I hear the cartalk guys commenting - 'Has to be a couple engineers asking this.' This IS their summer enjoyment.
Agreed. That's why it is referred as moisture content. Technical details were provided here ^.
DOn't forget though: not everything can burnThe paper was interesting, but I don't think bomb calorimetry is a valid model for woodstove heating. The calorimeter is by definition a completely sealed system; no smoke or unburned combustion products can escape. By contrast, in a woodstove with inadequate secondary burn, a large portion of the potential heating value is being lost up the chimney as unburned combustion products.
Dirty ugly glass, and hard to start fires, a clean chimney, and 50 years of wood heating knowledge that dry wood keeps my family warm and sfe from chimney fires.I trust me, I WANT it to help by more than 2%. Otherwise the 10 cords in my side yard are quite a waste of space [emoji23]
I don't believe in voodoo either, I'm an engineer and a BTU is a BTU, regardless of how the fire "behaves". So what am I missing in my analysis?
1/4" of creosote is quite a bit. The recommendation is to clean at 1/8" of buildup anywhere in the system.If there's even 1/4" of creo, I'm running the brush down it.
Here's one I found. I skipped towards the end, see page 51.
http://nepis.epa.gov/Exe/ZyPDF.cgi/20008YOS.PDF?Dockey=20008YOS.PDF
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