high flue temps???

[pyroboy]

woodstovepro.com has it also northlineexpress.com

I don't know if hearth.com patronizes any certain web stores or not, don't wanna step on any toes

 

[begreen]

No problem. This is the part picture and part number.

 

[Chuck the Canuck]

No problem. This is the part picture and part number.

View attachment 167545

I just ordered the damper kit from ebay and should have it home and installed within a couple of weeks! Thanks again to all.....

 

[Bill C]

Pyroboy, I got a PE Summit last winter and love it! It's a bit different creature from what we were use to. However, I had same problem. It takes a little getting use too.
If your using a hardwood then you should see stove top temps 600 -650. The stove comes to life as you turn air down rather than more air. Mine runs at 600 pretty consistently.
What I do is load my logs with the air set to high. After wood is charred I turn air half way down. After a three to five minutes I then turn air down to low and or all the way off and the secondaries start. Temp rises, levels off and she runs several hours . The run time depends on type of wood and how much I put in.
Now I place a temp gage at base of pipe flang on stove top and another two feet up pipe or on my 45 where it makes turn into flue. Stove top is in 600 -650 range and pipe is running 400-450. At times it will run 475 if I have a lot of wood loaded
Hope that helps ...

 

[Bill C]

Oh , forgot to mention that when I have the air on low the fire basically moves above the wood as secondaries kick in. Any flame at the wood is slow and lazy. Upper fire box is active.

 

[pyroboy]

Pyroboy, I got a PE Summit last winter and love it! It's a bit different creature from what we were use to. However, I had same problem. It takes a little getting use too.
If your using a hardwood then you should see stove top temps 600 -650. The stove comes to life as you turn air down rather than more air. Mine runs at 600 pretty consistently.
What I do is load my logs with the air set to high. After wood is charred I turn air half way down. After a three to five minutes I then turn air down to low and or all the way off and the secondaries start. Temp rises, levels off and she runs several hours . The run time depends on type of wood and how much I put in.
Now I place a temp gage at base of pipe flang on stove top and another two feet up pipe or on my 45 where it makes turn into flue. Stove top is in 600 -650 range and pipe is running 400-450. At times it will run 475 if I have a lot of wood loaded
Hope that helps ...

is this a magnetic thermometer on single wall pipe, or probe therm on double wall reading?

 

[Bill C]

Both are magnetic type...

 

[Bill C]

I'm not using double wall pipe inside. Single wall going into flue. Also if you do have too much draft and your using two 45's going into flue, you can slow the draft by going to a 90 degree elbow.

 

[pyroboy]

Both are magnetic type...

gotcha wish it was an internal temp so I could see how it compares when mines loaded full it runs 700-800 with a probe 2ft up the stack. my stove top right by the collar is 600-650 as well normally

 

[begreen]

With a probe thermometer on double-wall our temps on startup run up to whatever I let it to before shutting down the air. Normally it gets up to about 6-700F internal flue gas temp. Once I have the air shut down it will settle in at stove top temps or below by 100F depending on the stage of the burn.

 

[Bill C]

You must have an excessive draft issue I'm thinking ? If your using double wall pipe coming from stove to flue that is also in creasing draft.

 

[pyroboy]

That's a reasonable question to ask. I don't think so, but would consider trying removing it during a a clear dry spell of a few days to test that theory.

So update...its 19 degrees here currently and wind is dead calm....stove is running like a champ. I have a much lazier fire under my secondaries. I think the vacu-stack just might be the problem when I have wind present. Def going to switch it this week and try original cap again.

 

[begreen]

Sounds like a good plan. The PE is an easier breathing stove.

19. Winter is coming.

 

[pyroboy]

I did also tweak the air lever stop. I do like the added control I have now

 

[Bill C]

Yes sir, if you put wind across a pipe it creates a vaccum effect which increases draft !

 

[Bill C]

A damper may resolve the issue, or a 90 elbow would help some. Both would be worth trying.

 

[pyroboy]

Sounds like a good plan. The PE is an easier breathing stove.

19. Winter is coming.

I know But with a barn loaded full of Ash, Oak, Maple, Elm, Apple, and Locust....I say Bring it....lol

 

[BrotherBart]

Stay warm out there in the heartland. We are at a balmy 35F at the moment and won't get near your temps until sunup.

 

[pyroboy]

A damper may resolve the issue, or a 90 elbow would help some. Both would be worth trying.

I am going to try a non-draft inducing cap first....then the damper may be thought about

 

[pyroboy]

Stay warm out there in the heartland. We are at a balmy 35F at the moment and won't get near your temps until sunup.

I suspect 15 degrees by daybreak...first taste of under 20 for us

 

[Bill C]

I feel certain once you get this figured out you will like the stove.

 

[begreen]

Time to add that bad boy of a stove to your signature.

 

[BrotherBart]

I suspect 15 degrees by daybreak...first taste of under 20 for us

We won't see 15 for a while. We are just going through a period of 10-20 degrees below normal. Now if that happens in January...

 

[Bill C]

Let me know how you tweaked the air control... Been thinking of doing something to mine to have a little more air control.

 

[pyroboy]

Let me know how you tweaked the air control... Been thinking of doing something to mine to have a little more air control.

It's the stop tab of metal that gets bent to let the air control close further. This picture is an extreme example of the tab bent all the way over. I wouldn't do that. I have ours bent less so that it's still open about 3/16" when it hits the tab.