HELP! Need advice on my liner install that just happened

[Manitoulin Maples]

So it looks like I have the option to have the 5 inch swapped with a 5.5 inch but the installer says they are not sure it will work as my chimney ID is 6 1/4 and there are little sections of mortar sticking out of the tiles in places. OD of 5.5 liner is about 5.75 and this would be uninsulated. The 5 slid through no problem with room to spare. Also - are the clean out tees for a 5.5 actually this size or do 5.5 kits come with a 6 sized tee and an adapter? If the little mortar pieces that stick out are the problem can I use a long piece of rebar and just chip these off carefully?

The other option would be to have the clay tiles removed and use an insulated 6 inch liner. Perhaps a silly question but can you break up the tiles and just let them fall to the bottom? My chimney as seen above is huge and the lower portion is in the crawlspace and is all concrete block for support. I think the chimney goes much lower than my hearth and wondering if I did bust the tiles could I just let them fall? Obviously this isn't ideal but could be inexpensive and an easy fix?

 

[Ashful]

Interesting question...

 

[branchburner]

Did you run by the installer the idea of trying to extend the chimney a few feet to see if that improved the draft? Did you contact PE to get their input on running this stove at 5, 5.5, and 6 inches under various chimney heights? Those might be worth a try.

 

[stoveguy13]

i would break the tiles and install insulated 6"

 

[rdust]

i would break the tiles and install insulated 6"

This may not be the easiest solution but it's the best. I'm running a 5.5 liner due to tile size but I have a 30' chimney. If mine was on the shorter side I would've busted the tiles out, busting out 30' of tiles sounded too much like work.

 

[Manitoulin Maples]

Did you run by the installer the idea of trying to extend the chimney a few feet to see if that improved the draft? Did you contact PE to get their input on running this stove at 5, 5.5, and 6 inches under various chimney heights? Those might be worth a try.

The installer did not really offer anything other than offering to try a 5.5 or to remove the 5 and I can find someone else to fix it or install my own liner. Actually he never said "too bad", "I'm sorry", or even bother to come and look at the job his guys did...not impressed with their customer service at all. I called PE and they basically said you can use a 5 or 5.5 in certain cases but always strive for using 6 and if thats not possible then try the next size down (i.e. the 5.5). Also said that if the installer suggested 5 then draft reading with manometer and accurate chimney EVL should be determined first - and of course this was not done.

 

[Manitoulin Maples]

i would break the tiles and install insulated 6"

You mean try and do this myself or hire someone?

 

[stoveguy13]

You mean try and do this myself or hire someone?

i would say you would need to hire someone it is not really a homeowner job. but you can certainly go out and buy a tile breaker and try it

 

[HotCoals]

Some on here talk about power vents . I know nothing about them but maybe something you could look into.
Looks real nice!

 

[firefighterjake]

Just had to say . . . very cool looking hearth. A bit different than the usual sort of thing seen here.

 

[Manitoulin Maples]

Update: company removed the 5 inch and I purchased and installed my own 5.5 inch liner. The 5.5 went in no problem and I got it hooked up easily. And I cemented the snout into the masonry breach...it's rock solid and way better than before. I just need a WETT inspection now!

One thing I do notice is that the draft is better on start up and fires get going easier, but unfortunately I still have some smoke spillage. Any suggestions for this or am I stuck with it? I also have a whirly bird on the roof for ventilation and there is a vent for this in the hallway adjacent to stove room, maybe 15 feet from stove. I can slide the vent closed in the house but I'm wondering if this is competing for draft and sucking smoke out when I open the door. Having said that I've noticed smoke spillage when the whirly bird is spinning and not spinning (its wind powered, no on and off).

 

[bag of hammers]

The whirlybird vents into the room? I though these were designed for attic ventilation (which would make them moot as far as competing with the wood stove is concerned)...?

Glad you got the liner installed - have to agree with others, your hearth is very cool.

 

[Brick (ware)House]

MM - Nice hearth, quite unique. How did you make the hole in the masonry for the pass through?

 

[branchburner]

I still have some smoke spillage. Any suggestions for this or am I stuck with it?

Don't forget the idea of temporarily extending the flue a few feet higher to see if that makes any difference.

 

[Ashful]

I did not read back thru the whole thread, but the surefire test for the effect of this whirlybird vent (as well as your possible need for an OAK), is to open a window in the room with the stove. Does smoke spillage stop?

 

[Manitoulin Maples]

The whirlybird vents into the room? I though these were designed for attic ventilation (which would make them moot as far as competing with the wood stove is concerned)...?

Glad you got the liner installed - have to agree with others, your hearth is very cool.

Yeah it is designed for attic ventilation...I can't understand it either. The previous owners used it to ventilate and draw moisture from the crawlspace - they ran connected a flew dryer type vent hose down into the crawlspace but it also branches off in the attic a secondary hose runs into the back hall. Perhaps this was an effort circulate the air..? Regardless I'm thinking of disconnecting the hoses to the crawlspace and hallway and just have it used as a regular whirlybird.

 

[Manitoulin Maples]

I did not read back thru the whole thread, but the surefire test for the effect of this whirlybird vent (as well as your possible need for an OAK), is to open a window in the room with the stove. Does smoke spillage stop?

I'll try this again.

 

[Ashful]

Yeah it is designed for attic ventilation...I can't understand it either. The previous owners used it to ventilate and draw moisture from the crawlspace - they ran connected a flew dryer type vent hose down into the crawlspace but it also branches off in the attic a secondary hose runs into the back hall. Perhaps this was an effort circulate the air..? Regardless I'm thinking of disconnecting the hoses to the crawlspace and hallway and just have it used as a regular whirlybird.

Assuming your primary crawlspace problem is summertime humidity, ventilation of the space is usually a poorly-informed DIY move, and only worsens the problem. The proven approach is to seal and dehumidify, rather than providing an infinite and endless supply of fresh humid summer air to a cool space, where it is guaranteed to condense.

 

[dmmoss51]

I noticed it mostly when stove was up to temp and going - went to adjust some pieces and had smoke spillage. that nonsense where you try and do things fast with the poker cuz you can see smoke being pulled into the room.

IF you are opening the door and poking things arround while you have an active fire and flames you will almost always get some smoke spillage. Keep the door closed let the fire burn down then reload.

 

[bag of hammers]

Yeah it is designed for attic ventilation...I can't understand it either. The previous owners used it to ventilate and draw moisture from the crawlspace - they ran connected a flew dryer type vent hose down into the crawlspace but it also branches off in the attic a secondary hose runs into the back hall. Perhaps this was an effort circulate the air..? Regardless I'm thinking of disconnecting the hoses to the crawlspace and hallway and just have it used as a regular whirlybird.

That raises some interesting questions. Pulling inside (warm) air up thru a (non-insulated?) hose to the whirlybird in winter sounds like an invitation for condensation in the hose, and maybe some eventual drips in the hallway. Were the previous owners there full time (i.e. through the winter)? If not then maybe this is a problem just waiting for you ...? Might be worth doing as you said, removing the hallway from the run. .

 

[bag of hammers]

Assuming your primary crawlspace problem is summertime humidity, ventilation of the space is usually a poorly-informed DIY move, and only worsens the problem. The proven approach is to seal and dehumidify, rather than providing an infinite and endless supply of fresh humid summer air to a cool space, where it is guaranteed to condense.

Agree 100%. This is exactly how my crawl space is set up. Sealed all vents, decent quality dehumidifier, and it's been bone dry 365 days a year. Let the outside air in, and it sweats like crazy. This was against the "conventional" wisdom at the time, but I know what works after trying both.