How can I use single wall pipe from first story to ceiling in 2nd story???

[Gemaffair Mike]

What's the point of doing this?? Do you like the look of black stovepipe or do you want heat upstairs?

Keep it simple - cut a vent in the ceiling/floor and but a register cover over it and let the heat from the stove upstairs. Go whole hog and put a little 4" fan inside to pull the air up. You don't use the stovepipe.

You may also want to be a little more informed on your state requirements - "Many people across Alaska do not think that we have building codes. People building outside of city limits, or in cities that do not have a building department do not realize that there are building codes that will apply to all homes built after July 1, 1992." You can find the correct information here: (broken link removed to http://www.wisdomandassociates.com/inspections_ratings/code_inspections/what.html)

The reason I am trying to work the pipe solution is that - my wife does not want a vent from our masterbedroom to the downstairs family room. She fears that sound will travel easily in either direction. But I am not totally against this, it is an option that is on the table.

I am VERY informed about Alaska. What I said is exactly the facts of Alaska. There is no building department anywhere in my borough and certainly no permits, no codes, no inspections, none ever. It's an "honor system" that you should follow IBC. However, no department to inspect. no inpectors and no requirements to have any of that in place before, during or after. You can build whatever you want in any shape or form you can imagine drunk or sober. NO ONE will stop you or even question you. UNTIL you involve a bank. The banks do require certain things, but the State requires nothing, the borough requires nothing and no one is watching, looking or cares.

This website you pointed me to is simple conjecture based on theory. I am speaking from 21 years of actual experience.

 

[Gemaffair Mike]

"I wish for the durarock and tile to act as a reflective heat sink. "
Most who have tried on a small scale have failed. You need a massive amount of reservoir to store and emit heat in any quantity. Think boiler guys using 1000gallon heat storage tanks, or passive solar using basements full of rock. A small area of tile and Durock will hold little heat.

Hmmmm, well, it seems that I have radiant heating stove, so if I heat up cement and rock, then the cement and rock will emit that heat back. or atleast more so than the other elements in the house. I am not expecting it to be a large contributor to the heat source in my house, but if i am going to build a non combustible wall might as well do it out of elements that HOLD heat, whatever that amount is, is my thinking. I don't kid myself into thinking it will be like a rocket mass heater.

 

[maple1]

The reason I am trying to work the pipe solution is that - my wife does not want a vent from our masterbedroom to the downstairs family room. She fears that sound will travel easily in either direction. But I am not totally against this, it is an option that is on the table.

I am VERY informed about Alaska. What I said is exactly the facts of Alaska. There is no building department anywhere in my borough and certainly no permits, no codes, no inspections, none ever. It's an "honor system" that you should follow IBC. However, no department to inspect. no inpectors and no requirements to have any of that in place before, during or after. You can build whatever you want in any shape or form you can imagine drunk or sober. NO ONE will stop you or even question you. UNTIL you involve a bank. The banks do require certain things, but the State requires nothing, the borough requires nothing and no one is watching, looking or cares.

This website you pointed me to is simple conjecture based on theory. I am speaking from 21 years of actual experience.

I suggest you call your insurance person, make it very clear to them what you want to do, and ask them if they would have an issue with it.

 

[Gemaffair Mike]

I suggest you call your insurance person, make it very clear to them what you want to do, and ask them if they would have an issue with it.

Let's talk about insurance in Alaska.

My agent is 248 miles away. To my knowledge has never seen my house. If he has, it is out of curiousity. I simply give them the address and construction type and answer a few questions.

They do not ask for pictures, plans or any other verification of what I am telling them.
No inspector ever comes out.
Premiums are cheap.

I have no ever filed a claim. BUT I do have friends who have, on crappy built POS cabins (think glorified shed) and had no problems collecting.

I do think that if a claim was large enough, that they might challenge you on something you did - on your own that was against code - and thus is why I am ASKING all these questions. Trying to find a way that meets these codes that we are supposed to "honor" but no one ever checks.

 

[bholler]

The reason I am trying to work the pipe solution is that - my wife does not want a vent from our masterbedroom to the downstairs family room. She fears that sound will travel easily in either direction. But I am not totally against this, it is an option that is on the table.

