stood. Wanted to ask him what he was smoking but I didn't.

Can buy a new one for 1300.
Yeah, I saw a few listings for $1000 and up. They sell refurbished ones for $1400 and that includes shipping! A big plus for someone who doesn't have a pickup.
I realize $300 is a great price. But I started looking in July..JULY! It took being beat to the punch a half dozen times, being called names for daring to suggest a lower price (seriously folks could just say "sorry, I cant do that") planning a road trip with my scattered- brained gf who has a pick-up 3 times, only to call it off at the last minute because stove sold before I could get there, FINALLY driving across the whole state of Iowa, loading, getting lost, spending a night in motel hell, unloading it on the dolly where it sat for 3 weeks until I could ($70 worth of pipe stove at Menards later) hook it up, which involved standing it up using my car jack( I have pictures) and took 2 days because I didnt have another person to help, only to have my house fill with smoke 3 nights in a row as I attempted repeatedly to light it. Discover an unhooked pressure switch. Hook it up thinking that MUST be the problem, light it again, still end up with smoke as the exhaust fan shuts down over and over.
It's now December and I still dont have heat! So, I kind of lost it last night. I would have kicked the thing except I knew it would only break my toes.
 

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By the way, sorry to hear about your husband. Losing a mate is tough.

The door not sealing correctly could be the reason they have tried to bypass the vacuum switch. Ever so often I run into it dumping way to much corn in the burn pot, almost always the reason is a strong north wind. I just put an old elbow on the exhaust pipe and the problem goes away.

Is the chimney clean and in good shape?
Thank you for that. Yeah, it's been a crappy year and a half.
The stove pipe (6 inch) was new when I put it in in 2008. I used it to vent the old Siegler oil stove. It has soot, but only enough to make things messy.
Lol, I bought this pellet stove because I was sick of fixing , fighting and googling "whats wrong with my oil stove" on that ancient Siegler.
Anyone interested in a "vintage" Siegler fuel oil heater?
 
Get a refrigerator coil brush. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Schaefe...8svRBbLbkASH-0dYMJYG8ucfPp_74sQRoCYCIQAvD_BwE.
And a cheap leaf blower to suck out the exhaust with the front door open and hook vac switch back up. You can light it and check it out in the garage. Get a piece of aluminum dryer vent for a temporary flue to get the exhaust outside and test it outside. If all your motors run and sound good, Youi just need to clean the 2 places no one knows about. with the brush and a leaf blower to suck exhaust out, You canhave it running like a champ in 30 min.
 
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Get a refrigerator coil brush. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Schaefe...8svRBbLbkASH-0dYMJYG8ucfPp_74sQRoCYCIQAvD_BwE.
And a cheap leaf blower to suck out the exhaust with the front door open and hook vac switch back up. You can light it and check it out in the garage. Get a piece of aluminum dryer vent for a temporary flue to get the exhaust outside and test it outside. If all your motors run and sound good, Youi just need to clean the 2 places no one knows about. with the brush and a leaf blower to suck exhaust out, You canhave it running like a champ in 30 min.
I don't have a garage and after what I went through to set here, I'm not moving it too far.
But I did disconnect it from stove pipe and used my blow dryer (I dont own a leaf blower) and my vaccuum cleaner. It blew a tiny bit of ash forward. Ive cleaned up inside the cleanout doors and I can see my wire swinging around up at the top near the heat exchangers, nothing more comes down.
This stove rode home face down on a dolly, you'd think any loose ash would have dislodged. So nothing is blocking the exhaust, the air intake is open. I repaced the door gasket, twice (first one was too big!) and the dollar test is better, I at least have resistance now.
Turn the stove on, exhaust fan runs for a minute, then shuts off and #2 light blinks again. I checked the vaccuum hose. Looks good. The exhaust fan looks new, like it was just replaces as well.
I sucked on the old vaccuum switch and it clicked. Thought maybe it was still good so I tried hooking it up again. Same thing happened.
I also just noticed the new vaccuum switch has 2 nipples!
So which is the one to hook up?
Also maybe I'm putting the wires wrong?
Who ever worked on this last put tape on the wires..I'm assuming to mark positive leads?
Which prong does the positive wire go to?
This stove is making me crazy. It will be July again by the time (if) I can make it run! HELP.

[Hearth.com] How to burn wood pellets in 2006 Auburn corn burner [Hearth.com] How to burn wood pellets in 2006 Auburn corn burner [Hearth.com] How to burn wood pellets in 2006 Auburn corn burner [Hearth.com] How to burn wood pellets in 2006 Auburn corn burner [Hearth.com] How to burn wood pellets in 2006 Auburn corn burner
 
The 2 wires that go to the vac switch, connect them together with a wire don’t let them touch the stove they are 120vac. Then try the starting the stove. The vac switch may click but still may be bad.
 
Yes Ssyko, thank you. That's how the stove was when I bought it. I couldn't get it to run right and when I opened that side I found the vacuum wires paperclipped together (jumped) and two vacuum switches inside, neither one was hooked up. I hooked up the newer one and have been having the #2 light blinking ever since.
Does the positive lead attach at the top?
Thank you.
 
Holy crap!! I think I got it! Ssyko thank you, the old one must have been bad. The exhaust fan is staying on this time.
Now to put everything together and try lighting it.
 
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Nice!! Now a new vac switch and you should have heat. The wires don’t matter which terminals just make sure the hose is on the light colored nipple and 1 wire hooked to “NO” (normally open)
 
*sigh*
Well I had heat for a minute.
So now I'm back to the original problem (before I noticed that the vacuum switch was jumped). The on/off light never stops blinking, the room fan never cuts on and the auger dumps pellets into the pot until it smothers the fire.
Well, at least this time the door doesn't leak and fill the house with smoke.

So is that a Proof of Fire switch issue?
 

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It sounds like there is an issue with the control board, the low limt switch will control the convection/room blower. But the blinking light should stop after 12-15 min. Can you post a pic of the board?
 
Sure, just the face?
 

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Ok im gonna do some research on that board. I may have one you can use till we can either fix yours or aquire a new one
 
Is the control board slide switch set to manual?

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well i went to my office and opened the picture up on the big screen and the slide switch was on thermostat, that's why i asked. the board i have is not compatable anyway, it has no trim adjustments.
 
well lets try jumping the proof of fire switch and see if the stove still smothers or if it can be adjusted after it makes it through start up. and the room fan comes on. just stay with it so you can keep track "no safeties with them jumpered"
 
ok this stove board operates just like a breckwell..when you turn it on hit the feed trim till it lights up numbers 1 and 4 that will be the lowest feed setting and may keep it from smothering.

what color wires are on the auger motor?


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