Help with a wood stove setup

[edwards1687]

Sorry about the long wait. I've been real busy the past days haven't had a chance to look in the attic until today.

First of all, I was not able to even go over and see the chimney piping from the access to the attic because of the maze of HVAC ducts through out the small attic space. What I was able to do is slide the collar down the pipe that meets up with the ceiling and from what I can see it is a the same 11" Class A chimney the whole way up through the attic to the vent pipe. So at this point I'm pretty stumped on how this is going to work in terms of downsizing to accommodate a 6" chimney? Any and all recommendations would be great!

 

[Renovation]

Thanks George,

Ok, so after a lot of looking around I realize that at this point the best thing to do is go with the American Metal 8SWA Chimney Single Wall Adaptor 8 Inch -

(broken link removed to http://www.hardwareandtools.com/American-Metal-8SWA-Chimney-Single-Wall-Adaptor-8-Inch-6970339.html)

From that point down I would have to chimney pipe 8†to 6†reducer, correct? To get down to the desired 6†size. If that is the case I have not found a 8†to 6†reducer from the same manufacturer (American Metal) to make this happen. In that case how wound another brand work to make this connection?

The stove just got in yesterday!

Thanks for your time

Congrats on the stove!

Yes, I looked around, and that adapter is the only one I could find for your pipe. The adapter has to be from the same manufacturer as the Class A pipe so, unless someone else has a better suggestion, you'll have to make it work.

You said:

The pipe in the photo is a 11†OD/8†ID Class A and I would need some type adapter to make it work. I’m wondering if it would be more effective and easier to make the connection to the wood stove if I was to remove that 36†section of the 11†OD/8†ID pipe and put the up towards the ceiling where they connected (that you can see in the picture) and just jog it out from higher up? I will need to jog the pipe out with where the flue pipe comes straight down right now; from the edge of the 8†ID to the wall is only about 7†and would be at 8†once it was reduced to a 6†flue.

I agree. You should remove the 36" section, and put your adapter there, then you can transition to 6" and jog the pipe out to give your stove the needed clearance for the Englander 17--at least 17" perpendicular from the side walls to the center of the pipe.

Because your present pipe is so close to the walls, to keep from burning your place down you have to go with double wall stove pipe or shielding. I say go for the double wall, since it will keep your chimney cleaner and your stove drawing stronger. And the Simpson DVL is well thought of, so I'll go with that.

After a bunch of clicking around, here's the adapter:

(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/item/5SP-8860/8-Simpson-DVL-6-8-Increaser-8860)

From my calculations, the centerline of your pipe is now 10" perpendicular to the two walls--could you verify that? It needs to be atl least 17" for your stove clearance. According to my calculations, you need at least a 10" jog to accomplish that.

I looked at the last page of the DVL brochure here:

(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/Images/Pdf/DuraBlack_DVL_Catalog.pdf)

And it says that 2 6" 45 degree DVL elbows with a 12" straight section between them will give you over 12" offset, so I suggest you go with that.

Take a look here:

(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/multiple_items.asp?cc=6DVL)

And pick out those parts, and see if you can figure out what else you need. I'll check back, and hope that others will jump in if I've made a mistake or it can be done better.

It may take a little modification to get the DVL reducer connected to your American Metal 8" adapter, but it might just fit right in. If any of this gets overwhelming, a local pro could do it for you in a snap.

HTH, and have a great one,

George

 

[edwards1687]

Thanks George,

Ok, so after a lot of looking around I realize that at this point the best thing to do is go with the American Metal 8SWA Chimney Single Wall Adaptor 8 Inch -

(broken link removed to http://www.hardwareandtools.com/American-Metal-8SWA-Chimney-Single-Wall-Adaptor-8-Inch-6970339.html)

From that point down I would have to chimney pipe 8†to 6†reducer, correct? To get down to the desired 6†size. If that is the case I have not found a 8†to 6†reducer from the same manufacturer (American Metal) to make this happen. In that case how wound another brand work to make this connection?

The stove just got in yesterday!

Thanks for your time

Congrats on the stove!

Yes, I looked around, and that adapter is the only one I could find for your pipe. The adapter has to be from the same manufacturer as the Class A pipe so, unless someone else has a better suggestion, we'll have to make it work.

You said:

The pipe in the photo is a 11†OD/8†ID Class A and I would need some type adapter to make it work. I’m wondering if it would be more effective and easier to make the connection to the wood stove if I was to remove that 36†section of the 11†OD/8†ID pipe and put the up towards the ceiling where they connected (that you can see in the picture) and just jog it out from higher up? I will need to jog the pipe out with where the flue pipe comes straight down right now; from the edge of the 8†ID to the wall is only about 7†and would be at 8†once it was reduced to a 6†flue.

I agree. You should remove the 36" section, and put your adapter there, then we can transition to 6" and jog the pipe out to give your stove the needed clearance for the Englander 17--at least 17" perpendicular from the side walls to the center of the pipe.

