help sizing the external air intake
- Thread starter Prometeo
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Yes, I think it's a semantics and translation issue.
It's a piece of "equipment" (...) applied to heat a (part of a) home.
lol
My focus is still on the appliance (?) of the CO detector; regardless of the path forward that the OP takes, the system seems close to exhausting CO into the home. Open windows etc. are not a good failsafe solution for that.
I quickly browsed back up but did not see a "yup, already have one" in response to the advice in this respect.
It's a piece of "equipment" (...) applied to heat a (part of a) home.
lol
My focus is still on the appliance (?) of the CO detector; regardless of the path forward that the OP takes, the system seems close to exhausting CO into the home. Open windows etc. are not a good failsafe solution for that.
I quickly browsed back up but did not see a "yup, already have one" in response to the advice in this respect.
@stoveliker
You are right, it's better to clarify, in these cases (life-threatening) maximum seriousness is needed don't underestimate. I have a co detector, actually 2, but one is only for values after 150 ppm, while the other is more sensitive, it detected me 15-20 ppm even 50 in the morning when the air was too closed ( in the past ).
But now, and during combustion, I noticed a slight discomfort, but the co detector detects nothing. I got to thinking, which since I use a lot of air probably there is no co but there are other combustion products that cause discomfort, with the house under negative pressure, due to the new doors. Regarding the open window test, it was a test, which made me understand, Why do I have to open very large holes after I seal the house to make the stove work properly? Better to transfer the negative pressure, via oak, in the garage, which has 2 air vents. And that's what I'm doing, but a small air passage in the stove room is always good, even in the case of activation of the kitchen extractor and I repeat, at each reload, in general it would be useful to open the window, and close it immediately afterwards, to ensure that the open door of the stove does not cause episodes of negative pressure, which in practice cause turbulence, and a little smoke comes out at times. But that probably doesn't matter, without oak, the air would be exchanged quickly.
It is good to trust digital tools, but I think the sensations are even more valid.
You are right, it's better to clarify, in these cases (life-threatening) maximum seriousness is needed don't underestimate. I have a co detector, actually 2, but one is only for values after 150 ppm, while the other is more sensitive, it detected me 15-20 ppm even 50 in the morning when the air was too closed ( in the past ).
But now, and during combustion, I noticed a slight discomfort, but the co detector detects nothing. I got to thinking, which since I use a lot of air probably there is no co but there are other combustion products that cause discomfort, with the house under negative pressure, due to the new doors. Regarding the open window test, it was a test, which made me understand, Why do I have to open very large holes after I seal the house to make the stove work properly? Better to transfer the negative pressure, via oak, in the garage, which has 2 air vents. And that's what I'm doing, but a small air passage in the stove room is always good, even in the case of activation of the kitchen extractor and I repeat, at each reload, in general it would be useful to open the window, and close it immediately afterwards, to ensure that the open door of the stove does not cause episodes of negative pressure, which in practice cause turbulence, and a little smoke comes out at times. But that probably doesn't matter, without oak, the air would be exchanged quickly.
It is good to trust digital tools, but I think the sensations are even more valid.
updates: with the above system I had 6-7 ppm co I think the vertical oak, and reduced (80 instead of 100) it didn't work, so I removed it. Now this air intake should be sufficient but I suppose there are no problems because the draft has increased
Attachments
![[Hearth.com] help sizing the external air intake](/talk/data/attachments/332/332650-056ab7f4cafbfc6928798f872bac51ff.jpg?hash=raeXlWHkWZ)
![[Hearth.com] help sizing the external air intake](/talk/data/attachments/332/332651-2e0e3cfc1a57af1d766d491b548d2813.jpg?hash=AEwq2vs2HI)
Similar threads
