Help me engineer my install

[Anradhn39]

What pipe is that? Going out the wall costs quite a bit more the tee costs allot and you are going to have a little more chimney doing it that way. Straight up is easier and cheaper and generally pretty easy to clean from the ground to.

I don't recall the name, I buy it at R.E.Michel Co, but they only sell to contractors.

 

[begreen]

I think your saying, you want to run single wall through the first floor ceiling into the attic. Then what? You can use single wall out of the stove, as long as you maintain 18" (I think) clearance. But when you get to the ceiling, are you cutting out a 36" x 36" hole? You can, but I would put in a ceiling box that supports and transitions to double wall chimney. Double wall the rest of the way thru the attic and out the roof flange. All those are standard parts. So they fit, make sure all the parts from one manufacture.

No you can't. Stove (connector) pipe can not penetrate the room ceiling. One must transition to chimney pipe at that point.

 

[Anradhn39]

This is why I recommended what I recommended, most of these details become moot and I don't see where the poster is saying he wants to have the cheapest install. But I'm strongly against centrally locating the stove in the center of the room also.
Try swinging a 1x6x10 board around in a room with a stovepipe right in the middle.

 

[BamaRama]

As far as the pipe for the attic space, what pipe should I use there?

Use a double wall insulated chimney pipe. As someone else suggested, galvanized will work inside the loft and stainless above the roof. When you decide what kind and how much chimney pipe to buy, get the items for the penetrations by the same manufacturer.

In regards to the connector pipe, you have to consider the clearances. Double wall can be max 6" from combustibles and single wall 18". So if you can spare the space against a wall, single wall is the ticket. You will need to take everything in consideration and come up with the solution that suits you and safety.

I went through a big learning curve when I installed my stove. Go to the different manufacturers websites, download the material, and read. That's the only way I could figure out what I didn't know. These guys were of great help to me.

 

[bholler]

This is why I recommended what I recommended, most of these details become moot and I don't see where the poster is saying he wants to have the cheapest install. But I'm strongly against centrally locating the stove in the center of the room also.
Try swinging a 1x6x10 board around in a room with a stovepipe right in the middle.

That is why we recommended on a wall but going straight up with it the only issue is you have to go through the roof but it is a shingle roof so that is very easy. Other wise straight up is cheaper easier and works better. There really is no down side to going straight up in this install. I am not saying there is not a chimney pipe that has only 1" clearance but all that i have used or come across require 2" and i would not use galvanized outside. I just don't see that the price savings is worth the reduction in lifespan personally.

 

[jeepnerd]

Sounds like I've confused some of about my location, I do plan on setting the stove close to a wall, but in the center of a wall. I'd like the chimney to penetrate to roof about 16" to the rear of the ridge, so technically it'll be 16" off center of the only interior wall in the building. Ceiling support box was one of the terms I was looking for. It sounds like double wall for the attic is the way to go. If I understand correctly, another ceiling box is needed for the roof? Does the double wall go through the roof or is that a third type of pipe? What would you call the flashing kit?

 

[bholler]

Ceiling support box was one of the terms I was looking for. It sounds like double wall for the attic is the way to go. If I understand correctly, another ceiling box is needed for the roof? Does the double wall go through the roof or is that a third type of pipe? What would you call the flashing kit?

No you run stove pipe either single or double wall to the ceiling support box at the first floor then run class a chimney pipe from there out the roof. You can use galvanized inside but i would switch to stainless outerwall once you get to the roof. But once you hit that ceiling it needs to switch to chimney pipe.

 

[BamaRama]

If I understand correctly, another ceiling box is needed for the roof? Does the double wall go through the roof or is that a third type of pipe? What would you call the flashing kit?

No you only need one ceiling box. The double wall insulated chimney pipe runs from the ceiling box to the chimney cap. Judging form the picture of the attic (with things stored up there?) you'll need to build a chase around the chimney pipe (occupied attic space). Best i can tell, that would require a rafter radiation shield. AFAIK, there is no kit that includes flashing. You have to measure the pitch of the roof and get the correct flashing. They are made for certain ranges of pitch.

 

[BamaRama]

Best thing to do is draw out a pic of what you want to do, then pencil in the parts and sources as you confirm what you need. Then come back here and post the results for a sanity (I almost lost mine) check.

 

[jeepnerd]

OK, now we're getting somewhere. I'm starting to get a grasp on what I need. I'll draw out a picture. A friend of mine installed his own and a local stove shop helped him out. With all the information I got here I'll be able to go in there with a better understanding of what I'm looking for, thanks.

 

[BamaRama]

What i took away from the install that i did is there are a lot ways to do it wrong and one way to do it right. Follow manufacturers specs and you'll be golden. And after a lifetime of misusing ladders, it finally caught up with me. Be careful up there.

 

[Pug]

If you contact woodland direct.com, and give them a drawing of your layout, they will help you design your system. I did, not knowing what parts I needed to come from my new stove, in my basement, through the basement wall, up the side of the house, through the eave. I used Ken Collins there to give me a bid on all the components. I checked prices with locals and found them competitive and knowedgeable. I purchased my stove there also. They have treated me quite well.

 

[naturelover]

What about a small metal outbuilding? Put it behind the workshop, install a wood furnace and duct it into the shop.

No worries of clearances, and no worries of dust explosions. Also makes for a nice place to store wood.

I did this for heating my garage, as technically any source of ignition must be 18" above the floor if flammables are stored or transferred.

I installed a wood furnace in an existing outbuilding behind my garage, ran the stovepipe out the back of the building, and cut two more holes in the side for the ducts that I ran into the back of the garage. Did have to cut another opening overtop the doors and install an intake vent for the fans also.

Works well, and even when it was in the single digits and winds howling during this cold snap, kept the 20x30x14' tall leaky uninsulated brick walled garage around 50 or so. When have normal winter temps on the 20's and 30's, it will keep it comfortably in the 60's.

Plus saves so much space in the garage too, and no fire danger from a wood stove inside either. And can even clean the chimney without ever having to leave the ground.