Help with new stove choices

[Mech e]

If efficiency and emissions are the same or very close, I wonder what the difference actually is?

They are both built in the same factory. I think the main difference is cosmetics.

 

[kennyp2339]

Please explain “convective heater.” Does the PE Summit have a unique feature that is different, than other stoves with blowers? I’m going from a Vapor Fire 200 to a large stove, in an insulated basement.

Sorry for the delay, stoves tend to heat primarily one of two ways, convective & radiant.
Convective heaters heat the air and its the warm air that heat the space, so a convective heater usually has a metal jacket around it or a larger blower channel for the air to natural flow through.
Radiant stoves heat objects which then heat the space.
Newer stoves usually incorporate the 2 types of heating but weigh heavier on one type think 70/30 or 60/40.
A stove with a large viewing glass will radiate heat through it, but it may also have a cast iron jacket or double steel jacket to allow air to enter the bottom rear, travel up and roll over the stove top between the metal and out the front vents (convective heat) this flow is natural, as air enter the rear jacket it starts to heat up and expand creating a current that then vents out, this can be amplified with a blower to make it stronger.

 

[Woody Stover]

Who's gets to tell Bholler its code to insulate the liner?

Not if he has at least two inches.

He ended up with a pe. Summit

The new LE model? Does he have pretty strong draft from the basement? It'll be interesting to see how controllable it is, or if you need to counter a strong draft.
Have you read their spiel about the tech on their website..?

I learned years ago with wood stoves. You get what you pay for.

Makers usually don't under-charge but it appears that some may over-charge.

 

[bholler]

Not if he has at least two inches.
The new LE model? Does he have pretty strong draft from the basement. It'll be interesting to see how controllable it is, or if you need to counter a strong draft.
Have you read their spiel about the tech on their website..?
Makers usually don't under-charge but it appears that some may over-charge.

Every liner I have ever installed has been insulated. And everyone he has done for the past probably 30 years has been. No issue there.

Yes it is the new 2020 version. On a 19 or 20' chimney. And it is working fine

 

[Woody Stover]

it is the new 2020 version. On a 19 or 20' chimney. And it is working fine

I know you don't have time to go into it right now, but I'm looking forward to your detailed report in the "Stove Reviews" section!

 

[bholler]

I know you don't have time to go into it right now, but I'm looking forward to your detailed report in the "Stove Reviews" section!

I havnt burnt it at all yet

 

[Woody Stover]

I havnt burnt it at all yet

I really haven't burned my SIL's much either, just been leaving it to her. She's been burning short loads, since it hasn't been cold except for a few nights. I'll be playing with it a little more in the coming weeks, I'm pretty sure.
I think she's scared to put a big load in, even though I have two dampers in it now. The blower came today so I'll put that on, then she's got another fall-back position in case the burn gets a little hotter than she wants. But from what I've seen, it's fairly easy to keep the stove under 700, a bit harder to stay under 650 unless your eye and timing is good.

 

[Jackleg_Miner]

Since being mild, there maybe times when you load it up and adjust it for a low fire. On the average, how long can a low fire go with the HT 3000? A friend offered me a 3 year old Vogelzang Ponderosa for $500. From the reviews that say mostly that buying that stove, was a “big mistake”, I’ll go with the HT 3000 from Northern Tool. I wish Northern Tool sold the Osburn 3500. Since both are made in the same factory, perhaps they are built the same, just a different size?

I honestly have not timed how long it will go. However, with an established fire if I load it up and crank the damper all the way down it will last through the night and I still have hot coals in the morning, about 8 hours later, and the house is more than warm enough for me. I enjoy about 70 degrees while my wife likes to keep it up towards 80. Typically it is around 74ish when I wake up and get it going again.

I'm relatively new to wood stoves though and the wood I'm using isn't really seasoned. I can hear it hiss and see moisture coming out of the ends when I put it on. With more experience and better wood I'm guessing you can get some really great results from the Drolet HT3000.

A huge factor for me was the clearances I could get with the HT3000. It is impressive how tight of a space you can safely get it in. I overbuilt my hearth and gave myself plenty more than the minimum clearances, but anyone looking to keep it tight should take a hard look at this stove.

 

[Woody Stover]

I still have hot coals in the morning, about 8 hours later, and the house is more than warm enough for me. I enjoy about 70 degrees while my wife likes to keep it up towards 80.

Hmmm, that's a bit of gap between preferred temps for the two of you; I guess you end up in your undies quite often. My wife likes it just a bit warmer than I do, say 72 to my 70.

I'm relatively new to wood stoves though and the wood I'm using isn't really seasoned. I can hear it hiss and see moisture coming out of the ends when I put it on. With more experience and better wood I'm guessing you can get some really great results

Definitely. You'll find that with dry wood, you can get the heat you need with the air set lower, and your loads will go longer. In addition, the amount of time from lighting the fire to having the stove up to temp and the air cut to cruise setting will also be shorter, for even more wood savings.