I am VERY informed about Alaska. What I said is exactly the facts of Alaska. There is no building department anywhere in my borough and certainly no permits, no codes, no inspections, none ever. It's an "honor system" that you should follow IBC. However, no department to inspect. no inpectors and no requirements to have any of that in place before, during or after. You can build whatever you want in any shape or form you can imagine drunk or sober. NO ONE will stop you or even question you. UNTIL you involve a bank. The banks do require certain things, but the State requires nothing, the borough requires nothing and no one is watching, looking or cares.

This website you pointed me to is simple conjecture based on theory. I am speaking from 21 years of actual experience.

There may be no inspections but if your house does catch fire I can gaurantee your insurance company will care if it was done correctly.

 

[HomeinPA]

The reason I am trying to work the pipe solution is that - my wife does not want a vent from our masterbedroom to the downstairs family room. She fears that sound will travel easily in either direction. But I am not totally against this, it is an option that is on the table.

I am VERY informed about Alaska. What I said is exactly the facts of Alaska. There is no building department anywhere in my borough and certainly no permits, no codes, no inspections, none ever. It's an "honor system" that you should follow IBC. However, no department to inspect. no inpectors and no requirements to have any of that in place before, during or after. You can build whatever you want in any shape or form you can imagine drunk or sober. NO ONE will stop you or even question you. UNTIL you involve a bank. The banks do require certain things, but the State requires nothing, the borough requires nothing and no one is watching, looking or cares.

This website you pointed me to is simple conjecture based on theory. I am speaking from 21 years of actual experience.

The bank and/or the insurance company if you file a claim and they decide to do a thorough investigation as to cause. Then again, if they wrote the policy knowing about the install then I've always said that the claim is their baby.


Now the deal with the wife.....the ABSOLUTE ONLY WAY I could conceive the installation you are talking about, and keep in mind as a professional in this business I think it's ill-advised at minimum, is that you have about a 36x36 inch square opening in the floor and a half wall in the bedroom where you could look down the to lower level and a cathedral ceiling mount for the class-a in the bedroom. That amounts to a much larger hole than putting a vent in the floor. I'm guessing the wifey doesn't want to hear the TV downstairs or the kids to hear the..... "activity" in the bedroom when they're downstairs but if that's the case, I'd suggest throwing a pillow over the vent during the aforementioned time. Not that I know anything about that. Or adjust your timing You can NOT frame around the stovepipe and enclose it inside the walls.

 

[Gemaffair Mike]

The bank and/or the insurance company if you file a claim and they decide to do a thorough investigation as to cause. Then again, if they wrote the policy knowing about the install then I've always said that the claim is their baby.


Now the deal with the wife.....the ABSOLUTE ONLY WAY I could conceive the installation you are talking about, and keep in mind as a professional in this business I think it's ill-advised at minimum, is that you have about a 36x36 inch square opening in the floor and a half wall in the bedroom where you could look down the to lower level and a cathedral ceiling mount for the class-a in the bedroom. That amounts to a much larger hole than putting a vent in the floor. I'm guessing the wifey doesn't want to hear the TV downstairs or the kids to hear the..... "activity" in the bedroom when they're downstairs but if that's the case, I'd suggest throwing a pillow over the vent during the aforementioned time. Not that I know anything about that. Or adjust your timing You can NOT frame around the stovepipe and enclose it inside the walls.

Got it and thank you, I am leaning towards the vent I guess. And changing my timing ! No more TV downstairs after 10pm! The TV is right next to the stove so a vent will translate that noise right up to our room. A vent with a fan may hide some of the vocal noise with some white noise.

 

[Gemaffair Mike]

Before you get too far into this have you tried a small fan blowing air out of the cold room? I have seen 3-4 degree temp changes by a single small fan blowing the cold air out of the room. The warmer air then comes in and replaces it.

Matter fact I put a small duct and fan blowing air from my main floor down to my basement where my stove is. It runs 24/7 and uses very little power and makes a huge difference on the main floor. And It does not really transmit any sound upstairs.

This is interesting thought. SO instead of pulling the hot air up into the master, blow the colder air down into the lower floor where the stove is, thus pushing the hotter air up the stairwell ? This could be done in the hallway or even in the closet and thus, no worries on sounds etc transmitting either direction.

