HELP....kind of concerned about what just happened with my Fireview

[fire_man]

I'm going out on limb and saying really dry wood tends to cause a backpuff worse than wet wood. Reason is dry wood outgasses at a higher rate. Yes wet wood smolders, but it's driving out moisture at a lower temperature than if it were dry and spitting out the igniting gasses much slower. I remember BKVP suggested I mitigate my Progress backpuff issue by mixing my super dry 3 year old wood with some less dry wood.

 

[blades]

Thanks guys....went through the stove this morning and no problems. Getting up on the roof to check the flue will have to wait...it's wet underfoot here plus any damage to liner I would expect lower down and there is nothing visible. I've burned for years and this was my 1st experience with this.

Scared me but the dogs were terrified. My pointer is a bit of a whoose at times and she scrambled to get behind the couch then spent about an hour peering around the corner...she's generally as close to the stove as she can get.. The Gordon sort of yawned and rolled over to ignore it..

One of my springers goes into full ballistic mode when the stove does some funny pops and bangs, the other just moves closer. Had a Gordon( female for 12 years) she was a great companion before this pair of springers. These two are sisters- completely opposite of each other in mannerisms unless they get on a scent then off to the races, damn the torpedos.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

It's a stainless liner to the top. Part of the problem with using a chain is to NOT get it swinging too hard and damage the liner

In your area, Hearthside on rt 2 would probably have the brush and poles you need. Stainless steel liner would require a poly brush, as a metal brush is not recommended. Ask the folks there, but you may have to trim off a some of the width of the brush. You might also be careful to not be quick to stick the brush too far down liner at first. Pulling the brush back up would be when you discover that it's too tight of a fit. Preston trading post in sotheast ct is a great place to get good info. The staff there are good about answering questions

 

[Ctwoodtick]

It's a stainless liner to the top. Part of the problem with using a chain is to NOT get it swinging too hard and damage the liner

In your area, Hearthside on rt 2 would probably have the brush and poles you need. Stainless steel liner would require a poly brush, as a metal brush is not recommended. Ask the folks there, but you may have to trim off a some of the width of the brush. You might also be careful to not be quick to stick the brush too far down liner at first. Pulling the brush back up would be when you discover that it's too tight of a fit. Preston trading post in sotheast ct is a great place to get good info. The staff there are good about answering questions

 

[MJFlores]

My Fireview is 13 years old, and I've NEVER experienced anything like that. I've seen smoke suddenly ignite in the stove, but never any sound and certainly not enough pressure to lift the top lid...that lid probably weights 50 pounds! I would be very concerned about that happening again, and would assume that if you have a ceramic CAT, it's in pieces laying under that lid now. I would be checking inside and out for CAT damage, cracked soapstone, warped damper plate, and pipe joints. Never allow a fire to smoulder like that, I want to see visible flame in my stove at all times, even with the cat glowing and the air cut back until it's all coals. Not trying to scare you but that was quite an explosion that occurred in your stove for the lid to lift up.

 

[TheRambler]

I've had a few backpuffs in ny PH on mild shoulder season days. Enough to cause the stove to rattle a touch, alarming when it happens but not overly so. Cracking the air open a touch usually resolves it for me.

 

[Woody Stover]

I want to see visible flame in my stove at all times, even with the cat glowing and the air cut back until it's all coals.

I ran the Fv the majority of the time with no flame in the box, and so does my BIL. No strong back-puffs, for us anyway, just soft "flash-overs" like you are describing.

 

[fire_man]

If the draft is good, it should not be a problem to run with no flame. And I never once remember a single post claiming damage caused by a severe backpuff.

 

[MJFlores]

If the CAT was engaged, and the force enough to lift the top lid, all that force would have gone through the CAT. A ceramic CAT would certainly be smashed to pieces, and I cant imagine one of the newer stainless CATs fairing any better. It wouldn't break apart like ceramic, but the cat is made of very thin metal, not at all capable of taking a sudden force strong enough to lift a cast iron and stone lid. I've never seen anything even close to that in my stove. Sure, on a great burn when the flame goes out and all you see if glow off the cat and hot embers, and suddenly hot gases and smoke ignite you'll see a flash and rolling flame will wash over the interior and then settle down, but the lid lifting is another matter.

 

[Ashful]

I'm going out on limb and saying really dry wood tends to cause a backpuff worse than wet wood.

My experience is the opposite. Based on the feedback I was getting from the forum at the time this was plaguing me, it seemed others had similar experience: backpuffing caused by burning wet wood. In my case, it was always an hour or two into the burn, a sort of delayed rapid out-gassing, when the wood perhaps finally dried out enough to tip the scales.

In any case, when I finally got the opportunity to burn some properly dried wood, the problem had resolved itself.

 

[Woody Stover]

it seemed others had similar experience: backpuffing caused by burning wet wood. In my case, it was always an hour or two into the burn

Yeah, I would get a coating of wet creo on the inside walls of the stove. When the stove finally got hot, and I opened the door, I could see the walls steaming. I think the creo vaporizing contributed to the problem as well.