Treemoss- Your concern should also be the wood. Even if you have a great draft, the oak you have only being seasoned for 18 months will cause creosote and not burn well. Especially, if it is not in an ideal area for proper seasoning. How long has it been split and stacked? What kind of oak is it? Red oak has more moisture content than most other oak species. Oak in general is a wet wood. I have oak rounds that have been bucked and split in half that are still in the high 40's to 50 imoisture content. Is the oak your main supply? The Mulberry and maple should be ok.
Help Please
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Treemoss- Your concern should also be the wood. Even if you have a great draft, the oak you have only being seasoned for 18 months will cause creosote and not burn well. Especially, if it is not in an ideal area for proper seasoning. How long has it been split and stacked? What kind of oak is it? Red oak has more moisture content than most other oak species. Oak in general is a wet wood. I have oak rounds that have been bucked and split in half that are still in the high 40's to 50 imoisture content. Is the oak your main supply? The Mulberry and maple should be ok.
*Beams in, courtesy of BWS*
My firewood guy I spoke w/ yesterday .. he's out of seasoned, bringing me a mix of green cherry, maple, etc to get me through w/ some pine (2 months split) to make it through the back end of the season, so no help there.
I was perusing Craig's List today for alternatives & found a few leads
Envi Bricks ... spend the money, cheaper than oil, and they burn well. You can mix them with wet firewood
(broken link removed to http://longisland.craigslist.org/grd/4003490886.html)
I don't know where you are on the Island, so a few links
(broken link removed to http://longisland.craigslist.org/fod/3994645821.html)
(broken link removed to http://longisland.craigslist.org/mat/4021460277.html)
Start scrounging, and welcome to the forums !!
My firewood guy I spoke w/ yesterday .. he's out of seasoned, bringing me a mix of green cherry, maple, etc to get me through w/ some pine (2 months split) to make it through the back end of the season, so no help there.
I was perusing Craig's List today for alternatives & found a few leads
Envi Bricks ... spend the money, cheaper than oil, and they burn well. You can mix them with wet firewood
(broken link removed to http://longisland.craigslist.org/grd/4003490886.html)
I don't know where you are on the Island, so a few links
(broken link removed to http://longisland.craigslist.org/fod/3994645821.html)
(broken link removed to http://longisland.craigslist.org/mat/4021460277.html)
Start scrounging, and welcome to the forums !!
Yes it has been split for that long nice and gray with lots of cracks. I just hope I have draft from my horizontal pipe and offsets. I hope it doesn't screw me.
lumbering on
Feeling the Heat
Sprinter
Minister of Fire
That may still be your best option. Maybe you can find a creative way to make it work with the room.
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Sprinter
Minister of Fire
You still need to get a moisture meter to see where you stand, or it's just guess work. If it's <25% you're fine. If up to 30%, or so, you can still supplement your loads with a manufactured product like EnveBricks, BioBricks, etc.
But without proper draft, it's a moot point anyway.
You can always try the setup you have planned, and if that don't work, go to plan B.... back to inside and up.
Dennis is right, the Oak ain't worth burning till at minimal 2 years, and even then it ain't really ready. Takes 3 here, even with hot summers & lots of sun & air.
It will burn at 2, but burns much better and less charcoal at 3years+.
Dennis is right, the Oak ain't worth burning till at minimal 2 years, and even then it ain't really ready. Takes 3 here, even with hot summers & lots of sun & air.
It will burn at 2, but burns much better and less charcoal at 3years+.
Thanks guys, yes it is harned brothers in commack. I definitely will get a Moisture meter and I will see if I can box it out. but that would be my last resort. I will wait on the oak another year and a half. I am just freaking out that this stove will not run properly and will have horrible draft because of my set up. I do not want tons of smoke in my house with my two year old breathing in all winter.
I could ask the chimney sweep installer about the 45° angles instead of the 90. The installer said he will add an additional Four foot pipe on top for better draft. The inside will have double insulated black pipe so hopefully that would help. I'm just thinking this might be a bad idea that I'm going to have problems with my whole life.
This is what my install on my stove says.
For installation of your chimney connector, the following recommendations may be useful.
• The chimney connector must be short and straight. For optimum performance it is recommended that
all horizontal runs have a minimum 1/4” rise per foot, with the upper end of the section toward the
chimney.
• To insure a good draft, the total horizontal length of the connector should never exceed 8’ to 10’. In
the case of vertical installation, the total length of the connector can be longer and connected without
problem to the chimney at the ceiling level.
• There should never be more than two 90° elbows in the entire connector and chimney system. Never
start with a 90° elbow. Always go up vertically for at least 2 feet from the flue collar before using a 90°
elbow.
So far as what my stove says about the installation my setup should work is this true or not.
This is what my install on my stove says.
For installation of your chimney connector, the following recommendations may be useful.