 

[HomeinPA]

This is interesting thought. SO instead of pulling the hot air up into the master, blow the colder air down into the lower floor where the stove is, thus pushing the hotter air up the stairwell ? This could be done in the hallway or even in the closet and thus, no worries on sounds etc transmitting either direction.

Most effectively done with a ceiling fan at the top of the stairway but you still need a route for the air to get back upstairs. Hence, the vent in the floor. Another option....which I will be installing as soon as I get it, a ThermGuard unit that you program to turn on your furnace blower fan or circulate your hot water from a boiler. I will set mine to run for 15 minutes after 30 minutes being off. It evens out the temp throughout the house. Just something else to think about.

 

[bholler]

This is interesting thought. SO instead of pulling the hot air up into the master, blow the colder air down into the lower floor where the stove is, thus pushing the hotter air up the stairwell ? This could be done in the hallway or even in the closet and thus, no worries on sounds etc transmitting either direction.

Yes that is a good thing to try first. Start off with the fan in the doorway on the floor blowing out

 

[Zack R]

Our wood stove is downstairs and I've had success pointing a fan blowing cold air toward it (along the floor), so that the warm air goes up the stairs (along the ceiling).

 

[Woody Stover]

This is interesting thought. SO instead of pulling the hot air up into the master, blow the colder air down into the lower floor where the stove is, thus pushing the hotter air up the stairwell ? This could be done in the hallway or even in the closet and thus, no worries on sounds etc transmitting either direction.

Helping cold air to move down sounds better than trying to pull hot air up. The cool air above is naturally trying to sink, and the hot air below wants to rise...You want to augment that, not try to go the opposite direction through a vent with no fan..
Try what bholler said first, before cutting vents. Then another thing to compare is to put the small fan on the floor at the top of the stairs to try to boost the natural convection loop at a different point. The small fan swivels up or down, so you can move the cool air down, right above the stairs, with the fan on LOW so as not to swirl the air and disrupt the loop. Warm air will be displace up, as Zack R said, along the staircase ceiling.
You can even tape tissue paper in the tops of doorways to help you see how the air is moving when you try different things.
This is the Honeywell HT-900, a 10" fan. I don't know if it's any good, but this is the type you want..

ceiling fan at the top of the stairway

Every time I've experimented with ceiling fans, they seem to disrupt the natural convection loop. Now, to get hot air off a vaulted ceiling, they seemed to work OK when the fan was blowing up. Other than that, I just try to enhance what is already happening naturally; Cool, dense air falls and spreads out, displacing warm, light air.

 

[FTG-05]

I think your over estimating the amount of heat sent up the flue with a modern tube stove. Run single wall from the stove to 1st floor ceiling and call it good.

And here's what Chimney Sweep's Library has to say about that: (broken link removed)

 

[Rickb]

cold air is more dense so easier to move with a fan.

 

[moresnow]

Helping cold air to move down sounds better than trying to pull hot air up. The cool air above is naturally trying to sink, and the hot air below wants to rise...You want to augment that, not try to go the opposite direction through a vent with no fan..
Try what bholler said first, before cutting vents. Then another thing to compare is to put the small fan on the floor at the top of the stairs to try to boost the natural convection loop at a different point. The small fan swivels up or down, so you can move the cool air down, right above the stairs, with the fan on LOW so as not to swirl the air and disrupt the loop. Warm air will be displace up, as Zack R said, along the staircase ceiling.
You can even tape tissue paper in the tops of doorways to help you see how the air is moving when you try different things.
This is the Honeywell HT-900, a 10" fan. I don't know if it's any good, but this is the type you want..
View attachment 238989
Every time I've experimented with ceiling fans, they seem to disrupt the natural convection loop. Now, to get hot air off a vaulted ceiling, they seemed to work OK when the fan was blowing up. Other than that, I just try to enhance what is already happening naturally; Cool, dense air falls and spreads out, displacing warm, light air.

I have 2 of those exact fans. One fan at the farthest point in my house on the main floor pushing cool air towards the stove. Hands down it works for me to keep my kitchen warm.
My second fan was upstairs pointed straight up while sitting on top of a existing old school floor grate in my master bedroom (above stove room) to push cold air out of the bedroom and down the stairwell and help the naturally rising hot air enter the bedroom. It worked but eventually we decided it was un needed in our small home. For what that is worth!