A damp paper towel with a little ash on it works wonders for me, too........... Just like it says in my owner's manual.
Battenkiller said:pyro68 said:They also work great for getting greasy finger prints off walls/doors without leaving wipe marks. My wife tells me I have an issue leaving such marks...
Available most any K-mart/wal-mart/grocery store....etc
lol, sounds just like my wife!! maybe that's just a factory defect with wives. . . :lol:
Holy cow, I got one just like it! What year was yours made? Mine was made on Aug 21, 1960. I was thinking that maybe it was just a bad year for wives. Glad to see others are having similar problems with theirs.
Seriously, after spending the entire day rotating her tires, checking her brakes, changing her oil, topping off the fluids in her car, etc., you'd think she'd be only too happy to greet me at the basement door with an open can of Goop and some paper towels. But no-o-oooooo........ She expects me to wash the dang thing and clean my hands that way.
FWIW if I actually had a stove that had glass in it, I would use a wet paper towel with ash on it. Supposed to work like a charm. %-P
jeremy29 said:Hi Babs!
I've been running my Buck 91 for a few days now and get the same buildup in the bottom corners of the glass. I think those front corners just don't get much airflow...my side windows look the same as yours, too. I used a wet paper towel with ash on it to buff it off once the stove was cold.
I don't think I've gotten any buildup around the opening though...but I'll have to double check.
jeremy29 said:The manual is really confusing too, calling that left lever the shotgun in one sentence and the primary in another. I still am not 100% on what does what...I just wiggle them both in and out 'till I get the airflow I'm looking for.
Tonight I am going to try loading it up like a book shelf (with really deep "books") and see how that goes.
Boozie said:jeremy29 said:The manual is really confusing too, calling that left lever the shotgun in one sentence and the primary in another. I still am not 100% on what does what...I just wiggle them both in and out 'till I get the airflow I'm looking for.
Tonight I am going to try loading it up like a book shelf (with really deep "books") and see how that goes.
The lever on the RIGHT HAND side (facing the stove) is the air wash. I leave it open all the time. The lever on the LEFT HAND side is the primary air control or "shot gun" ..... as it pushes air out that little box up front in the middle. (That's why it's difficult to get a fire going E/W as that air shoots down the middle of the firebox.)
I stopped by Firemasters (where I got my insert) and was telling one of the guys about the stains along lower left, bottom, and lower right side. He said he wasn't sure. I'm going to send him a picture and I asked him if he could have one of the service guys come out and look at it after that.
WoodpileOCD said:My Buck 91 is about 6 years old and I've had it only a couple weeks now but am starting to get it figured out I think. I have the same issues with glass gunking up in the lower left corner in particular and with creosote forming on the lip of the stove in that same area. It happens pretty quickly (within a day of cleaning) and I think it is my gasket not sealing properly. A dollar bill pulls out pretty easily but with some resistance so I'm not sure how much resistance there should be. I watched a video referenced on a link here by a stove dealer and when he tried to pull out a small sheet of paper, it tore so I'm assuming it should be a lot tighter than mine. I've just bought a new gasket and some cement and will replace it as soon as I can. I suspect that cool air is leaking in at that point and keeping the glass cooler in that area. An IR thermometer would confirm, I suppose.
My understanding of the air controls on the 91 are thus. The left control is indeed the 'shotgun' control and if you open and close it while watching an ember in it's path, you will see it glow brighter as you open the control confirming that. I use that on startup or reload (and when burning down coals) to get it going good but have discovered that it gets clogged with ashes easily. I took a little mirror on the end of a rod (mechanics / dental) and could see the holes blocked and it doesn't take much to clear them up with a small brush. The control on the right is not only your air wash but is the 'primary' control as this is the way air is fed to the fire. It happens that the path it takes is over the window, hence the name 'air wash' control. Not sure of the exact path yet but the air is chambered around the firebox somehow so that it is preheated before it hits the glass. Keep in mind though that it is not just for 'glass wash' but your main air supply so this is how you control your fire. Leaving it wide open all the time is probably using more fuel than necessary.
I'll report back when I get the gasket replaced but yours is a new stove and shouldn't have gasket issues.
Boozie said:Woodpile, what is that thermostat you have as your Avatar? Was that on your stove when you got it?
WoodpileOCD said:That is a thermometer that inserts right next to the bypass handle and the probe sits just above the cat combustor. It's a standard Condar catalytic thermometer one that you can pick up lots of places for about $25-30
You should have a little 1/4" hole to the right of your BP handle to insert a cat therm and I would highly recommend one.
Boozie said:WoodpileOCD said:That is a thermometer that inserts right next to the bypass handle and the probe sits just above the cat combustor. It's a standard Condar catalytic thermometer one that you can pick up lots of places for about $25-30
You should have a little 1/4" hole to the right of your BP handle to insert a cat therm and I would highly recommend one.
My stove came with the Condar catalytic thermometer. The thermometer I'm referring to is the one on your Avatar ..... it is a brown one and goes to 7000 degrees. What is that one?
Now ..... the white one? That is measuring the air coming from the air vents?? Is that right?
My manual says to close the bypass at 600 degrees.
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