Because your present pipe is so close to the walls, to keep from burning your place down you have to go with double wall stove pipe or shielding. I say go for the double wall, since it will keep your chimney cleaner and your stove drawing stronger. And the Simpson DVL is well thought of, so let's go with that.

After a bunch of clicking around, here's the adapter:

(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/item/5SP-8860/8-Simpson-DVL-6-8-Increaser-8860)

From my calculations, the centerline of your pipe is now 10" perpendicular to the two walls--could you verify that? It needs to be atl least 17" for your stove clearance. According to my calculations, you need at least a 10" jog to accomplish that.

I looked at the last page of the DVL brochure here:

(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/Images/Pdf/DuraBlack_DVL_Catalog.pdf)

And it says that 2 6" 45 degree DVL elbows with a 12" straight section between them will give you over 12" offset, so I suggest you go with that.

Take a look here:

(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/multiple_items.asp?cc=6DVL)

And pick out those parts, and see if you can figure out what else you need. I'll check back, and hope that others will jump in if I've made a mistake or it can be done better.

It may take a little modification to get the DVL reducer connected to your American Metal 8" adapter, but it might just fit right in. If any of this gets overwhelming, a local pro could do it for you in a snap.

HTH, and have a great one,

George

Great information and links you provided me with. Thank You!

I measured the the centerline of the current chimney and it is 15" from the unprotected wall, 8" from the mantle and 12" from the stone protected wall. According to the manual from chimney connector to corner I need to be 14" from the wall. I will most likely be out a bit farther than that either way.

I'm going to take several measurements and figure out everything I need before I place an order.

Also I may have to go with a single walled setup due to expenses this month, we will see. If that is the case it will be basically the same setup with a heat shield, correct?

I think I got this figured out now, at least in my head...we will see see how it works out.

Jared

 

[Renovation]

Great information and links you provided me with. Thank You!

I measured the the centerline of the current chimney and it is 15" from the unprotected wall, 8" from the mantle and 12" from the stone protected wall. According to the manual from chimney connector to corner I need to be 14" from the wall. I will most likely be out a bit farther than that either way.

I'm going to take several measurements and figure out everything I need before I place an order.

Also I may have to go with a single walled setup due to expenses this month, we will see. If that is the case it will be basically the same setup with a heat shield, correct?

I think I got this figured out now, at least in my head...we will see see how it works out.

Jared

You're very welcome Jared. I hope my free advice is worth at least as much as you paid.

I strongly recommend double wall stove pipe for safety and performance, but all this is your call.

Remember,the surface of double-wall stove pipe can come no closer than 6" to any combustible surface, mantle included.

If you go with shielding, read up on the info here, and make sure you satisfy all the requirements, which may be different. Make sure you get the pipe jogged away from the walls high enough to maintain proper clearances, and that you satisfy all shield materials and configuration requirements and clearances--surfaces, stove & pipe. I've told you how to do it with double-wall--shielding may be different.

You're welcome, and good luck! Please reward us by posting photos when you're done!

 

[edwards1687]

I decided on the double wall setup, due to the fact that the price difference wasn't a whole lot and you can't put a price of safety.

One more question I have for you, as far as purchasing a stove pipe adapter is it beneficial to get one with a built in damper or not? As seen on this page - (broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/multiple_items.asp?cc=6DVL)

 

[edwards1687]

Also I was reading that a increaser is different than a reducer, in that a increaser is used to go from a 6" to a 8" and a reducer a 8" to a 6". So my question is will that adapter work for this setup? Thanks again!

 

[edwards1687]

Also I was reading that a increaser is different than a reducer, in that a increaser is used to go from a 6" to a 8" and a reducer a 8" to a 6". So my question is will that adapter work for this setup? Thanks again!

Never mind, the catalog answered that question for me.

 

[Renovation]

I decided on the double wall setup, due to the fact that the price difference wasn't a whole lot and you can't put a price of safety.

One more question I have for you, as far as purchasing a stove pipe adapter is it beneficial to get one with a built in damper or not? As seen on this page - (broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/multiple_items.asp?cc=6DVL)

I'm glad you made that choice--I think it's better all around. I know I will rest easier knowing you did.

You may not need a stove pipe adapter--it's only needed if the collar on your stove doesn't fit the stove pipe. Measure the collar on your stove carefully, and see if the stovepipe will fit right over it and in it. I suggest going with a telescoping section of double wall in either case, to make installation and cleaning easier. Remember to follow the instructions on which end's up, because otherwise creosote (goo) will ooze out of the joints.

As for the damper, I'd definitely say no. It's only needed in overdraft situations, and your chimney is on the short side, so the risk is too little draft, not too much.

Good luck!

 

[edwards1687]

I decided on the double wall setup, due to the fact that the price difference wasn't a whole lot and you can't put a price of safety.

