How many miles out of a 7.3 Excursion?

[MasterMech]

I love the 7.3 but have seen too many trannys replaced to consider that platform for serious towing. If someone had replaced/beefed up (there are some excellent aftermarket 'bulletproof' tranny rebuilds available) the trans previously however.....

The 6.0L in the GM may not have all the torque the 7.3L Excursion can lay down but even loaded to the limit and beyond, you'll have a tough time breaking it. With a rear spring upgrade (helpers, air springs, timbrens, etc.), and good tranny cooling, I'd expect the 8-Bolt 'burbs (I like it!) to be just as capable as the Excursion.

FWIW: We had a dealership truck, '03 Silverado 2500HD with the 6.0L/4L80E and towed JD 110 TLB's around, 5000 series tractors and many many smaller tractors plus the Ready To Mow trailer (about 5-6000lbs loaded) occasionally too. At about 53,000 mile the trans gave up. The tech that tore it down said it wasn't the constant heavy towing (110 TLB with loaded tires & acc was pushing 10,000lbs + the trailer) that killed it. It was the Gen Mgr driving the empty truck like a rented mule and not stopping before changing direction. The rear planetary gearset had grenaded. Last I heard the truck was doing fine at 150K+ and if I know that dealership, the truck's maintenance has most likely been seriously neglected.

 

[SolarAndWood]

(110 TLB with loaded tires & acc was pushing 10,000lbs + the trailer)

That is what is driving this discussion. I've been looking for a 2155MFWD or a 4WD 210 without a hoe to replace the Ford. They are both going to be in that range.

So, if we go down the keep the burb road...

Any downside to the rear spring upgrade? I assume it is something my shop can do?

Is the towing package rated for the full towing capacity or do I need to put a different hitch on it?

My wheels are 8 bolt, is that what you guys are talking about or is it something in the rear end?

 

[Highbeam]

I am a tractor towing guy. My tractor + trailer only weigh about 7000lbs though. I towed it thousands of miles with my 98 1/2 ton chevy with the 350 and 4l60e trans just barely over the ratings and sold the chevy at 175000 miles. I am a believer in ratings. Stay within the ratings of all of your equipment. Even better is if you are well within the ratings.

So a few years ago I sold the gas chevy and bought the diesel F350 crew cab. Underneath the sheetmetal, the F250/F350/excursion are all identical, so there is nothing unique about a one ton vs. an excursion. Now I tow the same trailers with ease and get better mpg doing it. The diesel can break 20 mpg cruising empty on the freeway and get down near 10 on heavy tows in the mountains. Always better than the chevy gas motor and operating well within its capabilities. I have NOT found the diesel to be much more expensive to maintain. Yes, 15 quarts of oil but 5000 mile change intervals and oil is really cheap. There is no injection pump to worry about, if you don't know fords then don't give advice.

The only risk is that if something were to break it could be VERY expensive. The oil pan rust for example is a big one. You must remove the engine to replace the oil pan. Pretty stupid design there IMO. It is not uncommon to get a 5-7000$ repair bill for a single breakdown that can happen with no warning despite excellent maintenance. A 7000$ repair bill on a 10,000 dollar truck is hard to swallow.

There is a lot to be said for towing with 550 ft-lbs of torque in a truck that weighs 7500#s and gets better mpg than many minivans. I daily drive my F350 and do not find the ride harsh. It is pretty noisy though, especially when it is cold outside.

With my lighter loads, I would stick with a 6 liter gas. If your loads exceed the ratings of the burb (as can be shown by your desire for additional suspension upgrades) then you would benefit from the proper sized tow rig.

 

[MasterMech]

(110 TLB with loaded tires & acc was pushing 10,000lbs + the trailer)

That is what is driving this discussion. I've been looking for a 2155MFWD or a 4WD 210 without a hoe to replace the Ford. They are both going to be in that range.

So, if we go down the keep the burb road...

Any downside to the rear spring upgrade? I assume it is something my shop can do?

None at all. Most are super easy, inexpensive, and maybe YOU can do 'em. The point is not to exceed or stretch GVW ratings [ ;-) ] but more to provide better handling/control and level ride height within the OEM GVWR.

Is the towing package rated for the full towing capacity or do I need to put a different hitch on it?

Excellent question! I have seen many examples where the OEM hitch is rated under the actual Max Trailer GVW Rating. Always double check the rating on the hitch, ball mount/drop, and ball. You're limitation is the lowest number on any one of those items or the vehicle tow rating, whichever is lowest.

My wheels are 8 bolt, is that what you guys are talking about or is it something in the rear end?
Yeah that's what we meant. 1/2 ton 'burbs are 6 bolt hubs I believe and 3/4 ton 'burbs are 8 bolt hubs.

 

[Highbeam]

For giggles, my 2000 model year one ton ford diesel has a GCWR of 20,000 lbs and weighs 7500 so I can only actually tow 12,500 lbs. My receiver is the OEM reciever and is only rated for 10,000 lbs using the proper W/D hitch setup which as MasterMech pointed out is a bit tricky. All of my gear down to the hitch ball is rated at 10,000 or higher to comply with my trailers weighing under 10,000. You should always setup your gear conservatively and run well within the ratings.

The "tow rating" is a bogus marketing term that doesn't actually pan out if you are willing to actually follow the rules. When I see an F150 with a tow rating well over 10,000 lbs, 6-lug wheels, and a tiny gas engine I know that there is some BS floating around. The BS is usually found in the GVWR since the curb weight is actually very close to the GVWR you can not put much tongue weight on the hitch meaning you can't really tow that load with the half ton. All of the actual important ratings will appear on the door sticker. The GCWR is a little harder to find but it is available.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Is the towing package rated for the full towing capacity or do I need to put a different hitch on it?

Excellent question! I have seen many examples where the OEM hitch is rated under the actual Max Trailer GVW Rating.

should have asked it before I bent it instead of assuming a 3/4 ton truck with the factory tow package could tow its advertised weight :shut:

 

[SolarAndWood]

I am a tractor towing guy. My tractor + trailer only weigh about 7000lbs though. I towed it thousands of miles with my 98 1/2 ton chevy with the 350 and 4l60e trans just barely over the ratings and sold the chevy at 175000 miles. I am a believer in ratings. Stay within the ratings of all of your equipment. Even better is if you are well within the ratings.

That is where I am with the Ford in the dump trailer now. No problems around town or hauling at highway speeds. I know I am overloading my 5000 lb single axle dump when I bring home a cord plus of fresh cut Oak in it. I know I am overloading the truck when I bring a load of stone or topsoil home in the tandem dump. Pretty sure there is no way I am getting a 4-5 ton tractor on my 2200 lb equipment trailer without overloading the truck. However, at least with the equipment you can get the weight right on the trailer while the dump trailers are pretty tongue heavy.

My goal here is to get everything in line for what I want to do and stop bending chit or being unsafe without spending a ton of dough. Removing the requirement to move a bigger tractor back and forth to the camp may end up being the solution. Then it would be just a matter of not filling the tandem dump beyond what should be pulled by the burb and getting rid of the little dump because I'm not sure I could ever resist the urge to the throw a cord plus of the good stuff in when it is available.