• The chimney connector must be short and straight. For optimum performance it is recommended that
all horizontal runs have a minimum 1/4” rise per foot, with the upper end of the section toward the
chimney.
• To insure a good draft, the total horizontal length of the connector should never exceed 8’ to 10’. In
the case of vertical installation, the total length of the connector can be longer and connected without
problem to the chimney at the ceiling level.
• There should never be more than two 90° elbows in the entire connector and chimney system. Never
start with a 90° elbow. Always go up vertically for at least 2 feet from the flue collar before using a 90°
elbow.
So far as what my stove says about the installation my setup should work is this true or not.
That is a nice stove and a good heater. However, we have had another poster complain of poor heating with it a couple years ago. Most suspected the wood but it ended up as being insufficient draft. There was no secondary burning because the draft was too weak to pull air through the preheat manifold.
Oh soot, So does that mean I will probably have the same problem because of my set up.
![[Hearth.com] Help Please](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/110/110333-3ce588f8ce123a1c7a8a2659c26897bb.jpg?hash=y160qYFK2_ "[Hearth.com] Help Please")
![[Hearth.com] Help Please](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/110/110334-6b6fdcbb3c858cc5f1cca2c4959bcc20.jpg?hash=ckIlsm-bwS "[Hearth.com] Help Please")
Do you guys think he can do something like this for the gutter section.
![[Hearth.com] Help Please](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/110/110335-e964bcc0b72dd8ac5b3cd6285d0f576a.jpg?hash=5DCoF9Vov6 "[Hearth.com] Help Please")
Or no because of the tee
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You can do that, but you will need sturdy extended brackets to reach that distance from the wall. Would be better than using the offset around the gutter.
With that, go with 2 -45 elbows inside rather than the 90s.
You may also need some kind of support under the T. Extended that far out is asking a lot for that T and the horizontal run to it to support.
With that, go with 2 -45 elbows inside rather than the 90s.
You may also need some kind of support under the T. Extended that far out is asking a lot for that T and the horizontal run to it to support.
Machria
Minister of Fire
Treemoss, welcome. You'll get some great info here, pay attention. 
Where are you on LI? What town?
If you are anywhere near Patchogue (south shore), have Eric from Clayton Richards Firewplaces have a look at it. He's a very knowledgable guy....
Where are you on LI? What town?
If you are anywhere near Patchogue (south shore), have Eric from Clayton Richards Firewplaces have a look at it. He's a very knowledgable guy....
Is this slab wood?
On your fear of a smoky house, rest easy because I doubt that will be a problem. You definitely will have to be very careful when opening the firebox door. Normally recommended to open the draft full then wait. In your case, probably wait a couple minutes, then open the door but do it very gently. Do not just fling the door open. Do it easy and you should not have a smoke problem.
Do you think i will have good draft if I run the stove with the air closed way down, But have the stove hot enough with the secondary air tubes burning up the smoke. I really would like to know if anyone out there has a 3 to 4 foot horizontal run and offsets and has any problems with draft or a 5 gallon bucket of Creosote a month. Let's just say that I have five year old garage kept seasoned hard wood or the perfect fuel say. Will I still have draft problems and creosote buildup because of my offsets and horizontal run.
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Nobody can say at this point how you will have to run the stove. Two people can have the same stove but have to run them differently. For example, on our stove the draft settings are from zero to 4. Our normal setting once the fire gets established is a setting of .75. Now that is winter setting. Spring and fall might be closer to 1 or sometimes maybe a bit above 1. Yet other folks with this same stove have their normal setting at 1 1/4. There are many factors involved and each individual has to learn his own stove to a point and use other information as guidelines rather than gospel.
Treemoss, welcome. You'll get some great info here, pay attention.
Where are you on LI? What town?
If you are anywhere near Patchogue (south shore), have Eric from Clayton Richards Firewplaces have a look at it. He's a very knowledgable guy....
Hello machria, I live in smithtown. Would you happen to know anybody that has over a year old at least well seasoned wood. For sale.
Where are you on LI? What town?
If you are anywhere near Patchogue (south shore), have Eric from Clayton Richards Firewplaces have a look at it. He's a very knowledgable guy....
Hello machria, I live in smithtown. Would you happen to know anybody that has over a year old at least well seasoned wood. For sale.
Treemoss, welcome. You'll get some great info here, pay attention.
Where are you on LI? What town?
If you are anywhere near Patchogue (south shore), have Eric from Clayton Richards Firewplaces have a look at it. He's a very knowledgable guy....
Hello machria, I live in smithtown. Would you happen to know anybody that has over a year old at least well seasoned wood. For sale.
Just saw this on Craigs List
(broken link removed to http://longisland.craigslist.org/for/3989090178.html)
Hello dtdeh, thank you for that I know we're they are. I think they are a little expensive. Over 200 a full cord.
But if they have well seasoned wood I mite have to check them out.
At this point, take it. It's still cheaper than oil
Call me Dix, most every one else does ... or worse
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