One more question I have for you, as far as purchasing a stove pipe adapter is it beneficial to get one with a built in damper or not? As seen on this page - (broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/multiple_items.asp?cc=6DVL)

I'm glad you made that choice--I think it's better all around. I know I will rest easier knowing you did.

You may not need a stove pipe adapter--it's only needed if the collar on your stove doesn't fit the stove pipe. Measure the collar on your stove carefully, and see if the stovepipe will fit right over it and in it. I suggest going with a telescoping section of double wall in either case, to make installation and cleaning easier. Remember to follow the instructions on which end's up, because otherwise creosote (goo) will ooze out of the joints.

As for the damper, I'd definitely say no. It's only needed in overdraft situations, and your chimney is on the short side, so the risk is too little draft, not too much.

Good luck!

Ok, sounds good. I will do a little measuring to find out. As for the telescoping section, I think I would probably have to go for the 12" adjustable one that adjust from 2"-12" and then get another 12" straight section.

 

[edwards1687]

Hey George,

I got an issue with this installation that I need help figuring out.

So I just finally received all my parts to get this hooked up, or so I thought. For starters, I was on hold with England stove works for about 45 minutes till I got to talk to a technician about connecting the stove to the pipe and I was told I didn't need a stove pipe adapter to connect it to the DVL Duravent pipe; that was incorrect, so I ordered one (should be here by the end of the month).

Second, the single wall American Metal adapter came in the mail today. According to specs online it was suppose to be 11" OD and 8" ID. It is about 8.5" OD and 8" ID. I was afraid this item would not work by looking at the pictures.

So my question is - The 8" to 6" reducer fits snug around the 8" ID Class A pipe but I would guess that would not be a good/safe way to hook it up, because it would leave a 1"- 1.5" open gap where they are adapted?

IF that doesn't work I would guess I would have to use something like this and hope it works - http://www.dynamitebuys.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=5086

If you have any other ideas please help!?

Thanks

 

[Renovation]

Hi. Sorry to hear you're having problems, but that's par for the course. Stick with it. I'm glad to help if I can.

Could you post a photo of the parts that you have, and one showing the fit? That would help figure this out. I can't visualize it from the description.

 

[edwards1687]

I would like to stick with this setup, but it just doesn't seem right. Anyway here are a few pictures I just took for ya. Let me know what you think...

Without the single wall adapter -

With the single wall adapter -

They really is no difference between using the adapter or not, besides the adapter fits a little more snug.

The adapter I link above is a true 11" OD and 8" ID, which would be the best possible solution in my mind, but then again I don't know a whole lot about this stuff yet (getting there).

Thanks George

 

[Renovation]

Thanks for the photos, they make a big difference.

To clarify, in both cases, does the inner wall of the upper, Class A, pipe fit inside the inner wall of the pipe below? That's important, so that stuff like creosote running downhill stays inside the pipe. It looks like it does in the second photo, but I can't tell in the first.

How far is one pipe inserted inside the other?

How snug are the fits?

Since I'm giving advice, I'd like to try to be as safe as possible, and recommend you go with the adapter you found, which appears to be the right one:

http://www.dynamitebuys.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=5086

Better to be safer than sorrier, don't you think?

You're getting there!

HTH, and good luck.

 

[begreen]

Am I having deja vu or is this part exactly what you wanted to do in the first place?

 

[edwards1687]

Yes it does fit into the inner wall of the of the reducer but the amount of pipe that is inserted into the other is only about an inch. The adapter is more of a snug fit then the reducer but overall it would be difficult to connect the two and it just doesn't look good.

So, I'm about to order the other adapter right now and hopefully will be my last piece to the puzzle to getting this all hooked up. The way the weather was the past few days (highs on the mid 70's) I was starting to think that I wouldn't be needing a wood stove for awhile; but we have lows around 0 by mid week that's Oklahoma weather for ya.

Anyway I will let you know how this works out.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

[edwards1687]

After a lot part searching and trying different setups it is finally hooked up and working great! I've had it hooked up for about a week now but haven't had a chance to fire it up due to a week of 70 degree days. So far so good, it has been burning for about an hour and I am really liking this stove but I will enjoy it more after it is broken in. I'm guessing it takes a couple hours to break in the wood stove so it doesn't smell and put off some smoke because of this. Anyway here is a picture that I just snapped of the wood stove setup:

Thank you George for all your help

Jared

 

[bioman]

Jared, you might want to keep an eye on that mantle , looks pretty close to the 45, also make sure you have the 45 secured to the chimney.

 

[afptl]

can you make a heat deflector for the mantle by the back? looks kinda close. how hot did it get?

 

[edwards1687]

It looks closer in the picture than it really is, it's probably about 10 inches away but it's above the mantle. It is barely warm to the touch so I'm not to worried about it; it's a double-walled chimney too. Everything is secured with the supplied screws and it is very tight.

 

[afptl]

How is the stove working out?

 

[edwards1687]

Very good, I'm surprised how efficient is on burning wood. I won't get much use out of it this winter, I think the bulk of the cold is over.